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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took a little trip on my Stryker this last week.
I finally got it out and stretched it's legs on the open highway for a few hundred miles and noticed a few things...

1.) When the speedo reads 85 and you have the 30 tooth front pulley you are actually doing @ 77 mph in a 60 mph zone, Thank you officer for not giving me the ticket that I'm sure I deserved.

2.) A bee, at 85 will almost completely obliterate your field of vision on a full face helmet... DO NOT TRY TO WIPE IT OFF.. it will only make it worse!

3.) Even a Relatively short guy (5' 10") will get leg cramps with the pegs where they are, I'll be installing a 3" extension as the next mod.

4.) Even equipped with the Cobra Slash pipes, Cobra programer with auto tune, Cobra BAK, AND the 02 mod my bike STILL surges a bit at slow speeds and NOW HAS DEVELOPED A "HICCUP" when I'm at speed, let off the throttle, then roll the throttle back on and it hiccups....
In a turn I found this to be serious. Almost caused an issue a couple times.
I obviously need to take this bike back in to the dealer and even though I bought all the parts from them I have a feeling they are going to blame the add-ons.
They'll give me some line of garbage about how the bike would be perfect IF i would have just left it alone and stock, in fact I bet they'll try to charge me to look at it when it's clearly a warranty issue.
I only had @ 100 miles on it before this trip.

Any thoughts on why it's doing this?
Should I just unhook the O2 sensor all-together?
 

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Just Un-hook the O2 sensor and all will be right as rain! I gur -annn- teee it!

Seriously thou I totally understand what your going through and its why I just leave my O2 unplugged. It may run a wee bit rich, but I'll take that considering the cr.appy alternatives. So, before you go and take it in to the dealer... just unplugg it and see how it treats ya.

about the speed, My speedo read +5 over what I am really doing according to gps, up to about 70mph... then it starts creeping up... like when my speedo reads 80mph, I'm actually doing 73 via gps.

The scoot mods is on my list of goodies to get "next year" as funding will not be forthcoming for the rest of this year... so, I'll just have to deal with it - especially on the road trip down to Maggie Valley.

Glad the bug splatter didn't cause you to have an accident and you had a cop that was being "nice"!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hows the tension on the throttle cable?
I removed all of the slop in the cable, the Hiccup is a miss, almost a backfire type miss without the backfire pop.
Funny thing is, It happens after the roll-on of the throttle starts taking place... In other words, it starts accelerating (slightly) and THEN it misses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Just Un-hook the O2 sensor and all will be right as rain! I gur -annn- teee it!

Seriously thou I totally understand what your going through and its why I just leave my O2 unplugged. It may run a wee bit rich, but I'll take that considering the cr.appy alternatives. So, before you go and take it in to the dealer... just unplugg it and see how it treats ya.

about the speed, My speedo read +5 over what I am really doing according to gps, up to about 70mph... then it starts creeping up... like when my speedo reads 80mph, I'm actually doing 73 via gps.

The scoot mods is on my list of goodies to get "next year" as funding will not be forthcoming for the rest of this year... so, I'll just have to deal with it - especially on the road trip down to Maggie Valley.

Glad the bug splatter didn't cause you to have an accident and you had a cop that was being "nice"!
I'm going to unhook it today after work and get it up to high way speed and see if it still behaves the way it did on the trip.

Maybe a "Sneeze" would be a better representation of what it feels like at speed....










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I think the problem you are experiencing is probably due to your pipes- you are getting reversion from the pipes & you may want to try Torque tubes installed in the pipes where they bolt onto the heads. These keep exhaust from backing up into the pipe & trying to enter the head when the exhaust valve opens up, this is a problem w/ pipes of the type you have unless they have some kind of built in anti reversion system in them. The Torque tubes are sold thru a lot of Harley a/market outlets & I'm fairly sure they will work in yours as long as you know the inside diameter of the head pipe you have, they are inexpensive & are easy to install other than you will have to disconnect the pipe @ the head so you can insert the tubes @ this location & obviously loosen up other pipe connectors to do this. They don't cause you to lose power you may actually gain alittle w/the style pipes you now have..
 

