I'm going to attempt to machine my own bar risers to bring the bars just slightly higher and just slightly back. My question is, How far can the bars be moved before it puts the cables too tight? Has anyone looked into that at all? My plan for the spacers is very simple (simpler is always better) but I'd like to bring the bars as far up / back as I can without causing a safety hazard. Wiring I'm not worried about because I can always gain some extra length somewhere... it's really just the cables. They look like you'd have at least a good 3" or so, but I know that looks can be deceiving.
Bar Riser with factory cables
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Build/machine two sets and sell me one at a reasonable price once you find out how far back and up you can go!
I want to do the same thing.:nod:
I want to do the same thing.:nod:
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+1, My short arms would be happy to have the bars closer to them. :wink:
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If the spacers were machined out of stainless it would be as strong as the stock set-up but if aluminum was used I could see a problem.
a good flat mating surface in steel would be fine though.
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Your TT is aluminum!............not what I'm asking. Is he raising the bars by adding a spacer, or designing a whole new style riser?
The plan (and I haven't really dug into it just yet to ensure it will work) is to machine a cylinder with a drilled / tapped center hole that ran all the way through the spacer. Then I would have a threaded rod that went completely through the spacer and into the bars with some serviceable thread locker (I'm assuming the bars just have a threaded hole in the bottom, but again, I haven't taken anything apart yet to verify). Then I can use a double nut on the other end to tighten the spacer to the bars. Finally, that threaded rod would go through the hole in the triple tree and I would use a nylon or similar lock nut on the bottom to ensure it could not loosen.
Again, this is all in the pre-planning stage so I could be way off on how it is currently setup... If it all did work, I would be using steel and either painting or powder-coating it. I would love to use stainless, but that would get expensive... maybe once I have a final piece and I know for sure it will work... lol.
Again, this is all in the pre-planning stage so I could be way off on how it is currently setup... If it all did work, I would be using steel and either painting or powder-coating it. I would love to use stainless, but that would get expensive... maybe once I have a final piece and I know for sure it will work... lol.
Ok. so then I will just have to thread the spacer onto the bars with some loctite and find a way to tighten (maybe mill a couple flats to be able to use a wrench)... or just put them hand tight since they have no way of coming loose anyways once everything is tightened down. All that means now though is that I either have to raise them by the length of the factory threaded rod (plus some for the new rod) or I'll have to possibly cut down the factory threaded rod to allow them to fit. Either way, I need to figure out how much room I have to work with cables wise before I go too far...
Depending on how this set goes, I'd be willing to make more (once I have the design finalized) but I probably won't market them because I'd like to keep them as cheap as possible for whoever wants them..... which would likely mean I won't make nearly enough on them to be a site vendor; and marketing them on here would not be fair to the vendors that pay their dues. If I wanted to be a full vendor, I'd have to charge more for them...
But either way, I'm hoping to pull the bars off this weekend and get some measurements going and see how things go. Then possibly come into work early on Monday or Tuesday and see what I can't get made up. I'll definitely keep this updated as I progress.
On a side note, for those who have painted / powder-coated their bars, did you have to tape off the ends? I'm assuming you would have to otherwise it would cause the OD of the bars to be larger and could cause fitment issues with the grips / throttle sleeve. While I have the bars off, I'll probably paint them (or coat them depending on what I can get them done for).
But either way, I'm hoping to pull the bars off this weekend and get some measurements going and see how things go. Then possibly come into work early on Monday or Tuesday and see what I can't get made up. I'll definitely keep this updated as I progress.
On a side note, for those who have painted / powder-coated their bars, did you have to tape off the ends? I'm assuming you would have to otherwise it would cause the OD of the bars to be larger and could cause fitment issues with the grips / throttle sleeve. While I have the bars off, I'll probably paint them (or coat them depending on what I can get them done for).
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I have a lathe and mill at the house, so if you do post a schematic I can make some in my "spare" time for those that want them. I just bought my Stryker like 2 weeks ago so I'm not ready to tear into it just yet.
Also, for those that might live close to me (just south of Tacoma, WA) I also have powder coating equipment. I am willing to do work for forum members at no charge.
Also, for those that might live close to me (just south of Tacoma, WA) I also have powder coating equipment. I am willing to do work for forum members at no charge.
I spent about 2 hours 'engineering' the spacers. I have the rough design pretty much nailed down. I am hoping to go into my work tomorrow and see if I can't get a prototype set made up. I was able to get 2.00" max rise before it was putting the clutch cable a little too tight. I also had to re-route the front brake hose from underneath the headlight bracket to above the bracket to give a little extra slack on that. I wish I could have gotten a little more slack in the clutch cable but 2" should be fine. I'll keep you guys posted.
Made a little progress today, but not nearly as much as I had hoped. I was going to just use steel but when I got to work I found a beautiful piece of 316SS sitting in our metal dumpster so I couldn't resist. The downside is that the stainless cuts a LOT slower. I also had to bring it down quite a bit (piece was 2" diameter to start and it has to be cut down to between 1.416" and .600"). I did get the center hole drilled and started to tap it, but I wanted to be 100% sure on the thread before I fully tapped the hole. I'll hopefully make a little more progress on Monday between my lunch break and I may go in a little early.
Sadly, progress will probably end up being a little slower than I was hoping. We got slammed at work this week and have a very tight schedule for this compressor rebuild, so my free time will be very limited. On top of that I have to head out of town Friday - Monday so I won't be able to come in over the weekend. I will make sure to keep this updated as I am able to get things done.
At 2" the clutch cable was just touching the triple tree so I'll probably stick right there so there is no risk of pulling on the cable. There is only one part of my design that I'm personally not 100% about but according to the guys in our machine shop, it should be ok. Basically, the bottom has to be threaded all the way through so that I can thread the spacer onto the bars, but also be able to put a threaded rod in to lock everything down. The OD of a M12x1.25 thread is roughly .465". The ID of the hole in the triple tree is roughly .602". So that will only leave roughly a .068" wall thickness of the metal (with a near perfect machining). Since there is no side load on that part of the spacer and it is simply a 'coupler' in a sense, there should not be any issues. The down side is that it has to be machined almost perfectly in order to maintain that .068" wall throughout.
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Is this anything you are thinking about?
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CHYQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fautomotive%2Fdp%2FB0041PUPN2&ei=zBf4UarQIIOVygGmvICQBA&usg=AFQjCNG-8rFyyxCJrwe5XD4XbOqITbr1wg&sig2=p-gQ84DcSLXrCsh_HNOhww&bvm=bv.49967636,d.aWc&cad=rja
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http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CHYQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fautomotive%2Fdp%2FB0041PUPN2&ei=zBf4UarQIIOVygGmvICQBA&usg=AFQjCNG-8rFyyxCJrwe5XD4XbOqITbr1wg&sig2=p-gQ84DcSLXrCsh_HNOhww&bvm=bv.49967636,d.aWc&cad=rja
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