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140 Posts
Monday I went in for some Tuning and baseline numbers before I tear the engine apart this winter.
First off, I had my Megabuddys 2.0 Slip on and an opened up airbox with K & N filter for engine
mods, BEFORE I put the Gman controller on.
I put the controller on and didn't notice any difference in power, the only thing I liked was less
popping on deceleration. The slip on Muffler is NOT Straight through, it does have a Winged
baffle in it that I made. Opening it up might have helped a couple HP's but its not worth the
added noise IMO.
I had to wait a month just to get in for the Dyno session.
Third Warm up pull it did 80hp/91 torque BEFORE messing with the controller. After repeated
heat cycles, etc, the HP never changed over 2 hp. Thats interesting, as we messed with the
Programmer quite a bit.
We found out where the Gman comes on/controls fuel.
Out of the Box the GMAN is a bit RICH. I live just a couple hundred feet above Sea level BTW.
Green mode is cruise/idle
YELLOW mode functions between 3800 - 5200 RPM's EVEN at WOT
RED mode controls 5200 rpms up
You can see it on the A/F Graph on where they dip from our changes.
We had to bring the Settings in the Yellow and Red mode all the way down to 1 to clean up the A/F
ratio to where we wanted it. We wanted to get the WOT Ratio a bit higher, but we had the
programmer at its lowers possible setting.
The regular cruise A/F ratio was a bit rich, but tuning the Green mode down just made it pop and
bang like crazy. The programmer isnt perfect, but it does work. My guess is most people are
overfueling with theirs.
I though the Torque curve of the Bike was Impressive, and the HP Curve tells you how much this
engine likes the higher RPM range. I though the controller was pretty forgiving for messing with
it, as in not affecting over all power output much. I would have liked to have tested mine with
out the programmer to see the A/F ratios. The only benefit I gained from the controller was to
richen up the cruise for less popping.
Where did that 110hp 131/tq come from?
NITROUS!!! Enjoy.
A/F Graph
First off, I had my Megabuddys 2.0 Slip on and an opened up airbox with K & N filter for engine
mods, BEFORE I put the Gman controller on.
I put the controller on and didn't notice any difference in power, the only thing I liked was less
popping on deceleration. The slip on Muffler is NOT Straight through, it does have a Winged
baffle in it that I made. Opening it up might have helped a couple HP's but its not worth the
added noise IMO.
I had to wait a month just to get in for the Dyno session.
Third Warm up pull it did 80hp/91 torque BEFORE messing with the controller. After repeated
heat cycles, etc, the HP never changed over 2 hp. Thats interesting, as we messed with the
Programmer quite a bit.
We found out where the Gman comes on/controls fuel.
Out of the Box the GMAN is a bit RICH. I live just a couple hundred feet above Sea level BTW.
Green mode is cruise/idle
YELLOW mode functions between 3800 - 5200 RPM's EVEN at WOT
RED mode controls 5200 rpms up
You can see it on the A/F Graph on where they dip from our changes.
We had to bring the Settings in the Yellow and Red mode all the way down to 1 to clean up the A/F
ratio to where we wanted it. We wanted to get the WOT Ratio a bit higher, but we had the
programmer at its lowers possible setting.
The regular cruise A/F ratio was a bit rich, but tuning the Green mode down just made it pop and
bang like crazy. The programmer isnt perfect, but it does work. My guess is most people are
overfueling with theirs.
I though the Torque curve of the Bike was Impressive, and the HP Curve tells you how much this
engine likes the higher RPM range. I though the controller was pretty forgiving for messing with
it, as in not affecting over all power output much. I would have liked to have tested mine with
out the programmer to see the A/F ratios. The only benefit I gained from the controller was to
richen up the cruise for less popping.
Where did that 110hp 131/tq come from?

A/F Graph