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Let me get this straight,
You have all these modes and still have some of the issues you had before or after some of the mods and now even have the 30 tooth pulley?, but now you have developed a hiccup when rolling on the throttle after backing off the throttle.
My bike developed that hiccup totally stock but only on rare occasions. Also the same lash, chugging and surging at lower rpm that everyone else is experiencing and it became increasingly noticeable and annoying to boot.
The fix?, drive belt was too loose. With the drive belt properly tightened I no longer have yet to have any of those issues return, except for the normal back lash in the tranny at slow speed too low of rpm. I solve that problem by slipping the clutch.
If you read other threads here on tuners, pipes and and other mods including the 30 tooth pulley you will find that a few others have solved these same issues by tightening up their drive belt
My suggestion to you is check that before you waist time and money on a bunch of crap you may not need. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Let me get this straight,
You have all these modes and still have some of the issues you had before or after some of the mods and now even have the 30 tooth pulley?, but now you have developed a hiccup when rolling on the throttle after backing off the throttle.
My bike developed that hiccup totally stock but only on rare occasions. Also the same lash, chugging and surging at lower rpm that everyone else is experiencing and it became increasingly noticeable and annoying to boot.
The fix?, drive belt was too loose. With the drive belt properly tightened I no longer have yet to have any of those issues return, except for the normal back lash in the tranny at slow speed too low of rpm. I solve that problem by slipping the clutch.
If you read other threads here on tuners, pipes and and other mods including the 30 tooth pulley you will find that a few others have solved these same issues by tightening up their drive belt
My suggestion to you is check that before you waist time and money on a bunch of crap you may not need. Good luck.
Kind of what I was thinking myself although I read every thread on this forum as well as other places about the tuners and all the related "Problems" with the Strykers and put in as much research as possible when all I have to go on is the majority of opinions of the riders.
But when I have a bike that acts up and I see that others are trying to address the same thing and I see that they have some success then I have to try the same "Fix" that worked for them.
Some would say I'm just throwing money at it but at this point I have to try because I wasn't satisfied with a bike that runs like Sh*t.
I spent a lot of $$$ to buy it.

I will say that this bike really Sh*ts and Gits now with all the additions but holy ****, at what cost?
Okay, so the BAK looks sweet and so do the pipes and they sound even better and to have both, I needed a programer...
I did notice a considerable improvement over stock with the 30 tooth pulley at a 25MPH and 35MPH cruise speed in 2nd and 3rd gears respectively so THATs a plus. Most towns are 25 or 35 MPH limit and before the swap I had to always speedup,... slow down, ... speed up... That, or let it hesitate and sound bad. it was embarrassing.

I removed all the play in my throttle cable, it made the jerkiness at speed when off, then on the throttle go away almost entirely.

I certainly can over-tighten my belt but it's right at the Mfg. set tolerance now.
What would tightening it to, say 15lbs do to it? would it wear faster?
I'll try anything at this point really.
 

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Kind of what I was thinking myself although I read every thread on this forum as well as other places about the tuners and all the related "Problems" with the Strykers and put in as much research as possible when all I have to go on is the majority of opinions of the riders.
But when I have a bike that acts up and I see that others are trying to address the same thing and I see that they have some success then I have to try the same "Fix" that worked for them.
Some would say I'm just throwing money at it but at this point I have to try because I wasn't satisfied with a bike that runs like Sh*t.
I spent a lot of $$$ to buy it.

I will say that this bike really Sh*ts and Gits now with all the additions but holy ****, at what cost?
Okay, so the BAK looks sweet and so do the pipes and they sound even better and to have both, I needed a programer...
I did notice a considerable improvement over stock with the 30 tooth pulley at a 25MPH and 35MPH cruise speed in 2nd and 3rd gears respectively so THATs a plus. Most towns are 25 or 35 MPH limit and before the swap I had to always speedup,... slow down, ... speed up... That, or let it hesitate and sound bad. it was embarrassing.

I removed all the play in my throttle cable, it made the jerkiness at speed when off, then on the throttle go away almost entirely.

