Great to hear you are as happy as the rest of us that did this Mod. Good going SD!
Front Pulley Change
In another thread I was asking for help in changing out the front pulley wheel, let me just follow up by saying unless you have the proper air gun, don’t bother trying it yourself. A ½” ratchet with 30mm socket won’t get the nut to budge! Long story short I took my bike into the shop this morning and they swapped out my stock 31-tooth pulley wheel for the 30 tooth (off of the VStar 1300) and only charged me $41 to do the swap. First thing I checked before riding off was belt tension and wheel alignment and they were perfect.
Results: totally awesome & highly recommended. Best way I can describe it – this is the way the bike should have been set up from the factory, it just feels right. That huge gap between 1st & 2nd is gone (you know when you are behind cars and moving too slow to be in 2nd but 1st winds the motor up). The shift between gears feels more natural, I don’t have to run the engine up as high shifting from 2nd to 3rd to avoid a lugging feel. Obviously it’s much quicker. Haven’t had a chance to do a top-end speed run, will do that soon when I have time to travel out to the back highway roads.
I did do a speedometer check however. BTW I’m still running stock tires, only have 4,400m on the bike, plan to burn these off this summer and go to 240 rear with matching front. So I tested my speedo right after purchase when I noticed it was off and found it to read +5-6mph faster than what I was actually traveling. This was consistent with everyone else’s Stryker. Just to re-check, yesterday I mounted my Garmin GPS and when the Stryker speedo read 70mph the GPS showed 65mph. So +5. Today after swapping the pulley wheel I tested again and now it’s at +7. Speedo reads 70 and GPS reads 63. Speedo reads 80 and GPS reads 73. From what Shane and some of the guys are saying, going to the 240 or 250 rear should correct the speedo issue. Looking forward to that..
Results: totally awesome & highly recommended. Best way I can describe it – this is the way the bike should have been set up from the factory, it just feels right. That huge gap between 1st & 2nd is gone (you know when you are behind cars and moving too slow to be in 2nd but 1st winds the motor up). The shift between gears feels more natural, I don’t have to run the engine up as high shifting from 2nd to 3rd to avoid a lugging feel. Obviously it’s much quicker. Haven’t had a chance to do a top-end speed run, will do that soon when I have time to travel out to the back highway roads.
I did do a speedometer check however. BTW I’m still running stock tires, only have 4,400m on the bike, plan to burn these off this summer and go to 240 rear with matching front. So I tested my speedo right after purchase when I noticed it was off and found it to read +5-6mph faster than what I was actually traveling. This was consistent with everyone else’s Stryker. Just to re-check, yesterday I mounted my Garmin GPS and when the Stryker speedo read 70mph the GPS showed 65mph. So +5. Today after swapping the pulley wheel I tested again and now it’s at +7. Speedo reads 70 and GPS reads 63. Speedo reads 80 and GPS reads 73. From what Shane and some of the guys are saying, going to the 240 or 250 rear should correct the speedo issue. Looking forward to that..
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Silverridge- I bought a genuine Star pulley wheel and paid $200.
Usmarinedelta- here are the pics you asked for. As for belt tension, it should move up about 1 mark with reasonable finger pressure. You can see the before and after pic here as it lifts about 1 notch. As for rear axel hash marks, here’s a pic but it really doesn’t matter as long as both hash mark sides are even.
Highly recomend this mod!
Usmarinedelta- here are the pics you asked for. As for belt tension, it should move up about 1 mark with reasonable finger pressure. You can see the before and after pic here as it lifts about 1 notch. As for rear axel hash marks, here’s a pic but it really doesn’t matter as long as both hash mark sides are even.
Highly recomend this mod!
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