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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okey, been a while since I have been here but, something is kinda snafu with my ride. My 2013 Stryker will NOT start.
I will detail this as much as possible.

In the beginning.......
So, I live in Maine and had to go down to Florida for a few weeks.
While gone, the temperature dropped down to the negatives for a few days and even though covered, my bike sat outside in it. My neighbor was supposed to start the bike for me while gone but, he lost the key two days after I left so the bike sat for 3 weeks. When I got back, the bike wouldn't start. The relay would click and click but, no spark. Figured it was the battery. Jumped it from GF's car (Non running of course) and still the relay clicked. Let it sit on her batt for about 10 mins and turned over. After letting it run for about 15 mins, shut it off and tried to restart. Same thing with the relay clicking but not a (12) popped up on the LED. Looked it up, "Camshaft Position Sensor" did all the check outs, fuses, wiring, etc. Everything was in the green. Jumped it again and took it for a cold ass ride for about 20 mins. Got home and it started back up with no issue but, let it sit for 10 mins and the same thing. Relay click and code 12.
Took the battery into work to charge it. Fully charged and put it back in and same **** thing. Code 12.
I don't know if the battery has a charge but not the capacity to turn it over. (Read that code 12 can also mean voltage) Tried tapping the starter with hammer and no joy. Trust me, I have gone through the check-list and nothing. I can't really ride right now considering all the ice and sand on the roads. Can't even push start it due to ice filled parking lot.
I am thinking it's just (HOPEFULLY) a bum battery so I can just go buy a new one and not something major.
Any advice would be very helpful and I am sorry about the long ass description.

Thanks y'all.
 

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Without testing cannot say for sure but battery seems suspect. Keep in mind that because the bike is FI there needs to be some juice in the battery for a push start...

The good thing is that if you have a decent multimeter(digital is much easier to read) you can run through the tests and determine if it is bad OR just in need of a good charge. 2013 isn't that old for a battery but I put mine on a tender and in hibernation aroung TG weekend each year...

I'll link 1 video but there are many that show the same things. You run 4 tests.
1) Ignition off. Want to see a certain range but surface charge can fool you here...
2) Ignition on. Should see a small but consistent drop.
3) Cranking. On our bike this is much easier to test with the FI fuse pulled. Otherwise the bike starts pretty quick and seeing the true voltage drop is hard IMO.
4) Bike running. This test is for the charging system. Even a great battery will fail if the charging system is faulty.

Now you can just take the battery out and take to a shop but they might lean towards just replacing the battery especially if they didn't sell it to you and have overnight slow chargers for use. I've stupidly drained mine down 5 or 6 times and the 2012 is still going strong. Just have to desuffilicate if needed and then slow charge. All that said, I'm probably getting towards the end of its useful service life.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how....12322j0j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=1
 

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I had similar issue with my wife's 650, battery was fully charged, but no start just relay clicking. Jump start from the car also didn't work for some reason. I started troubleshooting the rest of the electrical system, but then decided to check the starting voltage on the battery and sure thing it was dropping to 0.9V while starter button was pressed... Released the button and voltage jumped back to over 12V. Went to Autoparts store, put new battery in, started right up and no issues after that. I believe it is a battery issue on yours as well. Short circuited cell or something.
 

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+1 for a new battery, going on five years and you store it in the cold north. Had the same issue with my daughters raptor, charged for a week but wouldn't start ,clicking. new battery fixed the issue. Since then I've stored everything in heated garage, but still remove the battery from all toys and mowers. I charge them about a month in advance, and have had zero problems for over five years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Finally got the time to work on bike....
Bought a new battery. No joy. Relay still clicks and CPS Code 12 and engine light pops up. When I rock the bike in gear, the code and light go off. When I try to start it after light is off... relay just clicks every time.
Checked all fuses, wires, etc and nothing. It was fine when I put her to bed and now this...?
Hate gremlins!
 

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Finally got the time to work on bike....
Bought a new battery. No joy. Relay still clicks and CPS Code 12 and engine light pops up. When I rock the bike in gear, the code and light go off. When I try to start it after light is off... relay just clicks every time.
Checked all fuses, wires, etc and nothing. It was fine when I put her to bed and now this...?
Hate gremlins!
Bummer. Though a "new" battery doesn't always mean a "fully charged" battery even though they should be. Run the tests and if it passes and you are comfortable bypass the relay and jump the starter(Make sure bike is in neutral!!)
If bike starts then probably the relay but go for a short ride and once back home see if it will start. Could be the relay or starter from what you have described. Don't think it is any of the safety switches that feed the relay since it shouldn't click if any of them are in a preventive no-start position. Either one of them could just be temporarily "stuck" from the over-winter. I'd carry the cable you used to jump the starter with me for a while if this is the case as the Gremlins could come back...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Finally got the time again to tinker with the beast. (I work some long and strange hours) The Code 12 still kept popping up no matter what I tried so, I finally just bi-passed the solenoid with a pair of needle nose pliers and VROOOM!!!! She started up like she was fresh out of the crate.
I shut it off and it would not start back up and the code 12 popped up again.
I disconnected the CPS wire from the connector and tried to start it again through the solenoid and it would just turn and turn. (I did run an ohms test on it beforehand and it read .289 which is in spec) Plugged it back in and popped it again and it fired right back up. So, am guessing the solenoid went bad over the Winter (Did get down to -10F for about 5 days here) Never had this issue before but, then again have always lived in the South. Thank you all for your input and replies. Let me know if I may be something else that I may have overlooked. Btw.... the solenoid just clicks once every time I hit the start button.
 

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I've just now done this, (#12 Code, no relay click, bttry @ 12+V when start switch pressed, no response, other electronics work). Cranked fine a few times. Has push started before w/ this error but don't want to push start now. Got the new relay from above, It did work. I also retested the old one; instead of no click, the relay clicked, but still had error code 12 and no other signs of life.
I then put in the new relay again from Boats.com, and it worked. Daggone but at least it's fixed. New relay was 98% good except its spare fuseholder isn't tight but no biggie.
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-3D8-81940-00-00.html
Toy Electric blue Plastic Motor vehicle Metal

Wheel Tire Toy Automotive tire Motor vehicle

Finally got the time again to tinker with the beast. (I work some long and strange hours) The Code 12 still kept popping up no matter what I tried so, I finally just bi-passed the solenoid with a pair of needle nose pliers and VROOOM!!!! She started up like she was fresh out of the crate.
I shut it off and it would not start back up and the code 12 popped up again.
I disconnected the CPS wire from the connector and tried to start it again through the solenoid and it would just turn and turn. (I did run an ohms test on it beforehand and it read .289 which is in spec) Plugged it back in and popped it again and it fired right back up. So, am guessing the solenoid went bad over the Winter (Did get down to -10F for about 5 days here) Never had this issue before but, then again have always lived in the South. Thank you all for your input and replies. Let me know if I may be something else that I may have overlooked. Btw.... the solenoid just clicks once every time I hit the start button.
 

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Finally got the time to work on bike....
Bought a new battery. No joy. Relay still clicks and CPS Code 12 and engine light pops up. When I rock the bike in gear, the code and light go off. When I try to start it after light is off... relay just clicks every time.
Checked all fuses, wires, etc and nothing. It was fine when I put her to bed and now this...?
Hate gremlins!
Yep I knew it wasn’t the battery because that’s the first thing I changed when I got the error thinking it was an old battery. Still code 12
 
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