I certainly can over-tighten my belt but it's right at the Mfg. set tolerance now.
What would tightening it to, say 15lbs do to it? would it wear faster?
I'll try anything at this point really.
No don't tighten past spec this is already tighter than most brands .
Again I find myself repeating this, Once you have tried everything within your power, limited by your knowledge and the equipment you posses, take it to a shop that specializes in these areas and have it tuned right.
The companies the sale these products will never give up info you need, including the best tuners map numbers, because they would go bankrupted if their secrets and knowledge were readily available and past around for free. If you think about it when Cobra or any other comp. sends you different map numbers or what ever info they give it's already common knowledge. If non of these things work on your bike you need a bike specific map or special fix period. and the only way you are going to find out exactly what is to run a Dyno.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No don't tighten past spec this is already tighter than most brands .
Again I find myself repeating this, Once you have tried everything within your power, limited by your knowledge and the equipment you posses, take it to a shop that specializes in these areas and have it tuned right.
The companies the sale these products will never give up info you need, including the best tuners map numbers, because they would go bankrupted if their secrets and knowledge were readily available and past around for free. If you think about it when Cobra or any other comp. sends you different map numbers or what ever info they give it's already common knowledge. If non of these things work on your bike you need a bike specific map or special fix period. and the only way you are going to find out exactly what is to run a Dyno.
I agree about taking it to the pros, my problem is that I put all these parts on that were touted as the best way to make it run right.
I don't believe it ran right when I bought it and the dealer wants to fix it for me but already has his mind made up that to fix it he's gonna sell me a commander whatchamacallit programmer with auto tune because they don't carry the Cobra. (I made them order it)
I read, researched and decided what I wanted after I chose what pipes and BAK I wanted.
I went with the O2 mod because so many said it did the trick.
Well, after all is said and done... disconnecting the O2 sensor fixed it all.
no more chugging, no more hiccup or sneeze at speed, no more hesitation in town.
The "Knowledgeable" shop guy at the dealer told me the bike would throw a fault code if I did this... He was wrong about THAT too.
 

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I agree about taking it to the pros, my problem is that I put all these parts on that were touted as the best way to make it run right.
I don't believe it ran right when I bought it and the dealer wants to fix it for me but already has his mind made up that to fix it he's gonna sell me a commander whatchamacallit programmer with auto tune because they don't carry the Cobra. (I made them order it)
I read, researched and decided what I wanted after I chose what pipes and BAK I wanted.
I went with the O2 mod because so many said it did the trick.
Well, after all is said and done... disconnecting the O2 sensor fixed it all.
no more chugging, no more hiccup or sneeze at speed, no more hesitation in town.
The "Knowledgeable" shop guy at the dealer told me the bike would throw a fault code if I did this... He was wrong about THAT too.
.

Good job and glad you finally got it right or satisfactory. Had you fallen for sales hype who knows how many frustration, time and money you would have gone through to get where your at know.
Don't know why yours didn't throw a code because what I read is they will throw a code even after you get it right simply because something has changed. Even if it doesn't display on your digital read out, the error code is in the memory chip and will show up on a diognostic check .
Keep us updated on if it keeps runny smooth.:thumb:
 

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So, when you unplug it, do you leave the bung attached and unplug it at the harness / connector?
 

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I agree about taking it to the pros, my problem is that I put all these parts on that were touted as the best way to make it run right.
I don't believe it ran right when I bought it and the dealer wants to fix it for me but already has his mind made up that to fix it he's gonna sell me a commander whatchamacallit programmer with auto tune because they don't carry the Cobra. (I made them order it)
I read, researched and decided what I wanted after I chose what pipes and BAK I wanted.
I went with the O2 mod because so many said it did the trick.
Well, after all is said and done... disconnecting the O2 sensor fixed it all.
no more chugging, no more hiccup or sneeze at speed, no more hesitation in town.
The "Knowledgeable" shop guy at the dealer told me the bike would throw a fault code if I did this... He was wrong about THAT too.
So glad to hear that worked out for you like I knew it would!
I don't know why it works - but like you said - of all the "mods" it is the only one that works like it should.

Though like Toby & other's have suggested - If I had the funds and knew of a reliable, knowledgeable & trusted tech. I would definately be curious as to what the Dyno could tell us what is going on when our bikes would have their lil seizures! Just for curiousities sake if nothing else.
 
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