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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks! I have a 2012 Stryker, just began having some issues this evening and need some help. I put the key in the bike, turn to the on position, fuel pump kicks it, dash lights cycle through, and all seems normal until I hit the starter. Loud pop, then nothing. Turn the key off and let it set for a few minuets and everything seems ok again, then I press the starter and the loud pop again and everything goes black. I used a jumper box on it, with the cables connected all the dash lights cycle through and everything seems ok, until I hit the starter. Sparks come off the hot cable, makes the same loud pop as before then starts right up and appears to be ok, until I unhook the cables, when it starts missing really bad and dies. 2nd attempt the bike does the same as before, I give it a little gas before unhooking the cables thinking the battery may be the issue, and in an attempt to help with charging. This seemed to work for a few seconds, when the dash lights start cycling and the speedo goes max to min over and over, the headlamp goes out, and after a few more seconds the bike dies again. The bike ran perfect when I parked it 3 days ago, and now this. Checked the voltage on the battery while connected to the bike and I'm showing 12.6 volts. Doesn't seem to be the battery but I may be wrong. Any help would be great.
 

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You have a short in the system. First check where the sparks are coming from. The pop you are hearing is from a power wire connecting with a ground. The pop sound is basically an electrical arc.
 

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^+1
I'd check the starter relay for a short, also sounds like a rectifier/stator issue. Does the bike idle, rev fine with the jumper cables?
is it in neutral? try rolling the bike in gear, maybe the starter is stuck engaged

just throwing around ideas
 

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^+1
I'd check the starter relay for a short, also sounds like a rectifier/stator issue. Does the bike idle, rev fine with the jumper cables?
is it in neutral? try rolling the bike in gear, maybe the starter is stuck engaged

just throwing around ideas
On the same note see if you can push start it. If that is successful and the bike runs then it is related to the starter/starter circuit. Either the device itself or possibly the wires going to it from the relay etc. Though if it were a short to ground I would have expected you to have blown a fuse. Then again, I'd have to check the wiring diagram to see if that is fused but I cannot believe it is not.

If you do have arcing somewhere it should be obvious after 3+ issues and loud pops. Trace the wires and look for burn marks.

As always, consider recent projected that could have possibly caused this. Things happen regardless, but generally more things happen when we mod the bike!!
 

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What all mods have you done to the bike? Anything with the ECU or fuel control? If it were ONLY the starter, that would explain the short causing the pops but once running, the starter circuit should disengage. It idles but roughly then shuts down, right? Do you still hear the whine of the starter while idling? Then it sounds like it eventually gets starved of fuel, or the ignition is interrupted. So, it could be the rectifier Kidastra mentioned keeping the starter circuit engaged then possibly interfering with the fuel control.
 

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Check the rectifier and stop messing with the bike like this otherwise you could end up blowing more costly components.
+1

Agree 100%
Hardest thing is knowing our limits when it comes to fixing things.
Would hate to see you damage other components and mistakes cost $$$
If you are not familiar with electricity, electronics, Ohm's Law, path of least resistance, shorts, opens, current, voltage, etc...get help from someone who is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bike runs with the jumper box conected at any rpm. However the dash lights start going on and off when its reved. It will not idle with the jumper box disconnected, it will run roughly if you rev the engine and the lights act wierd again. It will not rolling start as it hits then dies. No mods beyond drilling the baffles 4, .5 inch holes per baffle. Dont hear a whinning noise while its running like the starter is engaged. Ive done nothing beyond checking the voltage and wires that i can plainly see.
 

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Bike runs with the jumper box conected at any rpm. However the dash lights start going on and off when its reved. It will not idle with the jumper box disconnected, it will run roughly if you rev the engine and the lights act wierd again. It will not rolling start as it hits then dies. No mods beyond drilling the baffles 4, .5 inch holes per baffle. Dont hear a whinning noise while its running like the starter is engaged. Ive done nothing beyond checking the voltage and wires that i can plainly see.
You have to do a complete check on all the wiring. Not just the ones you can plainly see. Look for any black or melted wires or covers and make sure all connections are tight. These checks also include magneto, regulator, coils, starter and ecu. Please do not crank the engine over again until you find the problem, you can fry your ecu. As stated before, if you need help just go get it because it can cause a lot of damage and cost a lot of money if anything goes wrong.
 

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If this was a car..... I would say your alternator is shorted. Within the alternator there is something called a rectifier that is composed of 3 sets of 2 diodes ( for a total of 6 ), it's what converts ac volts to dc volts. When one shorts it allows alternating current to pass through and spike the system, this is what causes lights to flicker and some modules to shut down as a protection. Sinse diods only allow volts to pass in one direction, when one shorts out it'll allow your battery to drain keeping the alternator powered up unwanted. I don't know if in our bikes they come as a unit or separate. It's not rare for electronics to just give out from one day to the next. Without testing and from the info I've read it's my best guess for you. Good luck
 

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The battery should register 12.4-12.7 resting volts. It should register around 14ish when started and running unless the regulator/rectifier is bad. If the regulator is bad that could be the reason the lights brighten and dim based on throttle. Unless you are using a multimeter to track and diagnose these fluctuations you're respectfully very possibly doing more damage than good to your electrical system as previously stated. Get a multimeter out and report the values. Continuing to rev an engine with a bad rectifier could over volt your system and will cause ecu damage.
 

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Bike runs with the jumper box conected at any rpm. However the dash lights start going on and off when its reved. It will not idle with the jumper box disconnected, it will run roughly if you rev the engine and the lights act wierd again. It will not rolling start as it hits then dies. No mods beyond drilling the baffles 4, .5 inch holes per baffle. Dont hear a whinning noise while its running like the starter is engaged. Ive done nothing beyond checking the voltage and wires that i can plainly see.
Bike is lacking voltage to stay running. So either a bad part, (stator or rectifier) or a short, since you say you hear a "pop" I'd try finding a short. have you checked for blown fuses? might help narrow down where the short is
 

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Sounds like a loose connection somewhere. Dash lights going off/on would be a symptom of that. Jumper cables helping might be cause the cable is helping the loose connection not be loose.

If your battery has 12+ volts I wouldn't mess with jumpers. Look for a connector that's not seated right.
 

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This may sound too simple (sometimes I've found the answer is the simplest thing)...but make sure your battery cables are good and tight. During one of my services I found that both cables were SIGNIFICANTLY loosened just from riding a lot.
 

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This may sound too simple (sometimes I've found the answer is the simplest thing)...but make sure your battery cables are good and tight. During one of my services I found that both cables were SIGNIFICANTLY loosened just from riding a lot.
+1 on that. came back last night from a couple hundred mile run and everything was fine all day and i parked in garage. Went to start up this morning and got what typically sounds like dead battery. took off seat and + terminal was barely finger tight. buttoned it up and no problems all day. (so far) :)
 

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This may sound too simple (sometimes I've found the answer is the simplest thing)...but make sure your battery cables are good and tight. During one of my services I found that both cables were SIGNIFICANTLY loosened just from riding a lot.
I always assume that the obvious simple stuff has already been checked could be the technician in me :madgrin:
 
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