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I believe you could you use the dual brake setup from a raider, if that is the route you wanted to go. I have heard that the front rims are interchangeable between the two bikes. Besides the rim, calipers and brake lines, you would need to get the T fitting that splits the line to accommodate the additional brake caliper.

I haven't really looked into this thoroughly yet, but it would be a good start... Hope this helps.
 

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I beleive the Raider fork tubes are larger, so you'd have to swap the whole front end if even possible. If you did, you lose the rake that the Stryker trees have and the Raider tubes are shorter (I think) so you'd lose hight as well.
 

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Due to the rake and the fork length, the front brake isnt going to be steller. I am actually very impressed with how they act considering the geometry and all. Has anyone looked at the top of the front brake resevoir...isnt that a brembo B?
 

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From what I have heard, I am all set with L&M for the most part. If anything I would try to see how insanly hard it would be to get a performance front end, IE warrior or R6, R1, with adjustable forks. BUT this bike, although I do huck it into the corners and have litteraly ridden sidewall before, is not supposed to be a track dominating corner carver.
 

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2wheeler said:
although I do huck it into the corners and have litteraly ridden sidewall before, is not supposed to be a track dominating corner carver.
Thats not even possible. I just came from a 636 before I had my Stryker. I'm still teaching myself to stop cornering so hard because I drag my pegs so bad. The back or front tire would be in the air before you could even get close to the side wall.
 

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Christopher said:
2wheeler said:
although I do huck it into the corners and have litteraly ridden sidewall before, is not supposed to be a track dominating corner carver.
Thats not even possible. I just came from a 636 before I had my Stryker. I'm still teaching myself to stop cornering so hard because I drag my pegs so bad. The back or front tire would be in the air before you could even get close to the side wall.
I have had my bike down low in the corners and yes the pegs ar scraping...lol.. but if you look at the tires you can see clearly how far down you are on your tires. I know that mine show wear almost all the way down to the egde of the tire... if I have to put a measurnment I would say about 1/8" from the edge..
 

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I obviously haven't paid close enough attention to my tires. They must flare out more than my sport tires did. I know I was almost dragging my knees on my 636 to kill the little stubbies on the sidewall of the tire.
 

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UrbanRage said:
Christopher said:
2wheeler said:
although I do huck it into the corners and have litteraly ridden sidewall before, is not supposed to be a track dominating corner carver.
Thats not even possible. I just came from a 636 before I had my Stryker. I'm still teaching myself to stop cornering so hard because I drag my pegs so bad. The back or front tire would be in the air before you could even get close to the side wall.
I have had my bike down low in the corners and yes the pegs ar scraping...lol.. but if you look at the tires you can see clearly how far down you are on your tires. I know that mine show wear almost all the way down to the egde of the tire... if I have to put a measurnment I would say about 1/8" from the edge..

Apples and oranges...those tires are made to corner for a bike that is made to corner. you didn't just happen to notice you have about 3/4 of an inch of sidewall on the stryker rear tire compared to the 2 1/2 on your 636...? and how wide is your 636 tire in comparison to the stryker? I have two witnesses that watched me do it and until the temp dropped here I had zero chicken strip on my rear tire.
 

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2wheeler said:
UrbanRage said:
Christopher said:
2wheeler said:
although I do huck it into the corners and have litteraly ridden sidewall before, is not supposed to be a track dominating corner carver.
Thats not even possible. I just came from a 636 before I had my Stryker. I'm still teaching myself to stop cornering so hard because I drag my pegs so bad. The back or front tire would be in the air before you could even get close to the side wall.
I have had my bike down low in the corners and yes the pegs ar scraping...lol.. but if you look at the tires you can see clearly how far down you are on your tires. I know that mine show wear almost all the way down to the egde of the tire... if I have to put a measurnment I would say about 1/8" from the edge..

Apples and oranges...those tires are made to corner for a bike that is made to corner. you didn't just happen to notice you have about 3/4 of an inch of sidewall on the stryker rear tire compared to the 2 1/2 on your 636...? and how wide is your 636 tire in comparison to the stryker? I have two witnesses that watched me do it and until the temp dropped here I had zero chicken strip on my rear tire.
Not to say you did or didnt... but if you rode on the side wall with how short out side wall is your rim would be scraped up and there would be wear marks on your sidewall.. so post pics and prove everyone wrong... also post pics of your pegs... someone on here scraped there exhaust on here and when they leaned over that far it scraped there peg mounts (rigid metal) and it started to unload the suspension... and he didnt say if he wore down on the side wall but im assuming no... now if you went farther than he did you would have exhaust damage if it was on that side and you would have laid down the bike due to the fact you scraped peg mounts/frame really hard and unloaded the suspension back tire would have tried to pass the front... just saying...
 
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