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I made a template out of paper with center guides at 12/3/6/9......wanted it aligned perfectly....

Then used a center punch to mark the spots, so a very small drill bit wouldn't drift.

Then kept drilling with incrementally larger bits, initially stopped at 4 3/8" holes in each pipe, rode for a week, sounded ok, but wanted a bit more rumble....so went to 1/2".... liking the sound a lot better than stock....

Bought some Krylon high temp engine paint, masked off everything (and a drop cloth over the whole bike) and painted the inner baffles......came out looking and sounding sweet.....
 

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So I'm just taking a stab, but this would void my warranty if I did this, right? I love my Stryker, but the factoory pipes are the dumbest idea they had. I hate the design and I loathe the sound. Any advise would be appreciated. (Planning on buying aftermarkets, but that's going to wait a while)
 

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LandShark said:
So I'm just taking a stab, but this would void my warranty if I did this, right? I love my Stryker, but the factoory pipes are the dumbest idea they had. I hate the design and I loathe the sound. Any advise would be appreciated. (Planning on buying aftermarkets, but that's going to wait a while)
NOPE!
 

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Does anyone know more about the punch out method? What size rod, how long? Does it work pretty easy? And lastly does it sound good?

Seems like the 4 hole method sounds really farty. Does either of these methods make it pop more?
 

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Re: Re: Factory pipe drill out!

mkohnen said:
Does anyone know more about the punch out method? What size rod, how long? Does it work pretty easy? And lastly does it sound good?

Seems like the 4 hole method sounds really farty. Does either of these methods make it pop more?
I had 5, 1/2" holes in mine . I could hear the popping more. I don't think it was really popping more than before , I just think I could hear it more because it was louder. Sounded really good though.

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I originally did the 4 1/2 holes then to 8. I got bored 1 day so I connected couple of holes with a jig saw then took a saw all, stupid autocorrect, once had most of baffle cut I ruined my dremel removing most of back baffle then I pounded out the center pipe. Not as loud as my bro's mean streak 1600 with V&H pipes but a lot deeper tone. I just head tech where I bought the bike take it for a test ride..... Very nice tone and volume from behind under hard accel :) and I could hear him coming back as well. Oh yeah I also took a 1 or 3/4 inch hole saw and ran it up the center pipe, I did that before the day I got bored. Only thing really left is removing the cat material, which I heard is a pain in the a$$
 

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LandShark said:
So I'm just taking a stab, but this would void my warranty if I did this, right? I love my Stryker, but the factoory pipes are the dumbest idea they had. I hate the design and I loathe the sound. Any advise would be appreciated. (Planning on buying aftermarkets, but that's going to wait a while)
I was in the same boat. So I bought the Cobra Slip on for $215 and the sound is great. This was a temp. install till I can afford the pipes I really want, but these sound and perform so great I may wait a lot longer now till I change them.
 

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Showed my wife the posts about drilling out the pipes yesterday... she loved the idea so much she dragged me outside to do it right then. Sounds a **** of a lot better. Even makes the ride more enjoyable being able to finally hear my exhaust over my engine. Thanks to everyone who suggested this as a temp until I can afford the aftermarkets.
 

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BiggTimber said:
I don't think that if effected my bikes performance, but I'm also goosing it more because of the sound.

I did notice that engine braking is reduced with the lower back pressure. It's still works, just not as good.
i have to agree... i have (5) 1/2" holes in each and the throttle controle is alot easier w/o as much engine break with that being said, i have aslo noticed a little better mpg cause i will coast more with less of an engine break.
 

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clar2001 said:
Don't drill it just punch the plug at the end of the baffle ,use a long rod dwon the hole and just punch the end of it same affect better look.
I drilled out my baffles too, but the biggest change comes with the combination of 5 holes 1/2" each and drilling out the baffles down the pipe. I went to Harbor Freight and bought ones for metal. I think I used 3/8" bc the hole was 1/2". You need a good drill and a chuck to convert to accept sockets. I used an impact gun and it went through like butter. Make sure you wrap all your CONNECTIONS with electrical tape bc you don't want to lose parts you need down the whole especially once your stater bit goes in the baffle. I think I also used a 12" extension. Could have been 18". You'll feel the starter bit go in then, once you feel it jump forward about a 1/2", STOP and pull and wiggle it out gently. It's not very hard to do and don't be scared. Just don't be a animal.

Also I used a hole punch to make my locations for my 5 - 1/2" holes, then used a much smaller drill to start the holes first. NOTE: The drill may walk on you. Just be patient and work on your angle going in. It's easier from going out toward the hole at say 45 degrees. Once I was done, I took a piece of cardboard and cupped it inside the chrome of the exhaust and spray painted inside the cardboard with black RustOleum to cover the now uncovered metal.
 
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