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Its the same size pulley the only difference is like a trailer park queen; she is missing a tooth.
Good one! The pulley is smaller . . . differently than the trailer park queen, one less tooth with the same size pulley would make for a different size tooth, whcih would not work with the same belt of rear pulley. But man, well worth the laugh with the trailer park queen! Kudos to you! LOL
 

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Exactly my point, Toby . . . It takes more engine rotation to "move" the bike the same amount. You have to rev the engine up for the same result.
As a matter of fact, high RPM's do not necessarily mean more torque, hence the expression low-end torque. If that was the case, the maximum torque would be achieved at maximum RPM. High RPMs are more closely associated with speed rather than torque.

It is a misconception to think that you get more torque by reducing the size of the front pulley. You don't. What you do is to rev more to get results, which can translate in a feeling of power, but from the engineering standpoint it does not happen.

As for the speedo, my previous bike was a 2009 Vulcan (not so long ago) ... the speedo was a drive cable type.VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) speedos only appeared around 1993 - you can imagine how long it took for them to reach the bikes! Good to know that our Strykers have new technology. And you are correct . . . the digital speedos are fed from the tranny/drive shaft.

So, if the idea of changing the pulley is to smooth the nervous, jerky 1 & 2nd gear, sure thing (I guess), but not for more torque. Cheers!
Not sure how that equates to more torque, if any at all, just from the pulley change . But that's not what I meant. What I meant was the slight increase in rpm gives you more torque per mph in relation to where it was before. The torque increases as rpm increases, only dropping of at near red line. Since the 30 tooth allows it to rev faster it hit it's peak torque out put faster. More readily available torque
Pretty sure the reference to low end torque is referring to the fact that these V twin motors produce a lot of torque from 1,500 rpm to nearly 6,000 rpm, when comparing them to motors that hit 15,000 to 18,000 rpm that don't start producing their higher torque until 8,000 rpm or more.
Not meaning their max torque level is at the bottom of their rpm range
 

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One thing to keep in mind guys.. in all the threads we’ve had on this topic (and 11’s was the original) I don’t remember anybody saying the pulley swap creates more power or torque. Pretty much everyone that has done the swap has said the same thing; the bike feels better and it’s the way it should have come set up from the factory. The additional point that was key for me was that the Stryker didn’t lose any top end in 5th gear. We can get technical with numbers & ratios, but sometimes just keeping it simple avoids confusion.
 

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One thing to keep in mind guys.. in all the threads we’ve had on this topic (and 11’s was the original) I don’t remember anybody saying the pulley swap creates more power or torque. Pretty much everyone that has done the swap has said the same thing; the bike feels better and it’s the way it should have come set up from the factory. The additional point that was key for me was that the Stryker didn’t lose any top end in 5th gear. We can get technical with numbers & ratios, but sometimes just keeping it simple avoids confusion.
I agree with keeping it simple sdsting . . . But just in case, the first line of the first post on this thread reads "Ok- I got an idea from the Raider Forum about changing front pulley to a pulley with 1 less tooth to increase power to rear wheel . . . . That is why I decided to contribute a bit to the discussion (BTW, I enjoy the discussions, I always learn something). In any case, I myself will be jumping on the pulley change too, because the jerky 1&2 do irritate the cr*p out of me! Cheers!!
 

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Ok, guys . . . sorry if I upset anyone here. Not the intention. My spirit was of collaboration . . . I have taken lots of knowledge from forums like this and I try to give something back.
I felt like this was a technical discussion and not a waste of time and space . . . my mistake. So, with that said, thank you for the replies. Thank you Toby for teaching me about the Stryker speedo. Moving on . . .
Peace to all!
 

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I installed the 30 tooth last week and this is BY FAR the best mod to date. I do a lot of low speed cruising at the beaches and I always felt awkward, surging and needing to constantly shift. Now it is smooth as silk, I can ride from La Jolla Cove to Mission Beach jetty (about 9 miles) all in 2nd gear, except for starts, and relatively quietly. High speed stuff feels great as well, seems to be a tighter response. No idea how 1 tooth does this but I couldn't be happier.
 

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Ok guys... I'm really interesting in doing this mod. I've read I think every thread about it.

I'm really curious about some real world numbers and how the 30 tooth affects certain metrics.

- Running a stock 210 tire: how much does it affect the speedometer accuracy? As of right now, using the GPS, I am a perfect 5 mph off at about all speeds. (Speedo is 5 higher then I'm actually going.) Which I hear is what most others see and is intentional.

- Similar question: How is the speedo accuracy affected by switching to a 240 rear while running the 30 tooth? Does it start to negate the effect of switching to the 30 tooth?

