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I had my 8k service done at my local dealership yesterday. This is one of the few dealerships in the area that has their shop opened up so you can watch the work being done. The technician was great as he sat and talked with me for about 10-15 minutes after the service going over what he did, giving me suggestions on things, and just educating me in general. One of the topics that I thought I would share here is oil filters. I changed my own oil/filter before I took it in for service as I enjoy doing that myself. He said any good motorcycle grade oil is fine to use, and also unlike the manual recommends I should definitely change the filter every time I do the oil. He noticed that I used an aftermarket oil filter and said I really shouldn’t use anything other than a Yamaha OEM filter. I told him that I crossed referenced the part #’s with a list I got from this forum. He said *and I agree* that you have to be careful with things you read on forums. He mentioned that he gets bikes coming in constantly that are messed up because the owner got their information from a forum. He said when he was at MMI they tore apart many many filters both aftermarket and OEM. He said 100% of the time the OEM filters were both better designed and constructed than even the most expensive aftermarket filters *I have a friend who went to WyoTech several years ago and he told me the same thing*. He said you will never find a better motorcycle oil filter that the OE ones period, whether it be Yamaha, Kawasaki, Honda, or whatever. He said just because an aftermarket filter will thread on and “fit” doesn’t mean it’s going to properly work. He mentioned how motorcycles require a specific oil filter pressure relief valve on the filter in order for the filter to work for a specific engine. He mentioned how you can cross-reference a Yamaha filter to an aftermarket one and the aftermarket one will show to work for 5 different Yamahas…but all 5 of those different bikes require 5 different Yamaha OE filters because of the relief valve requirements. He said if the relief valve tension isn’t designed correctly for the specific engine then it won’t operate properly and you could get zero oil filtration…which obviously isn’t a good thing. He also noticed that I had oil weeping from my drain plug because I didn’t replace the crush washer. He said that those crush washers will keep you from over tightening and stripping the threads of the case…plus it’ll weep oil if you don’t replace it. He said they’re only like $.30

I guess the overall theme of this thread is that common since should always prevail when reading on here or any forum for that matter. Just because it’s written on a forum doesn’t always mean it’s written in stone. I, like many on here have been riding and wrenching for years but I’m no expert.
 

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Good write up.. I completely agree.. BTW im a wyotech grad too. I look at it as Oil and filter no mater what is fairly cheap. even the factory oil and filter really isn't that expensive. And not the area I'd want to pinch saving money anyway. If it cost me a few extra dollars to use yamaha lube and a OE filter so be it. But when the engine lets go and its in for repair work they wont be able to question anything because I'm using factory recommended parts.
 

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Yosemite said:
Good write up.. I completely agree.. BTW im a wyotech grad too. I look at it as Oil and filter no mater what is fairly cheap. even the factory oil and filter really isn't that expensive. And not the area I'd want to pinch saving money anyway. If it cost me a few extra dollars to use yamaha lube and a OE filter so be it. But when the engine lets go and its in for repair work they wont be able to question anything because I'm using factory recommended parts.
I agree. He also touched on motorcycle oil briefly. He said the only difference between a quality conventional motorcycle oil VS synthetic is the synthetic will allow you to go longer in-between oil changes. He said it’s a myth that synthetic will add power, make it run cooler, or extend the life to the engine. He said if you run conventional oil and change it when you’re supposed to the engine will last just as long as it would with synthetic.
 

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Well, I change my own oil too and use the Yamaha filter. Wish I could buy the crush washer for $.30. They sell them here for $2.00 and I cant find them anywhere else. Believe me, I've tried. I'd love to watch them do the service work cause I'm not sure I trust them but at this point I'd rather ride than do the maintenance. This bike is much more sophisticated than my Harley Shovelhead and I don't think I want to attempt the valve adjustment or fuel injector syncronozation. Other than that, I think I'm OK with my own maintenance. So how did you approach them to let you watch the service work being done? Most shops post a sign that says, Labor $85/hr ...$125/hr if you watch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
canyon1 said:
Well, I change my own oil too and use the Yamaha filter. Wish I could buy the crush washer for $.30. They sell them here for $2.00 and I cant find them anywhere else. Believe me, I've tried. I'd love to watch them do the service work cause I'm not sure I trust them but at this point I'd rather ride than do the maintenance. This bike is much more sophisticated than my Harley Shovelhead and I don't think I want to attempt the valve adjustment or fuel injector syncronozation. Other than that, I think I'm OK with my own maintenance. So how did you approach them to let you watch the service work being done? Most shops post a sign that says, Labor $85/hr ...$125/hr if you watch.
wow I've never seen a sign like that! I just called around different shops asking for pricing and if I'd be able to watch the work being done. This dealership has a half-wall glass partition next to the service counter that gives a full view of the shop. They have several tables and bar-stools you can sit on while you watch.
 

