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This is the only time I will probably ever agree with Miko. If I were doing it all over again I would have started with the EJK.
 

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...and this is why I LOVE this forum. Don't post much but read a LOT. Happy to report I never bothered with the Cobra (like I planned) and finally jumped on the EJK myself.
 

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With most tuners, you would want the o2 sensor either unplugged or altered in some form so it's not sending a signal to your factory control module. You adjust your fuel pots or map to suit the bike and you don't want the onboard control making changes to it on the fly. The PCV comes with a o2 sensor cord that disables the sensor.
The Cobra auto tuner you would think would need the o2 sensor plugged in and working without restriction, it's supposed to sniff and adjust based on what is coming out. But some run with it and other's without it hooked up.
It seems odd that there is no consistency with what works with each tuner in every application on the same bike. Two people running exactly the same set up with different results. Some people run the tuner and o2 sensor hooked up and runs fine, others have it disconnected and runs fine, then the o2 resistor mod works for some.

The only logical reason, and the key point is, they are NOT the same bike. There probably is enough differences in tolerances in internal parts after break-in-wear that each bike runs slightly different.:wink:

My 2011 feels just a bit slower at first acceleration than my wife's 2013 but hers starts dyeing off as it gets closer to red-line where mine pulls harder at mid to high rpm all the way to rev limiter. Unless they made alterations in fuel mapping in the different years their is not much else it could bee???
 

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The only logical reason, and the key point is, they are NOT the same bike. There probably is enough differences in tolerances in internal parts after break-in-wear that each bike runs slightly different.:wink:

My 2011 feels just a bit slower at first acceleration than my wife's 2013 but hers starts dyeing off as it gets closer to red-line where mine pulls harder at mid to high rpm all the way to rev limiter. Unless they made alterations in fuel mapping in the different years their is not much else it could bee???
while there are tolerances in the machining of parts, I think people tend to put a little too much weight on it. choice in performance parts, combination of parts, elevation, location, all play larger roles in how the vehicle performs. Yamaha did change the ECU in our bike (my bike's ECU was reflashed prior to delivery to me, however I do not remember when they said it was released and my bike is a 2011 so it could be any year)

changing the front pulley will make a noticeable difference in where you're power begins and starts to fade off. changing the suspension geometry can effect your bikes acceleration also. there are a lot of factors which effect performance greater than machining tolerances.

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The only logical reason, and the key point is, they are NOT the same bike. There probably is enough differences in tolerances in internal parts after break-in-wear that each bike runs slightly different.:wink:

My 2011 feels just a bit slower at first acceleration than my wife's 2013 but hers starts dyeing off as it gets closer to red-line where mine pulls harder at mid to high rpm all the way to rev limiter. Unless they made alterations in fuel mapping in the different years their is not much else it could bee???
That definitely could be true about the tolerances. Something has to be different, whether it's tolerances or factory tuned for specific regions (to assist with elevation, temp and humidity), or different ECM software revisions. Who knows, but they sure all seem to act like they have a mind of their own.
My statement about the o2 sensor being eliminated with the cord supplied with the kit was incorrect. I was told that by the guy using the dyno. But right from PowerCommander they state it's an o2 optimizer. It is meant to control the cruise circuit to achieve 13.6:1 AFR. Without a wideband o2 sensor I don't know how it's achieved using their little black box.
 

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This is the only time I will probably ever agree with Miko. If I were doing it all over again I would have started with the EJK.
+1!!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
My point is the 30t pulley swap did more than offset your speedo. Most sportbike riders adjust their gearing by changing a combination of front and rear sprockets (or just one of them) When I raced supersport typically I would drop a tooth in the front and add two in the rear, but it also depended on the bike. The ZX6R I raced I only dropped a tooth in the front.

As for the EJK, your Yellow fuel seems high IMO. But I agree that the EJK is an excellent product. Best route would be PCV, but that is a lot of cash for a cruiser lol

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I was refering to the play in decel/accel when I said bad posts on the 30t fix. I thought that would tighten that up but it didn't.

As fore the EJK, I did adjust my yellow back down after I noticed my gas mileage went to pot. I have it at 4 now and upped red to 2. I feel like I lost some acceleration power in the higher gears, at least that's what I noticed, but if I'm going to race then I'd just adjust it back up to 5 and take the mileage hit.

Do you know if the 30t pulley affects the odometer on the bike? I wouldn't think so but asking anyway.
 

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I was refering to the play in decel/accel when I said bad posts on the 30t fix. I thought that would tighten that up but it didn't.

As fore the EJK, I did adjust my yellow back down after I noticed my gas mileage went to pot. I have it at 4 now and upped red to 2. I feel like I lost some acceleration power in the higher gears, at least that's what I noticed, but if I'm going to race then I'd just adjust it back up to 5 and take the mileage hit.

