Originally Posted by HoggWild
Thanks Mazilla! Good info. Hopefully I am able to find the wiring that was part of the old housing or else I'll be visiting the shop to help point it out.
What do you mean by stagger splices and leaving bulges though?
Staggering the splices, when you connect the new wire to the old wire don't splice the two together side by side or you end up with a fat spot in your wiring that looks tacky(in my opinion).
-----splice---- (POS wire)
--------------splice------ (NEG wire)
when you pull those wires through heat shrink(or tape them up or whatever) they will come back together as close to original thickness as possible.
It really is nit-picking, but if you're OCD about that stuff like me it's worth the two seconds of extra effort.
to get to the original wiring harness(and original plug you'll want to use) you need to remove the rear fender to make it easy. The fender comes off with four bolts on top holding the mounting brackets for the seat and then the four bolts on the sides. Grab a thick blanket and lay it across your fuel tank/battery box area before you remove the fender so you can flip it over(there will be wires preventing you from removing 100%) and work on it on top of the blanket. Remove the four(?) bolts holding the license plate bracket in place and underneath are all the wiring harness, trace the one that goes to the old plate light and cut it 2-3" away from the light so you can reuse the light if need be( some wire to splice in the future should the need arise).
Take the connector you cut, go to your bench and splice in the extra length of wire. Go back and plug it back in and reroute as desired securing with zipties(etc) as you go.
If you pay a shop it's going to cost about an hour of labor for the wiring.