My own version of side mount license plate w/ LED - Page 4 - Yamaha Star Stryker Motorcycle Forum
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Old 05-06-2015, 06:00 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by amaskedman View Post
how hard was it to get the axe out and did you have to reapply any grease before putting it back in?
Why take the axle out?
Slot the bracket instead so you only have to loosen the axle.
Check your local laws, in Washington State we're not allowed to use a vertical plate and it IS enforced here.

My set-up...




Similar to this one that another member was making and selling here a long while back but slotted to make it simple to install...

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Old 05-07-2015, 08:15 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrenaline Revolution View Post
Why take the axle out?
Slot the bracket instead so you only have to loosen the axle.
Check your local laws, in Washington State we're not allowed to use a vertical plate and it IS enforced here.

My set-up...



Similar to this one that another member was making and selling here a long while back but slotted to make it simple to install...
Dude the LP frame is Illegal in Texas, nothing can be touching the numbers or letters. You know I have to abide by the law, I cannot give them any excuses to pull me over. I would have to put down my beer to free my hand to put the kickstand down.
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I put my kickstand down with my hand.

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Old 05-07-2015, 08:51 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mikoloe View Post
Dude the LP frame is Illegal in Texas, nothing can be touching the numbers or letters. You know I have to abide by the law, I cannot give them any excuses to pull me over. I would have to put down my beer to free my hand to put the kickstand down.
I haven't been pulled over yet for it but yeah, it touches the number but it also almost covers the expiration month too!
I'm always riding legal with nothing to hide so if I get pulled over for that I'm not too worried that I'd actually get a ticket!
I've been followed a few times but then I catch the cop staring at the bike when he pulls along side!
They usually just give a wave and a smile!

Oh, and I have since changed out those ugly bolts I had it attached with, went to stainless button/Allen head with acorn nuts on the other side.
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:26 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Road 6 Customs is where I got my license plate mount as well (curved vertical). I had a local shop attach it to the axel. I also had them clean up the back-end and it looks really nice! I just recently bought a license plate frame with LEDs built in. I think I understand which wires go to the rear fender, but I am really nervous about cutting wires. I am still a bit unclear as to where I should connect up to. Any thoughts?
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:54 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoggWild View Post
Road 6 Customs is where I got my license plate mount as well (curved vertical). I had a local shop attach it to the axel. I also had them clean up the back-end and it looks really nice! I just recently bought a license plate frame with LEDs built in. I think I understand which wires go to the rear fender, but I am really nervous about cutting wires. I am still a bit unclear as to where I should connect up to. Any thoughts?

Connect it to the harness from the old plate light. Cut off the connector(leave plenty of room, then leave more) and splice in a new length of wire(pos/neg) long enough to reach the plate after routing it discretely. Leave some slack tucked away under the bike so you have extra wire should you need to move the plate somewhere else in the future. Take into consideration swingarm travel.

I sleeved all my wire in black heat shrink tubing for added abrasion resistance and used waterproof connectors on all my splices(like always). To keep it really clean stagger your splices so they do not rest side by side and leave bulges.
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Old 05-28-2015, 01:03 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amaskedman View Post
how hard was it to get the axe out and did you have to reapply any grease before putting it back in?


I took my axle out, it was easy...reading some of the posts here you'd think it was going to be a chore but it took very little effort. I used two floor jacks, jack stands and a 2x4 to support the tire. I also had a random wrench(like a 17mm) and a small length of wood to put between the bike and the wrench to pry the axle out...I didn't want to remove the cobra slip-on, being lazy.

I had never attempted this before.

Having two jacks lets you lift the left/right side independently which makes lining up the holes much easier IMO. The jack stands were there to support the bike while I worked on building my mount.
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:33 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazilla View Post
Connect it to the harness from the old plate light. Cut off the connector(leave plenty of room, then leave more) and splice in a new length of wire(pos/neg) long enough to reach the plate after routing it discretely. Leave some slack tucked away under the bike so you have extra wire should you need to move the plate somewhere else in the future. Take into consideration swingarm travel.

I sleeved all my wire in black heat shrink tubing for added abrasion resistance and used waterproof connectors on all my splices(like always). To keep it really clean stagger your splices so they do not rest side by side and leave bulges.
Thanks Mazilla! Good info. Hopefully I am able to find the wiring that was part of the old housing or else I'll be visiting the shop to help point it out.

What do you mean by stagger splices and leaving bulges though?

- Hogg
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:44 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoggWild View Post
Thanks Mazilla! Good info. Hopefully I am able to find the wiring that was part of the old housing or else I'll be visiting the shop to help point it out.

What do you mean by stagger splices and leaving bulges though?

- Hogg

Staggering the splices, when you connect the new wire to the old wire don't splice the two together side by side or you end up with a fat spot in your wiring that looks tacky(in my opinion).


EX:



-----splice---- (POS wire)
--------------splice------ (NEG wire)

when you pull those wires through heat shrink(or tape them up or whatever) they will come back together as close to original thickness as possible.
It really is nit-picking, but if you're OCD about that stuff like me it's worth the two seconds of extra effort.



to get to the original wiring harness(and original plug you'll want to use) you need to remove the rear fender to make it easy. The fender comes off with four bolts on top holding the mounting brackets for the seat and then the four bolts on the sides. Grab a thick blanket and lay it across your fuel tank/battery box area before you remove the fender so you can flip it over(there will be wires preventing you from removing 100%) and work on it on top of the blanket. Remove the four(?) bolts holding the license plate bracket in place and underneath are all the wiring harness, trace the one that goes to the old plate light and cut it 2-3" away from the light so you can reuse the light if need be( some wire to splice in the future should the need arise).


Take the connector you cut, go to your bench and splice in the extra length of wire. Go back and plug it back in and reroute as desired securing with zipties(etc) as you go.



If you pay a shop it's going to cost about an hour of labor for the wiring.

Last edited by mazilla; 05-28-2015 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 05-30-2015, 10:27 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I used posi-lock-connectors on the wire harness just under the seat. This way I didn't have to cut any wires. It's easy to take out and seal the area like it was never there also.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/383-...HTgaAkcx8P8HAQ

Last edited by dameunbejo; 05-30-2015 at 10:32 PM.
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