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Well I told Cobra and V&H that if they want to send me to Vegas (cobra) or wherever V&H does their testing... I'd be willing to let them check my bike out... but they didn't want to cover my expenses... brassturds!

I really think it comes down to one thing with the Strykers... Assembly line tolerances..

That is why two people running the same exact setup can have two completely different results. That is the only explanation that makes any sense to me.

i.e. 11Stryker got his bike at the beginning of the assembly line set... very tight tolerances... Me... I got mine towards the very end... just before the spec's are out of the far line of tolerances... so a bit sloppy but still "within" spec's.

Well in the real world... it makes a huge difference when modding...

*shrugs*

then for me... I had to have an exhaust with a crossover... I never had the chance to test a different tuner... to see if they would have or would not have worked any better with my old V&H twin staggered...

I'm just happy that I FINALLY have my bike performing like it should... ! (plus those tri-pro's sound just as bad arse as the V&H... maybe not quite as LOUD... but d a m n good enough for me)
 

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My setup:
Custom pipes, no baffles
Cobra Powerflow
Cobra FI2000R

I have no problems.

Start with the easiest first:
1. Check all vacuum lines and air ports for disconnected hoeses leaks. Even a small leak on a FI sysem running a MAF sensor will cause big problems (I know, I tune Subarus).
2. Make sure the exhaust connections pre o2 sensor are not leaking. Not detrimental on these bikes, but I have seen it cause. It all has to due with air loss between the MAF and o2.
3. Put the stock intake back on and see what the effects are with the tuner and exhaust still installed.
4. Put the stock exhaust on and see what the effects are with the tuner and air system on.
5. Try a different tuner.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
From what I was told by Cobra is that do not have to connect the auto tuner to the O2 sensor and it would work just fine. I'm confused about that as well. If it doesn't read the O2, how does it know how to adjust? Maybe someone from Cobra will see this and comment. Still, my bike sputters and I'm a little reluctant to just go buy a new worthless device unless I can know for sure it'll take care of the issue. Right now I'm leaning on the EJK... Just want confirmation that someone has a 2012 with the V&H staggered and cobra powerflo working with only that and the EJK without having it timed or dyno'd.
 
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The only time that the o2 sensor is used is during idle or cruise (closed-loop).

See paragraphs 4 & 5, under Automotive Applications in this article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor

And, it has been my experience that the Cobra Autotune does indeed use the o2 sensor under closed-loop conditions. The first sentence of paragraph 5 explains why the o2 sensor is ignored when the engine is under load. I'm fairly sure that in the massive Autotune thread there is a link that explains the technical aspects of how the Cobra unit operates.
 

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The only time that the o2 sensor is used is during idle or cruise (closed-loop).

See paragraphs 4 & 5, under Automotive Applications in this article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor

And, it has been my experience that the Cobra Autotune does indeed use the o2 sensor under closed-loop conditions. The first sentence of paragraph 5 explains why the o2 sensor is ignored when the engine is under load. I'm fairly sure that in the massive Autotune thread there is a link that explains the technical aspects of how the Cobra unit operates.
Understood, but it still doesn't make sense. I guess I could read that entire thread, but I don't have an auto tune, so I don't know if it's of any use to me other than knowing how it actually functions.
At cruise, it's supposed to adjust the fuel/air mixture. But with some being told to unplug the o2 sensor on their auto tunes, what is the auto tune relying on to make it's adjustments from? There has to be some form of feedback to the controller for it to function. With or without the o2, the controller is making adjustments and from what?
Interesting stuff. Thanks for the link thecomputerguy
 

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Found this:
This unit measures the rate of acceleration of the bikes crank as read from the crank position sensor which uses the bikes crank as a defacto dyno there-by negating the need for o2 sensors or a sniffer. It adjusts to the most efficient A/F ratio based on that data.
It must have a stock table listed for the bike and draws it's adjustments from the table.
The strategy for closed-loop operation is different as fuel requirements under different climatic and altitude differences can be as much as 30%. Unless the base map is constructed for the particular application, the O2 feedback mechanism will not work properly.
Here's some more reading if you want
 
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Understood, but it still doesn't make sense. I guess I could read that entire thread, but I don't have an auto tune, so I don't know if it's of any use to me other than knowing how it actually functions.
At cruise, it's supposed to adjust the fuel/air mixture. But with some being told to unplug the o2 sensor on their auto tunes, what is the auto tune relying on to make it's adjustments from? There has to be some form of feedback to the controller for it to function. With or without the o2, the controller is making adjustments and from what?
Interesting stuff. Thanks for the link thecomputerguy
Both cruise and idle are steady state, closed-loop modes. There's not much work for the tuner to do during this mode. Doesn't mean no work, as it could add (or subtract) fuel, but since it is steady state, this should be minimal (and the o2 sensor is doing used to do the calculations in this scenario).

