[MYSTRYKER]

Hi I am hoping to find someone with same set up as me:

2011 Stryker, Fi2000 PowrPro Tuner, PowrFlo Air Intake System, Cobra Dragsters I have Big City Thunder Quite Baffles thought they would fix the bog in low RPM no solution yet accept unplugging 02 sensor.

Having some trouble digesting this solution, waiting for new one hope it runs as it is intended.

Please provide concrete resolution.

Al

 

[UrbanRage]

I can't provide you a concrete solution but if you want the bike to run as intended then go back to the stock set up..lol...

On a different note, are you talking about the stuttering that happens in second gear around 30 mph? If so, then I can tell you that after unplugging my o2 sensor, the bike runs friggin awesome and the stuttering is gone.

If you are talking about a sluggish feeling in the lower rpms then, I can tell you that when I installed the BCT in my bike, it lost allot of low end torque and the bike didn't pull until the rpm were higher. The loss of power was enough for me to remove the BCTs and install the stock cobra baffles. But I can say they sounded pretty dam good...


I'm not sure if this will answer your question, but hopefully it will help.

 

[MYSTRYKER]

Fi2000 PowrPro Tuner problems

Thanks, buzz glad someones listening.

Al

500 Hundred Beans no Hotdog!!!!!

 

[MYSTRYKER]

500 Hundred Beans no Hotdog!!!!!

Do we all think it's O.K. to pay 500 Hundred Beans and get modified Hotdog!!!!!

 

[ryderjay]

It's just the nature of the way this bike was designed. Yamaha has a history of making high revving engines in their sport bike line up, which transitioned to some of their cruiser, like the Warrior and Stryker.

Yamaha motors like to be revved high, giving them poor manners on city streets. My Yamaha sport bikes all acted up at slow speeds, switched to Kawasaki and problems solved. It comes down to the design. The stock pulley is in my opinion a design flaw from the factory. Nut sure why they choose to change to the 31 tooth. Dropping a tooth in the front will give you more power at lower rpm and steal a little off the top. But you shouldn't be going 130 anyway. The engine being sluggish at low rpm and low speed is not a flaw with aftermarket setups. This is simply how the bike was designed from the factory, much of which is tied to their choice in front pulley size. My bike lugged before mods, still does it but is a tad better. Changing the air fuel mixture and exhaust won't solve a gearing issue.

I understand its frustrating, but imo and experience with motorcycles you are looking in the wrong places for your solution.

 

[Adrenaline Revolution]

Do we all think it's O.K. to pay 500 Hundred Beans and get modified Hotdog!!!!!

I hate this phrase but here goes... "It is what it is"
If you leave the bike stock it will run fine BUT it is not designed to run at slow speeds at low RPMs so it's gonna chug.

If you want to leave the ecu, pipes, and intake stock and you want to get rid of the chug then get a stock fwd pulley for the V Star 1300 which happens to be a 30 tooth versus the 31 tooth that came stock with your Stryker for @ $140 to $180. Chug Mostly gone... acceptable.

If you want performance get the pipes of your choice, I see you choose Cobra dragsters... I'm not familiar with the dragsters so I don't know if they have a cross-over like my Cobra swept pipes.
Without the cross-over you will lose some low end torque and it's harder to make the Cobra Fi2000 work perfectly without some tuning, not sure why but it doesn't seem to like the Vance and Hines pipes for that reason. all of a sudden you notice the hesitation is evident and the chugging is more noticeable because you're running a bit more of a Thoroughbred and the amplified pipes make it more noticeable now.

If you add a Big Air Kit (I see you did with the Power flo, same as me) then you now HAVE to install the Fuel Programmer, I also have the F12000.
Now the chugging is back a little more noticeably and you may end up with a "Sneeze" or hiccup at freeway speed while holding your momentum but slightly rolling on the throttle...

NOW... Unplug the dam O2 sensor and almost all of it magically goes away to the point where you don't give it another thought.

The only difference between your set-up and mine is you have the dragsters and I have the swepts.

Mine, with the O2 unplugged runs AWESOME.
Not sure about your hot dog though???

"AR"

 

[ryderjay]

^ this and drop the gearing by replacing the front pulley since the bike is geared too tall and you'll be good to go.

