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2012 stryker
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The weep hole is located at the bottom of the oil pan opposite side of oil plug bolt .
( Triangular shaped with 2 bolts holding it in place. )
Any indication of coolant or oil dripping will merit a o ring change, although many just avoid and ignore the repair due to the process being a PITA . But - not really!! Read on :
Procedure is simple . Tedious but simple. Step one : remove seat
Step 2 : remove gas tank bolts ( 2 )
Step 3 : start engine ( warm up oil )
Step 4 : drain oil - also remove filter
Step 5 : replace oil plug
Step 6 : lower gas tank 6 " to gain access to coolant reservoir cap. The gas tank may feel tight in place. Gently rock it sideways a little bit holding it at the bottom, one hand on each side. Slight pressure downwards will work it free. It's not necessary to remove it , just slide it enough to gain access to the coolant cap . ( Also a good idea to prepare ahead of time for this by letting your gas tank get low so its lighter and easier to handle. )
Step 7 : check coolant level. If it's real low then that's a red flag -- It should be right at the top .( make sure engine has cooled from previous warmup before removing radiator cap )
Step 8 : place catch-pan under radiator and loosen drain plug at bottom.
Note: if coolant was changed recently it may be reused if you take caution with a clean basin and strain the coolant when putting it back in . Our strykers take 2.2 quarts to fill completely. That is 64 ounces + 6.4 ounces = 70.4 oz.
I suggest that you just replace with new coolant. Yamacool pre-mix is 10 dollars a quart . If you add new coolant you might want to measure what came out too so that way you know how much goes back in and you're not questioning it.
Step 9 : after complete drain , close drain spigot and Put radiator cap back on to make sure no dirt dust or bugs get in .
Step 10 : you're now ready to remove the drain coke screws .. ( misspelled the word deliberately) . The screws should be tightened at 7.2 ft. Lb. they most likely will be on tighter since they have never been off before. ( mine were jackhammered on and probably crushed the rubber o ring )
The O rings can then be removed and put back in the same place that the old ones were. A good chance now to use a pipe cleaner or something small to get into the weep hole and clean it out .
Make sure to grease the o rings first. (White Lithium grease or silicone grease ) ... for heaven sake dont use Vaseline or WD 40 lol ... The D.C. can then go back into place and the screws returned and tightened down.
Step 11 : Time to add back fresh oil and then coolant.... Make sure you take time to very slowly add the coolant. By replacing the oil first you can then start the engine and allow the coolant to circulate and get air bubbles out of system. Shake the bike back and forth gently and youll see the bubbles coming out . After completely filling coolant, you're ready to put gas tank back in place and double check your oil level. *****I'm currently in the process of doing all this so I will add photos when done . ✔ 😎 .. time to get back to the job... the jobs been done. I'm editing this . Any questions let me know.
 

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2012 stryker
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
So , all done guys . Actually one more thing.
Replaced orings. Added oil . Added coolant. Started bike .
Waiting now for bike to cool down.
Then to tipoff any coolant that might need to be added.
BY THE WAY - in case you're wondering, after pulling out the drain dick absolutely no coolant, not even a drop, came out . About 3 or 4 ounces maybe of oil dripped out but that's about it. The big question is what's going to happen when I pull that thing ????... now we know ! 😎
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2012 stryker
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Curious abot how It works, not seen any electric/ mechanical connections..
It's just a weep hole. If the water pump fails then the coolant wouldn't mix in the oil . It would have a place to drip out . The rubber o rings wear out over time and will allow oil to slip through and come out because the water pump sits inside the oil pan . Notice that in the pictures the piece I pulled out called the drain Caulk , spelled it wrong ( drain dick ) lol , but that piece is about 2 inches long . So when the oil is in the pan , the water pump sits above most of the oil ( I'm guessing) .
There's no Electric involved here. If you check underneath your bike you might even see a faint drip of oil by the weephole. It's not uncommon.
 

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It's just a weep hole. If the water pump fails then the coolant wouldn't mix in the oil . It would have a place to drip out . The rubber o rings wear out over time and will allow oil to slip through and come out because the water pump sits inside the oil pan . Notice that in the pictures the piece I pulled out called the drain Caulk , spelled it wrong ( drain dick ) lol , but that piece is about 2 inches long . So when the oil is in the pan , the water pump sits above most of the oil ( I'm guessing) .
There's no Electric involved here. If you check underneath your bike you might even see a faint drip of oil by the weephole. It's not uncommon.
If the water pump fails then the coolant wouldn't mix in the oil.
The opposite I think :); A buddy replaced a rocket3 entire motor because of the pump's o'ring/seal. I saw It open and was an absolutely disaster.

Thanks Sir.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If the water pump fails then the coolant wouldn't mix in the oil.
The opposite I think :); A buddy replaced a rocket3 entire motor because of the pump's o'ring/seal. I saw It open and was an absolutely disaster.

Thanks Sir.
That's a triumph rocket?? I had one .a 2020 gt ( see pic ) .
This is the design on our strykers. And I'm not making this stuff up, I researched the reason why it's designed like that and that's what I found out. I think the engineers wouldn't deliberately want coolant to be in the oil either. Yes , sometimes things turn out that way. A catastrophic failure may indeed cause coolant to circulate into the oil .
But in the case of a slow gasket or seal leak , the coolant has a chance to exit via the weep hole - and hopefully you catch it sooner than later and take care of an impending situation. 😎 Sir .
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The failure which I referred was an internal o'ring/seal in the middle of oil and water pump joined by a common shaft; an usual desing I think, he wasn't making any work. I haven't fully understood what you meant :rolleyes:.
De nada mi amigo. ¿Por seguro, se habla espanol, verdad ? Tenia Quatro anos en la esquela . Roger. 👍.
 
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