I unplugged my o2 sensor just to see what effect it would have. It ran okay for about 20 miles. I pulled over and reconnected it.
 

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Thanks everyone for the comments folks, very useful stuff. I'm bummed that this didn't work right away, wish I found out about these issues before deciding on the V&H pipes. Love the look/sound and the performance boost from the intake but this is a pain in the neck. I wonder if its the 2012 model stryker that has the most issues?

Basically it looks like I'm out 500 bucks on the AT because Cobra won't acknowledge an issue with V&H pipes on the stryker to where i can get a refund from Dennis Kirk. Whether its due to their lack of A/F range or whatever the case is, sucks that I fell for it.

So a few questions.

1. I've heard a lot about a wide band O2 sensor... where do I get one (can't seem to find it by searching the net)
2. Does anyone have V&H Twin Staggered with Cobra PowerFlo intake and the EJK (only those items) working or is there more needed to get this running right?

Thanks all!
I hav a wide band sensor from KOSO. The thing to remember is that it does not hook plug into the ECU. It runs independently, so basically it will tell you what your A/F ratio is at all times but will not make any adjustments. Great if you want to just know how your A/F ratio is doing or want to make adjustments to your fuel controller. There is a pic of mine in my garage.
 

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I'm trying to see if I'm understanding this correctly and maybe help others. When the motor is in the rpm range that it's using the O2 sensor with the resistor mod it's reading a lean condition where the factory ECM is being tricked to deliver more fuel , with o2 being unplugged causes the ECM to deliver a set amount of fuel at certain RPMs. If I'm correct so far the biggest variables for the unplugged o2 working for some and not others would be a leak somewhere or the air pressure/altitude...at sea level the bike would be running lean and in the mountains it would be running rich. My question that maybe V&H, Cobra or someone who knows more on this is without the cross over pipe could it be that there isn't a good enough concentration of exhaust gases to get a proper reading and or with open pipes the o2 sensor not getting warm enough to operate properly?
 

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From what I was told by Cobra is that do not have to connect the auto tuner to the O2 sensor and it would work just fine. I'm confused about that as well. If it doesn't read the O2, how does it know how to adjust? Maybe someone from Cobra will see this and comment. Still, my bike sputters and I'm a little reluctant to just go buy a new worthless device unless I can know for sure it'll take care of the issue. Right now I'm leaning on the EJK... Just want confirmation that someone has a 2012 with the V&H staggered and cobra powerflo working with only that and the EJK without having it timed or dyno'd.

Mine is a 2013 with V&H staggered and the powerflo with the EJK tuner and the O2 sensor unplugged. I have it set now at the factory settings and I am having zero issues. I do get minimul back fire at hard decel but that is it.
 

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Fellow Styker riders,

I just upgraded my pipes to V&H Twin slash staggared, upgraded the intake to the Cobra PowerFlo, and added the Cobra FI2000 AT.

Now my bike sputters and cuts out when maintaining a lower RPM (typically in the lower gears 1st, 2nd & 3rd). I've adjusted the AutoTuner to add and subract fuel and the problem persists. I do sort of hear a "pst" sound when it cuts out. Almost like a short is occuring. Anyone have this problem? This didn't happen when all was OEM configuration.

Corbra replaced the circuit board for the FI2000 and that didn't help so I'm thinking that is not the issue.

All suggestions are welcome.

Cheers!
I had the same problem with just the V&H staggered pipes. I had no other aftermarket mods on the bike. 1st and 2nd would stutter, and feel very sluggish. So after reading many posts I decided to go with the cobra Fi2000cl fuel injection module and a k&n air filter. I just received these parts today and it only took 45min to install both.
I can say that I am very happy with this purchase. I immediately noticed a better response with throttle control and how much smoother it is, I also noticed more power and torque and the main problem is gone. I have not noticed any decel popping either but I have not been able to go 60 mph yet, as I don't have enough time. But I will let you all know if this has stopped completely. I do expect there to be some popping as this is normal.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Update to this original post. I added the 30t pulley, the issue is better but not gone. Still seems sluggish at times and more powerful at other times. Next move is the EJK. if that doesn't work, then different pipes... what a waste of time and money. If the EJK fixes the issue, I'll post a suggested configuration when using V&H twin/staggered with settings on the EJK.
 

