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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys, need some help identifying where I should start with the diagnosis for what the problem with my Stryker might be.

So the problem first started when I was out for a ride about 2 weeks ago. About 30ish miles into the ride I was in a little bit of traffic so was going about 35-40 mpg and I noticed that the speedometer needle did a full sweep to the right and I felt a minor jerk in the movement. Didn't think much of it and continued with the ride. Then about 52ish miles in to the ride all of a sudden the engine died, I looked at the display and didn't see anything there.
I immediately started pulling to the shoulder and once on the shoulder I again noticed that the display was back on and the needle was doing a full sweep to the right like it does when you first turn the ignition on. The engine came back on fine and at that point I turned around and headed back. On the way back after about another 50 miles the same thing happened while I was stopped on a traffic light. Display dead, I shifted to neutral and noticed that the neutral light wasn't on and the headlight was dead too. After about 10 or so seconds the display came back on and the engine started as normal.


If anyone have encountered similar behavior or have any clue as to what might be going on with my bike please let me know.
 

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Bummer. This might be hard to troubleshoot as it is intermittent.

That said, low hanging fruit and a logical, progressive approach always makes sense.

You should always check for loose connections at the battery, fuses that aren't pushed fully in and do a visual.
One thing that might help is isolating whether the bike dying is from a total power loss or related to the ignition and/or kill switches and wiring. What might help here is the clock. See if it has reset or if it is keeping time. If it is keeping time then probably not a total power loss.

I'd also see if the ignition and kill switches feel "normal" as you move them through their positions. Should be a solid engagement. Also see if wiggling the ignition key causes the speedo to resweep.

Do a few test and post back. BTW, are you a Northerner with winter storage? Mice can be an issue with them nibbling on wires...
 

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Electrical issues are a challenge to find, especially when they are intermittent. I agree with Billy. If you find nothing with that, start with a good visual inspection of the wiring and look for worn spots.
Good luck.
 

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Strange as it may sound (and simple) is to start with the battery first. I would just replace it straight up. Been riding bikes for almost 40 years, and had a lot of bizarro things happen over that time to bike electrics. An old timer told me "it's always the **** battery, so start there" and I do believe he was right. I have had a number of times my bike would quit, lights would randomly go on and off, all that stuff. New battery = fix.

Also, I'm wondering if it's 'all stock' as you say, then perhaps you have an original battery. If so, it would be high time for a replacement in any case. At least then you have eliminated the big obvious solution if it still acts up.

Hope this helps, and isn't too simplistic. Remember - there is always a fix for these things. Sometimes it's quick, sometimes not.

+1 on the mice chewing wires comment below. I have had that happen too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the responses, I'll add update and info about the things I've looked at so far.

Update - A few days ago I was thinking of riding around the city to see if the problem surfaces again so I can get more clues as to what might be wrong and I rode around for about 60 miles and had no problem. The next day when trying to do the same I put the key in and the dash and neutral and other lights came on as expected and as soon as I press the ignition button everything shut down. I turned the key off and then back on after a few seconds and again the dash and neutral and other lights came on and then as soon as I press the ignition button everything shut down again. And now everything is permanently dead. Now the dash lights are not coming on anymore and not responding to key.

Battery - Well I misspoke that the bike is entirely stock, I did replace the battery around summer last year, but I'm planning on taking the battery out and have it inspected to make sure it charges completely and holds the charge.

Fuses And Connections - I've looked at all the fuses and they all look good. I made sure to push them all the way in and even tried to swap some with the appropriate spares. Visual inspection of the main fuse make it look okay. I have had the issue of loose battery connector in the past and it felt very much similar to what I am experiencing now so I did check the battery terminal to make sure it is properly connected and is not loose.

Billy, thanks for the hint about trying to use the clock to identify if it is total failure or jus t ignition related, if I get the dash to come back on i'll make sure to check the clock and post it here. Also, I am on the east coast so I don't do winter storage for my bike. It just sits in my building's underground garage and mice biting on wires is certainly a possibility. I'll make sure to check the wires for that kind of damage.
 

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Sounds like the battery is suspect at best. Even new ones fail but at least under warranty there... And like said above, check the connections to make sure they are tight. Bad connections can keep the battery from getting charged correctly.

But, and of course there is always a but..., could be the charging system as well. Get the bike running by either charging the existing battery(place you bought it at should do this if it passes the good/bad test or give you a new one if it fails) or jumping the bike from a NON-RUNNING car. Car batteries have plenty of power to start a bike but when running there is the possibility they will send too many amps to the bike since there system is designed for a lot more power etc.

Once running the reading at the battery terminals should be between 13.5 and 14.5 or so if the charging system is good. If a lot higher or lower then either the stator and/or rectifier are bad. Google will show you how to test these.

Good luck and please let us know how this gets fixed. The search function is virtually useless if people don't post the final fixes etc. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, you guys were right. The cause for the engine shutting off appears to be a bad battery. I took the battery for testing and the shop said that it was bad, I put a new battery in and now the engine is coming back on.
Now the next thing to check is why did the battery died in just one year.

