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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright I removed my baffles today. After much reading and concern over how hard people were saying it is I went ahead and did it. It wasn't that bad (in my opinion). Here is what I did and perhaps it can help...

1. If you haven't already drilled holes in the outer baffle plate drill 8- 1/2" holes around the exhaust outlet. Make it easy on yourself and use a pilot bit and a center punch.

2. Using a step drill cutter bit make each hole larger but not big enough to cut into the chrome tip of the exhaust.

3. I found that the metal of the plate is soft enough to cut with wire snips. Snip the metal that is left between each hole.

4. Now the baffle should be able to be moved side to side easily. Get a 12" drill bit extension. If you shine a flashlight inside of the exhaust pipe you should see the other baffle plate. Look closely and there is a ridge of metal that sticks out. Drill right below that with your pilot bit (it holds the bit from going too far up.) Drill about 8 pilot holes around the baffle and then use the 1/2" bit to make the holes larger.

5. Use a large cold chisel and a mini hand sledge hammer and cut the metal between each hole. Once the metal is cut the baffle should pull right out of the exhaust pipe.

I found that this took maybe an hour? Pretty easy I thought.

I will be using a dremel tool with a grinding bit to finish out the end of the exhaust. Shouldn't be too bad since the metal is soft.

Hope this helps!
 

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Hey Patrick- Nice writeup, Now wait till ya tackle that Cat Converter Removal!!
 

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I just drilled eight 5/8" holes in each baffle plate, and I think the sound is just below annoyance. (My kid says it's too loud, but what does he know!!) Plus there is no backfire, (there is some nice popping on decel)
 

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Is this ear bleeding loud or just minor annoyance loud?
With Cobra pipes and no baffles, it was ear bleeding loud, but now I am used to it, so it does not bother me
 

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Exactly!
 

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I think that I need to go with the bigger holes in mine, because I went with four 3/8" and four 3/16" in each, and it is much better, but still not that really nice sound that you all are talking about. What about the "punch" down the middle about which I have read in other posts? Do you guys recommend that? Using a punch seems better than a hole saw to me, because that would leave a lot of metal shavings in the exhaust-even after using a magnet..........you are kind of working blindly 8 or 9 inches down the pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think that I need to go with the bigger holes in mine, because I went with four 3/8" and four 3/16" in each, and it is much better, but still not that really nice sound that you all are talking about. What about the "punch" down the middle about which I have read in other posts? Do you guys recommend that? Using a punch seems better than a hole saw to me, because that would leave a lot of metal shavings in the exhaust-even after using a magnet..........you are kind of working blindly 8 or 9 inches down the pipes.

I tried that. 1" hole saw with a 12" extension will do it. It won't go in at first you have to spin the bit a little then it goes it. The problem I found, here again my thoughts, is that either way you look at it the 1302 cc engine is still pushing the exhaust through a 1" pipe. In my opinion that is very small. You could always try punching through the second baffle plate but BE CAREFUL! (I spun a drill bit off inside the pipe leading me to remove the baffles completely)

Good luck in your neighbor annoyance ventures!:tongue::tongue::tongue:
 

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Bringing this post back from the dead but....

I'd like to remove my chrome tips while I attempt this baffle removal, and all I see are welds... Where are these screws located and will removing them require breaking the welds? If so will these mythical screws be able to hold the tips in without the welds?
 

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No screws man not in the factory I've done two sets and best bet is to get a hole saw that goes barely over the baffle (part sticking out of the back) then get a 3 inch hole saw get it dead center and drill out first plate. Then to get the baffle out use a long flat head screw driver and beat be side the baffle and the back baffle plate all the way around it and baffle will just fall out. It may be required to stick the screw driver in baffle and wiggle it around to break welds before beating screw driver in beside it. Not bad once you see how everything is mounted in there.

Taking the top off is really no good done this the first time didn't work out good. Need any help with any of it pm me.


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Well, I started kinda late today, and ran out of daylight. I had already drilled some holes in the back plate, so I started off by drilling more holes. I then cut the metal between the holes with a cold chisel. I wasn't able to clear enough of the back plate to allow me to break the welds by wiggling the baffle around. I'm not sure if I should clear more away, and break the welds first, or just start working on the back plate.

The goal is to remove the front plate, and baffle while leaving the back plate as intact as I can.

I ended up taking off the exhaust thinking it would make it easier to work on the bottom part. Doesn't really make it any easier.

On the plus side, she sounds absolutely mean with no exhaust. WAY to loud when you give it the slightest twist though...
 
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