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Never heard of not changing the oil filter when changing oil. Would that just be a cost thing?
 

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skwerlee said:
Yosemite said:
Good write up.. I completely agree.. BTW im a wyotech grad too. I look at it as Oil and filter no mater what is fairly cheap. even the factory oil and filter really isn't that expensive. And not the area I'd want to pinch saving money anyway. If it cost me a few extra dollars to use yamaha lube and a OE filter so be it. But when the engine lets go and its in for repair work they wont be able to question anything because I'm using factory recommended parts.
I agree. He also touched on motorcycle oil briefly. He said the only difference between a quality conventional motorcycle oil VS synthetic is the synthetic will allow you to go longer in-between oil changes. He said it’s a myth that synthetic will add power, make it run cooler, or extend the life to the engine. He said if you run conventional oil and change it when you’re supposed to the engine will last just as long as it would with synthetic.



I've been saying that since day on on here when alot of people was saying to run amsoil that its so great blah blah blah. ;D
 

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dreadly said:
Never heard of not changing the oil filter when changing oil. Would that just be a cost thing?
In the service manual it states to change oil every 4k and oil filter every 8k. I cant see anyone following it but I guess if you did that you would still be with in Yamaha's guidelines and wouldn't void the warranty.
 

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dreadly said:
Never heard of not changing the oil filter when changing oil. Would that just be a cost thing?

Not really a cost thing the first service you do you should replace the oil filter because it is catching all the shavings of the motor from break in. After that the oil filters are good for atleast 2 oil changes. I change mine everytime I change my oil but it doesn't have to be especially after the motor has been broke in and is not a high mileage vehicle. You don't need to make a special trip to get a oil filter if you changed it the last time you changed the oil.
 

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Stryker said:
dreadly said:
Never heard of not changing the oil filter when changing oil. Would that just be a cost thing?

Not really a cost thing the first service you do you should replace the oil filter because it is catching all the shavings of the motor from break in. After that the oil filters are good for atleast 2 oil changes. I change mine everytime I change my oil but it doesn't have to be especially after the motor has been broke in and is not a high mileage vehicle. You don't need to make a special trip to get a oil filter if you changed it the last time you changed the oil.
hmmm interesting. Something new I've learned - this day is now complete - bring on the beer ;D
 

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Stryker said:
dreadly said:
Never heard of not changing the oil filter when changing oil. Would that just be a cost thing?

Not really a cost thing the first service you do you should replace the oil filter because it is catching all the shavings of the motor from break in. After that the oil filters are good for atleast 2 oil changes. I change mine everytime I change my oil but it doesn't have to be especially after the motor has been broke in and is not a high mileage vehicle. You don't need to make a special trip to get a oil filter if you changed it the last time you changed the oil.
I'm sorry but I have to disagree here. If there were shavings in the engine it wouldn't make it around the block before the first oil change. I worked for Chrysler at the engine plant. The engines were washed and rewashed every time different machining went on. And test run, all of them, every day.
 

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SmokenJOE said:
Stryker said:
dreadly said:
Never heard of not changing the oil filter when changing oil. Would that just be a cost thing?

Not really a cost thing the first service you do you should replace the oil filter because it is catching all the shavings of the motor from break in. After that the oil filters are good for atleast 2 oil changes. I change mine everytime I change my oil but it doesn't have to be especially after the motor has been broke in and is not a high mileage vehicle. You don't need to make a special trip to get a oil filter if you changed it the last time you changed the oil.
I'm sorry but I have to disagree here. If there were shavings in the engine it wouldn't make it around the block before the first oil change. I worked for Chrysler at the engine plant. The engines were washed and rewashed every time different machining went on. And test run, all of them, every day.
I can't help myself Smoken! You said Chrysler! No Wonder! GM would be no problem! LOL Just poken at ya!!
 

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Thanks for the write-up Skwerlee. I wouldn't even think of not changing the filter when I change my oil but I never new the OEM filters mattered that much. For the few extra bucks it's a no-brainer going forward. Thanks again for taking the time to share. You earn a gold star for the day...or at least an ice cold beer!
 
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