[usmarinedelta]

I don't know if many of you would know what a shear bolt is, but it's pretty much a bolt on top of a bolt, when certain torque is reached the top bolt snaps off leaving the bottom bolt rounded. It's a security feature so thieves can't disassemble your ignition.

I'm trying to remove the ignition to get the top triple tree powder coated. So far I've put a slit using a dermel and an impact screw driver without luck. I'm going to try an E-Z out extractor, if worse comes to worse I'm thinking about drilling it out and retapping after powder coat. Any ideas?

 

[ROADKILL]

You've pretty much answered your own question, except I would have went with the ez-out first after the bolt broke. Not a whole lot of options in a case like that.

 

[SmokenJoe]

I went and looked at mine and I see what you are referring to.
Might want to try a center punch at an angle to break them loose. I can't find the torque setting for that either. But I would think a BFH and a good center punch would break it loose.

 

[usmarinedelta]

You've pretty much answered your own question, except I would have went with the ez-out first after the bolt broke. Not a whole lot of options in a case like that.

I didn't break the bolt, the bolt comes from the factory broken without a head. Google "sheard bolt". If an e-z out is one of those reverse threaded drill bits, I'm going to try it again, I think lock tite might be on the threads from the factory making it more difficult to remove.

Thanks Joe, I don't know if that will work as the surface is smooth and getting a tap without it sliding will be hard.

 

[mikey76]

If the bolt comes without the head from the factory, then its probably considered a non servicable item, and it may have threadlicker applied to it from the factory. Most thread locker needs to be heated with a torch in order to melt/break the bond. Unfortunately if you heat the part the coating will be ruined and if you are unable to remove it for coating then its going to look bad.

 

[usmarinedelta]

Update, I gave up.

The extractors kept on breaking and drilling through a hardened bolt was a pain and wouldn't go far.

 

[ROUGH27]

I discovered exactly what you talking about. I'm just wanting to relocated my ignition. Think I may saw's all it from the side and just sand it smooth for a paint touchup after.

 

[11Stryker]

You will need a solid Carbide bit. Very expensive though. Around 35.00 depending on size. We use them in my business everyday to remove broken bolts and studs.

 

[J & J Speed Shop]

You will need a solid Carbide bit. Very expensive though. Around 35.00 depending on size. We use them in my business everyday to remove broken bolts and studs.

True and they cut like butter. If they are hard to find locally you can try McMaster Carr online

 

[SmokenJoe]

I would try welding a nut on them. Then turn it out.

 

[johnnyelp]

update; resolved this issue.

Came to this thread via google when I was faced with the same problem.

Tried the dremel cut slit and hole punch to turn the bolt; wasn't moving at all.

Took the triple tree off bike; in vise; good drill and drill bits, starting small, going to a few mm off size of bolt head;
drilled out within a couple of minutes.

pulled off ignition barrel mechanism; bolts left had 30mm of thread showing; backed these out with the drill locked onto them.

Easy fix after screwing around like a dick for ages!

 

[sscottab]

i run across these bolts all the time at work i use a small chisel and a hammer at a angle to move them and then a small pair of pliers when they are out enough