Do you know if the 30t pulley affects the odometer on the bike? I wouldn't think so but asking anyway.
yes it does. speed and milage (odo) are effected since the shaft rotation is altered by changing to a smaller pulley

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while there are tolerances in the machining of parts, I think people tend to put a little too much weight on it. choice in performance parts, combination of parts, elevation, location, all play larger roles in how the vehicle performs. Yamaha did change the ECU in our bike (my bike's ECU was reflashed prior to delivery to me, however I do not remember when they said it was released and my bike is a 2011 so it could be any year)

changing the front pulley will make a noticeable difference in where you're power begins and starts to fade off. changing the suspension geometry can effect your bikes acceleration also. there are a lot of factors which effect performance greater than machining tolerances.

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So what was the change from previous to yours?

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Changing to larger tire also affects performance, mileage, Odometer.
 

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Anyone know the exact difference +/- the 30tooth has on the odometer? Wouldn't it be reading less than what we are actually traveling? i.e. you travel 100 miles but the odometer /trip meter reads 97 or some such?

then that is offset by the 240 tire.... a little minus here... a bit of plus there....

Then it would also make a slight change in your MPG calculations as well. (very slightly)
 

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So what was the change from previous to yours?

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they didnt say, and at the time I just wanted the bike (had a hard time with RMV etc.) The tech just said they performed a ECU flash update that was posted, did their pre delivery checklist, and asked if I had any questions regarding operation.

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Anyone know the exact difference +/- the 30tooth has on the odometer? Wouldn't it be reading less than what we are actually traveling? i.e. you travel 100 miles but the odometer /trip meter reads 97 or some such?

then that is offset by the 240 tire.... a little minus here... a bit of plus there....

Then it would also make a slight change in your MPG calculations as well. (very slightly)
it adversely effects your odo. your bike will probably read ~4 - 5 mph off. let's say you are traveling at an indicated 60mph you will actually be going about 56mph, meaning you will rack up more mileage than you have actually traveled

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it adversely effects your odo. your bike will probably read ~4 - 5 mph off. let's say you are traveling at an indicated 60mph you will actually be going about 56mph, meaning you will rack up more mileage than you have actually traveled

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with the 30tooth and having the stock 210 I ran 5-7 mph faster than what I really was. With the 240 on I only run 3mph faster.

So, that would mean that for every "63" miles on my odometer I really have only traveled 60. So, @ 126 miles -('bout fill up time) I'm really at 120 miles... meaning I'm actually getting worse MPG than what I think I am -
 

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Mine is 5mph off with the factory tire and front pulley.

it adversely effects your odo. your bike will probably read ~4 - 5 mph off. let's say you are traveling at an indicated 60mph you will actually be going about 56mph, meaning you will rack up more mileage than you have actually traveled

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Yes, the pulley change changes the rpm in every gear to a higher reading, thus a higher reading on the speedo odom. It also changes the throttle position sensor reading to a higher %, giving more fuel for the higher rpm.
The pulley change, however, does nothing to change the fuel mixture. If you have a A/F mix problem at a given speed or rpm then it wont go away by changing the pulley. You have simply masked the problem by avoiding that spot where the problem is, because the rpms rev faster, come down faster and throttle is open more.

I guarantee you that if your motor has a sputter in it at almost throttle off to off position changing the pulley wont fix that.

If you put your bike in neutral and open the throttle a bit then slowly let off until idle and it flutters, misses or pops you have a fuel mix problem somewhere between the transition from closed loop 0-2 mode and open loop mode. There is other possibilities too, like bad spark plug, throttle body synch, leaky exhaust gasket etc, non of these problems can be fixed by changing the pulley.
 

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Let me also add that people that say ride it hard and the problem is solved.
They are correct in a sense. Closed Loop systems usually operate at low throttle openings (below 20%) and below 50 to 60% of max RPM. Above those throttle and RPM points the system goes back to Open Loop operation, running off the fuel maps stored in the ECU, or in the case with aftermarket programmers that use the o2 in line.

But they are incorrect at assuming the problem is fixed.

And again changing to the 30 tooth pulley simply allows or forces you to ride at higher rpm and % of throttle opening.:wink:
Unplugging or adding tolerance to the closed loop o2 mode usually needs changing of mapping on aftermarket programmers to compensate at those % of throttle and rpm.
 

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toby;549794 Unplugging or adding tolerance to the closed loop o2 mode usually needs changing of mapping on aftermarket programmers to compensate at those % of throttle and rpm.[/QUOTE said:

Unless you have a properly operating autotuner that will correct for it.
 

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Unless you have a properly operating autotuner that will correct for it.
That's why I suggest, like for example someone had a problem and Cobra sent him a new board for the Auto tuner and it didn't fix the problem, that they start looking in other areas for the problem like out of synch throttle body, or something as simple as a bad plug etc. etc.
 
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