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Update to this original post. I added the 30t pulley, the issue is better but not gone. Still seems sluggish at times and more powerful at other times. Next move is the EJK. if that doesn't work, then different pipes... what a waste of time and money. If the EJK fixes the issue, I'll post a suggested configuration when using V&H twin/staggered with settings on the EJK.
yeah all you really achieved with the 30t pulley was move it to a lower speed by adjusting the gearing of the bike. takes some work but once you get everything working right this bike is great

Sent from my Galaxy S5.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Here is an update... First of all my bike is running great now. The 30t pulley was a waste of time/$$$. I see no diff other than the speedometer is now off by 5MPH (reads 65MPG / actual 60MPH). There is still a lot of play in the gears still when you decel then accel quickly. I was told and hoping the 30t would fix that but it didn't. Bad posts on this topic out there, so hopefully before considering this you've seen my post here.

Second and most important is that the EJK is what ultimately resolved my sputter issue. At factory settings I took it to check it out and couldn't get it to sputter if I tried (which I did unsuccessfully in every gear). I've made a few adjustments to factory for personal preference but factory would've worked great too (probably save me on MPG)

My adjustments were 3 clicks on the "+" Green making it 3... & 2 clicks on the "+" Yellow making it 5... red is still set at default of .5 and I haven't had any issues at full throttle so I'm leaving it. Runs fantastic right now with a lot of power (raced and won a few times already :).

- 2012 Stryker, V&N Twin/Staggered, Cobra PowerFlo intake, EJK Gen3
 

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I was told and hoping the 30t would fix that but it didn't. Bad posts on this topic out there, so hopefully before considering this you've seen my post here.
Well that make 1 against(You) and at least 50 for the 30T mod. You lose buddy!:tsk:
 

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The 30t pulley simply changes the final drive ratio. By increasing the ratio between front and rear pulley you will increase your torque a bit, but lose some mph on the top end. It will also force you to adjust your shift points in each gear. The reason people love this mod is because of town cruising. This bike doesn't like to chug along, by changing the gearing the engine isn't stuck in limbo between 2nd and 3rd while in town. This mod would never fix fueling issues and I believe you misunderstood the use of "chugging" by forum members when reading about the 30t mod.

My point is the 30t pulley swap did more than offset your speedo. Most sportbike riders adjust their gearing by changing a combination of front and rear sprockets (or just one of them) When I raced supersport typically I would drop a tooth in the front and add two in the rear, but it also depended on the bike. The ZX6R I raced I only dropped a tooth in the front.

As for the EJK, your Yellow fuel seems high IMO. But I agree that the EJK is an excellent product. Best route would be PCV, but that is a lot of cash for a cruiser lol

Sent from my Galaxy S5.
 

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You think? LOL
I would tend to agree with the statement. As well as it being a learning curve even with it being tuned on a dyno.
in my motorcycling I used powercommander to get every HP and ft-lb of torque out of my race bikes. That's what they are best at, but for a cruiser (and this is just my point of view) there is no need to spend the money on the PCV when other less expensive products will get the bike running properly. obviously there are people who want to drag race, or tinker with fuel maps, or just like the idea of a custom tuned fuel map. that's cool, enjoy it and have fun with it. for me personally I just want my bike to run properly with the modifications on it, so the EJK not only delivers this, but cost me $175 to do it lol

Sent from my Galaxy S5.
 

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in my motorcycling I used powercommander to get every HP and ft-lb of torque out of my race bikes. That's what they are best at, but for a cruiser (and this is just my point of view) there is no need to spend the money on the PCV when other less expensive products will get the bike running properly. obviously there are people who want to drag race, or tinker with fuel maps, or just like the idea of a custom tuned fuel map. that's cool, enjoy it and have fun with it. for me personally I just want my bike to run properly with the modifications on it, so the EJK not only delivers this, but cost me $175 to do it lol

Sent from my Galaxy S5.
Now this is giving me ship! your exactly right. I did the PCV cause i didnt know any better. It was b4 I found this site. IF I could do it all over again....EJK son....
 
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