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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just bought a 2016 Stryker with 10000 km (~6200miles) on it. Has been serviced at the dealer, but the belt was way too loose. I don't have the right 10lb tension tool (waiting for it to arrive) but I have a tool that puts out 8.5lb of force. And with 8.5lb the belt traveled 17mm. Manual states 5-7mm @ 10lb so it was way loose. But as the belt was tracking dead center at that tightness (or should I say looseness) I adjusted both sides equally and got it to 5mm @ 8.5lb, but tracking to left (goes to right when I reverse the bike). I played around adjusting the right side (and eventually loosened the left side as well to 8mm @ 8.5lb) to get it to track center but still get the same results - tracking left when going forward and right when backing up.
It does not make any noises, but my previous bike was a 2012 V-Star 950 that I bought with 10000km (~6200miles) on it with the belt tight and tracking left. After 2 years and 26000km (~16000miles) the belt started to squeal. The left side had gotten all glazed from rubbing that pulley and there was no way to get rid of it as I couldn't get it to track center anymore and as soon as that glazed belt edge made contact with the pulley wall it squealed like a pig.
I'm hoping to get a longer life out of the Stryker's belt so any input is appreciated on the topic.
Also - is the front pulley coming loose a thing on the Stryker like it is with Warrior and V-Star 950? If so - how to prevent this? Retighten with fresh loctight and more force? That's something I also don't want to relive.
 

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I just bought a 2016 Stryker with 10000 km (~6200miles) on it. Has been serviced at the dealer, but the belt was way too loose. I don't have the right 10lb tension tool (waiting for it to arrive) but I have a pressure tool that puts out 8.5lb of constant pressure. And with 8.5lb the belt traveled 17mm. Manual states 5-7mm @ 10lb so it was way loose. But as the belt was tracking dead center at that tightness (or should I say looseness) I adjusted both sides equally and got it to 5mm @ 8.5lb, but tracking to left (goes to right when I reverse the bike). I played around adjusting the right side (and eventually loosened the left side as well to 8mm @ 8.5lb) to get it to track center but still get the same results - tracking left when going forward and right when backing up.
It does not make any noises, but my previous bike was a 2012 V-Star 950 that I bought with 10000km (~6200miles) on it with the belt tight and tracking left. After 2 years and 26000km (~16000miles) the belt started to squeal. The left side had gotten all glazed from rubbing that pulley and there was no way to get rid of it as I couldn't get it to track center anymore and as soon as that glazed belt edge made contact with the pulley wall it squealed like a pig.
I'm hoping to get a longer life out of the Stryker's belt so any input is appreciated on the topic.
Also - is the front pulley coming loose a thing on the Stryker like it is with Warrior and V-Star 950? If so - how to prevent this? Retighten with fresh loctight and more force? That's something I also don't want to relive.
What I have learned is that the belt adjustment notches are best used as a reference point. I will be honest I do not have the tool and have always just used the bottom guard marks and caliper for my measurements. As far as belt being one side that is an alignment issue and only way I have been able to cure this is by putting the rear of the bike in the air (while it’s in neutral) spin the tire by hand and watch the belt on the rear pulley. Belt centered On pulley doesn’t mean wheel is centered. I’ve tried to use the notches on the swing arm but that was never correct. It gets you in the ballpark but fine adjustment for me was by sight. I’ve actually wore my first rear tire on one side because I trusted the notches.
The nut on the front pulley has a lock tab unless that breaks the nut isn’t moving! For my wheel to be straight my belt is more left of the rear pulley just before touching the side, I now have 28k miles and no issues , I also have a hole in my belt from a stone that was over 15k mikes ago.

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Thanks for your reply.
With the caliper you measure the belt slack or wheel alignment bolts? I used a caliper to measure wheel alignment bolts instead of looking at the alignment markers because the right side was hidden behind the muffler and I didn't want to remove that.
On V-Star 950 it has been noted that the front pulley nut stays in place (looking at the notches on the nut) but the spacer behind it gets loose. Just as if it would wear thinner. And when that happens the pulley gets loose too. You'll find that info on the internet and unfortunately I have experienced it myself. That's why I'm asking if there are any known cases of this happening on the Stryker as they use very similar front pulleys and they are torqued exactly the same while the Stryker has more hp. I know that with Warriors some just over-torque the nut to avoid it getting loose.
 

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After removing a license plate bracket from the rear tire bolt I had to adjust the belt so it tracked correctly and had the correct tension. Just like you, I did not have the correct tool for the 10 lbs of force needed to check the tension. I used my wife's digital postal scale and a jack. I lifted the back tire off the ground. Put it in neutral so I could rotate the tire. Used a different jack, placed the digital scale on the jack plate. I used a deep well socket the same width as the belt standing upright on the scale and jacked it up to the 10 lbs required right by the notches on the belt cover. I continued this multiple times making small adjustments until it tracked perfectly while rotating the rear tire. Took it out the next day with a couple coworkers and put about 150 miles on it. It remained centered. To this day it is still centered with the correct tension. That's just how I did it.
 
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