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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks, I took off my rear wheel today and let me say what a pain it is to get the brake bracket and wheel on by yourself while trying to put the axle on. Any who, I noticed that my belt is making a slight squeal at certain speeds, only when I accelerate. I'm thinking I tighten it too tight? The belt is closer to the outside of the pulley, any advice on centering it?

Do I just loosen the axle nuts then loosen the adjusting nuts?
 

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Hey folks, I took off my rear wheel today and let me say what a pain it is to get the brake bracket and wheel on by yourself while trying to put the axle on. Any who, I noticed that my belt is making a slight squeal at certain speeds, only when I accelerate. I'm thinking I tighten it too tight? The belt is closer to the outside of the pulley, any advice on centering it?

Do I just loosen the axle nuts then loosen the adjusting nuts?
Yes. Push up on the belt and use the gauge window on the pulley cover as refernce. When adjusting get the wheel off the ground and spin it. Tighten the side the belt is rubbing on the pulley.
 

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So would I have to loosen the axle nut again? Let's say it's close to the left side, would I tighten up the left side and if I do, do I do anything with the right side? Thanks Joe.
Yes left side and leave right side alone.
Unless it's to tight already.
Then loosen the right side.
As you do this spin the wheel. You will be able to see the belt move over. Small adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Joe. The belt stopped squeeking. I didn't loosen the axle nut, I just tightened the left side but went ahead and did a little on the right as I fear the tire will be slanted.

When people say it should be 7mm-10mm do they mean that from the bottom of the pulley cover or the line starting at the top of the pulley window? Mine is in the middle and is fine.
 

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Thanks Joe. The belt stopped squeeking. I didn't loosen the axle nut, I just tightened the left side but went ahead and did a little on the right as I fear the tire will be slanted.

When people say it should be 7mm-10mm do they mean that from the bottom of the pulley cover or the line starting at the top of the pulley window? Mine is in the middle and is fine.
It's 7-10mm freeplay with 10 pounds of force applied to the bottom. Use one of these to get it correct:

The window has nothing to do with it. Its just a quick reference.

To get it straight, I use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-300-Precision-Stainless/dp/B00004T7SW/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1363810606&sr=8-14&keywords=slide+rule

And measure off the length of the adjuster bolts on either side. There's probably a better way to measure it, but thats what I came up with. It is possible to get it wrong with the built in hash marks; I wouldn't trust them.

Also, when I had issues with squeaking belt I found out the issue was the belt was too loose. I thought it was too tight at first, too, so I loosened it up some and it was so loose it would skip teeth on the pulley. I took it to a mechanic and he adjusted it much tighter than I had thought was right, and all my problems went away.

Moral of the story is, if you're going to do this yourself get the right tools and read the shop manual.
 

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Apparently, or @ least from my experience, it is very hard to get the belt right & adjusted so it rides exactly centered on the pulley. on my 600 mi. first service when I got it back from the dlr, A "Pro Star" Yamaha srvc dlr, it was wrong & made noises esp. on low speed turns, I returned to the dlr thinking it was too tight, they supposedly ck'd it & said all was O.K. but it wasn't & 2 days later I took it to another dlr,they rode it & said something was wrong. the belt/axle adj. was off & it was riding towards the left side on the pulley. Then @ my 4K srvc the original dlr did it as they wanted to make up for screwing up the 600mi. srvc on belt & did it for free! but similar problem again so took it to the other dlr & it turns out that not only alignerd it wrong they tightened the belt so tight it warped the pulley, how it didn't BREAK THE BELT IS BEYOND ME! YAMAHA ended up warranting the rear pulley whiich is big bucks. So once again it appears it is real tricky to get the belt adjusted correctly as well as riding absolutely centered on the rear pulley.I Have had numerous H.D. s w/belt drive I can assure you I never had this problem & adjusted my belts almost always. Rule is if it is making a noise it wasn't when you bought it new something is wrong & it's probably not riding CENTERED in the REAR PULLEY.
 

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Are you ready, let get started. For the Drive Belt Inspection it is recommended that you inspect the drive belt annually, and replace at specified intervals regardless of belt condition.

1. Periodically inspect the drive belt for cuts, missing teeth and excessive wear.

2. Adjust the drive belt tension at intervals in accordance with your motorcycle owner's manual (M.O.M.)

To perform the actual belt tension inspection, perform the following:

1. Secure the motorcycle in an upright position. Shift the transmisison into neutral and be sure to elevate the rear wheel off of the ground. This is critical when checking belt deflection or adjusting the belt.

2. Now you need to finf the "tight spot" on the belt. do this by measuring the belt deflection at 4 different spots on the belt as you rotate the rear wheel.

3. Place a mark at the tightest point. Now adjust the belt deflection to specification.

4. Place a tape measure or ruler next to the drive belt to help you measure deflection. Note that some motorcycles, especially the Victory models, have grduations on the belt bracket for reference. Be sure to measure 1/2 way between the front and rear sprocket centers on the lower part of the belt.

5. Use a belt tension guage. These cost about $30.00 and are well worth the expense. Plus you get to add a new tool to your tool chest. Note that the belt tension guage must be kept at a 90 degree angle to the belt to get an accurate measurement.

6. Push up on the belt tension tool measuring the deflection distance with the amount of force required to be in tolerances. In the case of the Victory Kingpin, this is 10 pounds of force with a tolerance deflection of 9mm. 9mm @ 10lbs. force.

Before you do the Belt Tension Adjustment, you need to make sure the wheel alignment is correct. The following with give you instruction and tips on aligning the wheel and belt correctly.

Belt/wheel alignment method 1:

First measure from the center of the swingarm pivot to the center of the axle. Keep it the same on each side. I have Been doing this on dirt bikes for many years and has not failed yet. I use the Motion Pro belt tensioning tool.

Belt/wheel alignment method 2:

This is what I do if I change a tire or belt.

1] Loosen adjusters completly slide tire to front of adjustment slots.

2] run in both adjusters till they just touch

3] Count threads to make sure they are even

4] going 1/2 turn per side. Take the belt to just loose of adjustment

5] Tighten axle nut,and spin wheel about 10 times. To check belt tracking.

6] If belt is to far right loosen the axle tighten the left side an aditional 1/2turn. Opisete for belt to far left.Spin again. You will never get it centered only to where it has a gap on both sides.

7] tighten both sides equaly until you have 9mm of deflection at 10Lb force. At the tightest point

At this point I test ride. I have NEVER had to go back and readjust doing it this way,and I have done MANY without a tracking problem. No strings or tape necessary http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jim_Noss Wednesday, March 22, 2006
 

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thanks Joe, I found it on the internet but I will take the credit! I read what you had put on here a while back. I couldnt find it. I finally got that 240 metzler on and it feels great! I also dropped the link form 1" to 2.25" SLAMMED....hehehe feels even better, Good times my friend! I also read a little on adjusting the clutch lever. Adjusted it a tad~ much better! belt is tightened where its supposed to be! I was burning rubber on the Hwy this morning on 3rd gear, I had to let off the throttle!
 
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