To add to the O2 sensor thing, the fuel controller we add simply piggy backs the stock ecu. With the O2 sensor feeding information to the ecu still the computer will try to maintain its programmed fuel mapping, basically fighting the aftermarket fuel controllers adjustments. Removing the O2 sensor gives no feedback to the ecu eliminating the data, thus removing conflicts between the ecu and your aftermarket fuel controller.

 

[Adrenaline Revolution]

^ this and drop the gearing by replacing the front pulley since the bike is geared too tall and you'll be good to go.

To add to the O2 sensor thing, the fuel controller we add simply piggy backs the stock ecu. With the O2 sensor feeding information to the ecu still the computer will try to maintain its programmed fuel mapping, basically fighting the aftermarket fuel controllers adjustments. Removing the O2 sensor gives no feedback to the ecu eliminating the data, thus removing conflicts between the ecu and your aftermarket fuel controller.

Exackary! Well said!

 

[MYSTRYKER]

02 Sensor

Thank you both, I appreciate it... as for how it goes here's my Dyno numbers the bike is really quick for a 1300 maybe that's why I'm such a perfectionist at this point.

Stock according to two websites I have researched:

HP:66.27 Torque:71.82 MotoUSA.com

HP:67.20 Torque:73.80 Cycleworld.com

After modifications:

HP:77.99 Torque:82.91
Average Gain:
HP:11.25 Torque:10.10

Thanks again,
Al

 

[mikoloe]

Thank you both, I appreciate it... as for how it goes here's my Dyno numbers the bike is really quick for a 1300 maybe that's why I'm such a perfectionist at this point.

Stock according to two websites I have researched:

HP:66.27 Torque:71.82 MotoUSA.com

HP:67.20 Torque:73.80 Cycleworld.com

After modifications:

HP:77.99 Torque:82.91
Average Gain:
HP:11.25 Torque:10.10

Thanks again,
Al

I could have told you that for the price of a 12 pack. My numbers would have been + or - 1 or 2 but still close enough! Anyone else care to know what your numbers are?

 

[BrettRTR]

I've got a crooked number of bottle or can for you if you can tell me with all that trouble, bother and worry, why guys don't just get their bikes put on a dyno and be done with it?

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App

 

[WoLF2001]

It's just the nature of the way this bike was designed. Yamaha has a history of making high revving engines in their sport bike line up, which transitioned to some of their cruiser, like the Warrior and Stryker.

Yamaha motors like to be revved high, giving them poor manners on city streets. My Yamaha sport bikes all acted up at slow speeds, switched to Kawasaki and problems solved. It comes down to the design. The stock pulley is in my opinion a design flaw from the factory. Nut sure why they choose to change to the 31 tooth. Dropping a tooth in the front will give you more power at lower rpm and steal a little off the top. But you shouldn't be going 130 anyway. The engine being sluggish at low rpm and low speed is not a flaw with aftermarket setups. This is simply how the bike was designed from the factory, much of which is tied to their choice in front pulley size. My bike lugged before mods, still does it but is a tad better. Changing the air fuel mixture and exhaust won't solve a gearing issue.

I understand its frustrating, but imo and experience with motorcycles you are looking in the wrong places for your solution.

I have to agree with you on this one..the low end slugging is driving me crazy..I hate it.

 

[J4patrice]

I have to agree with you on this one..the low end slugging is driving me crazy..I hate it.

You really need to do the 30 tooth pulley. I am so happy with the way mine is now after making this swap. :nod: :thumb:

 

[11Stryker]

YUPYUP What she said!

 

[ryderjay]

You really need to do the 30 tooth pulley. I am so happy with the way mine is now after making this swap. :nod: :thumb:

My 30t pulley is still the the box I need to get on that lol I need to find my 12 o'clock labs speedo healer too.... It's somewhere in my house.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[teh_shadster]

I have no idea how that torque/ HP stuff works. I ride for looks, but im starting to learn more the longer I have a bike. If you want to help me out I would appreciate it.

 

[toby]

The Dragsters don't have a crossover?? nor even an 02 bung on one pipe?? not listed for the Stryker anyway, so check out what setup youi have?? if that's the case then you are not running a closed loop system. if it has the 02 in one pipe then unplug it.. Best advise is take it to a shop and have it tuned. You can't go wrong there???