- How is fuel mileage affected? From what I've read, one less tooth means higher RPM. Higher rpm at a higher speed (cruising 70+ on the interstate) must mean more fuel burned.

- Does the higher rpm on the highway really make the motor run louder/harder? I know many of us wish there was a 6th gear. I can't imagine one less tooth at highway speeds would help that situation.

I know there are going to be those of you that say "Who cares? It's a bike." Or "Just ride it like you stole it." Well, I care. I love having a bike that gets 42+ mpg and I factor that into our long trips, so maintain good mpg is very important to me. Also, being able to keep the speedo as close to real speed without using a healer is preferable.
 

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Well Blackvapor I will help you with some numbers in relation to the differences between the 210 and 240, which seems to be a bigger spread in mph and rpm differences than between the 30 and 31 tooth pulleys.
Over all mileage readings show a difference of 5 miles per 100 miles. My bike will read 100 miles with the 240 and wife's bike with the 210 will read 105 miles.
The 240 corrects the 4 to 5 mph off on the speedo to almost to perfect accuracy.
At fill ups with the exact riding side by side trying to match gears shifting points and acceleration all the way my wife consistently uses 3 to 6 tenths of a gal more than I do. I also throttle up every time I down shift and she doesn't as much.
Even the 30 miles of mountain riding we do to the first gas station, 60 mile round trip that we rarely hit 3rd gear in at least 2/3rds of that, she uses 1 to 2 tenths more gas than me in just that 60 miles.:nod:.
 

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Hey Blackvapor, I don't know numbers but after reading your question, I realize that while on the freeway since the swap I have only tried for 6th once and that was to check that I was in 5th.
Before the swap I was trying for 6th quite often.

BTW, I was nervous about getting the wheel aligned and the belt tension correct so I took it in to Lee's Cycles here in San Diego. $39 bucks plus I tipped the mechanic a little extra.
 

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Well Blackvapor I will help you with some numbers in relation to the differences between the 210 and 240, which seems to be a bigger spread in mph and rpm differences than between the 30 and 31 tooth pulleys.
Over all mileage readings show a difference of 5 miles per 100 miles. My bike will read 100 miles with the 240 and wife's bike with the 210 will read 105 miles.
The 240 corrects the 4 to 5 mph off on the speedo to almost to perfect accuracy.
At fill ups with the exact riding side by side trying to match gears shifting points and acceleration all the way my wife consistently uses 3 to 6 tenths of a gal more than I do. I also throttle up every time I down shift and she doesn't as much.
Even the 30 miles of mountain riding we do to the first gas station, 60 mile round trip that we rarely hit 3rd gear in at least 2/3rds of that, she uses 1 to 2 tenths more gas than me in just that 60 miles.:nod:.
Great info, Toby. Thank you!

So, just to clarify...

- You are BOTH running 30 tooth pulleys?
- It sounds as if the combination of the 240 and puller change actually both improve mileage slightly over the stock 210 and all but eliminate the incorrect speedo?
- The only "down" side is that your physical mileage is lower then what you actually travelled... ?

Does all that sound accurate?
 

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Great info, Toby. Thank you!

So, just to clarify...

- You are BOTH running 30 tooth pulleys?
- It sounds as if the combination of the 240 and puller change actually both improve mileage slightly over the stock 210 and all but eliminate the incorrect speedo?
- The only "down" side is that your physical mileage is lower then what you actually travelled... ?

Does all that sound accurate?
No we are both running totally stock except I have the 240. We both have drilled baffles, she has 4-1/2" holes in each and I have 17 holes, 8-1/2", 8 1/4" around the center and 1-1/2" in the center of each baffle each.. My has a unique sound.
Other than that they are stock.
Absolutely no difference in acceleration between the two until higher rpm she starts to drop off. I've decided against the 30 tooth because gas stations are far and few and we do long long rides. We are not city or beach goers.
 

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I like the stock pulley for the highways and the 30th for the twisties where I live in the Ga mtns. But the winter is approching and I tend to do more south ga rideing with my Star Touring club and they meet 60 miles south of me strait down the freeways and rolling hills. So since its so easy to swap front pulleys out, im going to call the 31th pulley my winter pulley and my 30th my summer pulley. That should take care of each argument?
 

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i have talked to a couple of people about this conversion and decided on doing it myself. I found that the smaller the front pulley the higher the bottom end torque while the larger gives you higher top end. I don't do as much highway as i would like to but the bottom end sounds good to me especially with a 250 on the back. thanks fellows.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
You won't be dissapointed!
 

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Raider owner here. Are the splines on the front pulley the same on the Raider and Stryker? I can't find anyone on the Raider forum who has done this. I even emailed chilly. I'd like to do this. Thanks
 
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