As Billy suggested I'll next check the voltage at the terminal to be between 13.5 and 14.5 but I have one more question. The bike currently about 110 miles from my home where I drove today to replace the battery and make sure that the engine comes on but I wasn't able to bring it back. Question is this - given that something very likely caused my one year old battery to die, is it safe to ride the bike a 110 miles back to my home and then get the stator/rectifier or whatever the cause is fixed near me or should I get it fixed where the bike currently is and only then ride it back. Could a brand new battery again potentially die or lose enough charge for the bike to again shut down mid-ride?
 

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Yes, you guys were right. The cause for the engine shutting off appears to be a bad battery. I took the battery for testing and the shop said that it was bad, I put a new battery in and now the engine is coming back on.
Now the next thing to check is why did the battery died in just one year.

As Billy suggested I'll next check the voltage at the terminal to be between 13.5 and 14.5 but I have one more question. The bike currently about 110 miles from my home where I drove today to replace the battery and make sure that the engine comes on but I wasn't able to bring it back. Question is this - given that something very likely caused my one year old battery to die, is it safe to ride the bike a 110 miles back to my home and then get the stator/rectifier or whatever the cause is fixed near me or should I get it fixed where the bike currently is and only then ride it back. Could a brand new battery again potentially die or lose enough charge for the bike to again shut down mid-ride?
The answer to your question is yes. A brand new battery could die but that's just how batteries are. If I got another brand new battery and it died quickly, then I may look to see if something else is going on with my electrical system. The issue is that in a year there are literally thousands of factors at play. If it were my electrical system, I would believe that my battery would have issues sooner than a year. I've had batteries go bad in a year. It happens. Where you live and the conditions the vehicle are stored in play a part.
 

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I'd just ride it to a local auto parts store(where it is now) if you don't have a multimeter. They can tell you if it is being charged or not.

As for making the ride home with a bad charging system, I can't say for sure. I know car batteries quote RC(reserve capacity) which is usually about 1 hour...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got it, thanks Billy. In that case I won't risk having it shut down on the highway by riding it all the way back and will have the stator/rectifier replaced (depending on which of those might be dead)
 

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Might not be a charging system issue as you never identified any issues prior to the battery change just the battery. If you made the ride ther ewith the bad battery than it should make the ride home on the new one..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was out of town for a few weeks so couldn't do any tests. Anyways, I bought a multimeter and watch a crap load of videos online about how to test stator and regulator-rectifier and tested them, both appear to be working as expected. Tested the voltage on battery terminal, with ignition off it is ~12.8 volts and with engine on at idle it is ~13.4-13.6 volts and with engine around 5k rpm voltage is ~13.9 - 14.1 volts so everything appears to be fine. Guess it was just the old battery. I'll keep an eye on battery voltage for the next few weeks in case anything changes.

A big thanks to all the people who replied in this thread, you guys saved me a lot of money.
 

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Glad it seems to be worked out for you. When you think about how many kazillion batteries are pumped out each year, the chance of a lemon now and then is certainly in the realm of possibility. Just ride, have fun, and don't worry about it. My money is on a bum battery, and things should be smooth from here on in. Fingers crossed for ya :)
 

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Glad it seems to be worked out for you. When you think about how many kazillion batteries are pumped out each year, the chance of a lemon now and then is certainly in the realm of possibility. Just ride, have fun, and don't worry about it. My money is on a bum battery, and things should be smooth from here on in. Fingers crossed for ya :)
+1 but I always suggest people run the simple tests. I hate to see people waste time and money guessing when tools are usually the same price or less.

I 1000% believe in the old "Give a man a fish he eats for a day but teach him to fish and he eats for a lifetime..." :)

There are times to go to the shop/pros but depending on your level of mechanical/electrical ability those times with Yamaha are few and far in-between!!
My dad gave me a solid background before passing and I have an inquiry mind so I like to figure out the simple stuff. The time and money spent not going to the dealership is just icing on the cake for me. Take our oil changes: I'm basically done except for disposing of the oil in the time it would take me to get to the dealership(20ish minutes). Filters/washers online and oil at local grocery store often with 10% off coupon and then sometimes rebate on top of that.
 

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Copperstrykerguy, You described in your original post precisely what my 2012 did yesterday! Every single detail matches. I had to have the bike towed and it is at the shop now. So far no word on a verdict. Been riding for 58 years and have never experienced a bike so electrically dead on the side of the road as this was! Please keep us updated on any further developments. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
For me what I think happened was a bad battery. My battery must have been slowly losing capacity to hold charge and the occasional shut down what my guess is must have been symptoms of that issue. I say that because after I replaced the battery, I tested the stator and regulator/rectifier and they were both good. Ever since replacing the battery my bike has been running fine and I've done about 900 to 1000 miles since then.
 

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Thanks! No word from the shop yet, but I hope that if and when they get to repairing it, they START with a new battery! The only other thing onboard that would cause such a complete lack of power (in my opinion) would be the failure of the big 50 amp fuse just ahead of the battery, but while I was stranded, I looked at that, and visually it looked OK. Although I also have a Triumph Tiger, I really miss riding that bike. Shame that this happened in the heart of their "busy" season.
 
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