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Discussion Starter #1
Here is my installation of the Gman Bully FI Controller (review is at the bottom of the page):

http://www.gmanindustries.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=824&idcategory=29

Obviously read your instructions first and start with the basics of removing the seat, disconnecting the ground from the battery, and gaining access to the Injectors. I removed the gas tank previously to install my Air Horn and clean up the install of my handlebar speaker wires etc., so the gas tank is off.
My hands wouldn't have reached very easily anyway so you may need to remove the gas tank too. (This forum has lots of help about how to do it)

Here is where the injectors are from the left side of the bike, for me the front cylinder would have been very difficult without the gas tank removed. The Bully harness clips can connect to either cylinder, front or rear doesn't matter.


Here is the Bully connected from the left side of the bike and I routed the lines with the controller over to the right side of the bike.

I routed the Bully up along the top of the frame, under the front end covers. (Also the Ground Wire I routed back towards the seat to reach the ground of the battery) I chose to gather the extra cable together and secure it with a tie, and the Bully comes out the top. It is designed to be mounted on the handle bars, but I don't have any more room. I have a amplifier mounted in front of the handle bars and I mounted the Bully under the Speedo, to the back of the Amplifier. My windshield covers everything and it doesn't look bad.


Here is a couple final shots with the Bully Mounted with Velcro to the back of my Speaker Amplifier. The Amplifier stays pretty cool with the air that blows behind the windshield right over it. The Bully is upside down, which doesn't matter to me. It can be mounted very nicely on your handle bars and Gman sells a custom mount too, or make your own.


Also you should disconnect the 02 Sensor on the right side of the bike behind the lower panel with the push pin holder.
Obviously secure all wires away from any heat or moving parts and your set.
You can read about the features of this FI Controller at the Gman site.
It has allot of adjustability with the push of a button right on the unit and LED read outs that show real time fuel usage.

Review:

My Stryker has pipes drilled , 4- 1/2 inch holes & Center pipe 1" hole drilled out. I also did the Open Airbox Mod and K&N Filter.
I rode 150 miles today to test it, city and highway, and to elevation about 1000 feet higher than where I am now. Right out of the box, no additional adjustments were needed, this Gman Bully works fantastic. No surging at any speed, much quicker throttle response, and smoother acceleration. I thought my Stryker rode great before, but it is really impressive now. Smooth and steady at extremely low speed manuvers, and just a small twist of the throttle and "boom", I jumped from 70 to 100 instantly (passing a car).
I didn't realize that I was twisting the throttle so far to compensate for the bike's factory setup. Feels like a different bike now.
This being said, if your concerned about gas mileage you can set the bully to conserve at cruise speed, or any combination you want. And it's done right from your handlebars by pushing as button. Gman also is excellent with customer service. responds very quickly to questions and rides what he sells.

I don't get or expect anything out of this, other than returning the favor and helping fellow bikers.
Hope this helps and the results bring a smile to your face!

Later,
Bill
StrykerBill
Phoenix, AZ
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have been riding with my Gman Bully for a couple weeks and here are the settings that seem the best for me for smooth slow/high speed cruising, and fast acceleration.

I have the opened up stock air box with K&N filter, and drilled pipes (4 - 1/2" holes and drilled out center 1" hole) baffles and cat are still intact. And disconnected the 02 sensor.

On your Controller, usually installed on your handle bars, set the Green Light (idle/cruise) for 2 lights - 1&2, set the Yellow Light (acceleration) also for 2 lights - 1&2, and the Red Light (full throttle) on the #2 with one red light.

Directions from Gman:
"Each mode represents the following functions which will help with your tuning.
Green Mode - Fuel settings for idle/cruise and is represented by a flashing Green LED.
Yellow Mode - Fuel settings for acceleration and is represented by a flashing Yellow LED.
Red Mode - Fuel settings for full throttle and is represented by a flashing Red LED.
Green/Blue Mode - Adjusts what rpm the Bully comes on line. This adjustment is useful to determine if the Bully is affecting the performance of your bike at low speeds or idle.
Yellow/Blue Mode - Is the Load Based adjustment for the Yellow Fuel mode. Adjusting the Yellow LED to a higher number delays transition from Green to Yellow Fuel Mode. (Delaying transition into the Yellow Fuel Mode can increase cruising fuel economy under steady throttle conditions)
Red/Blue Mode - Is the Load Based adjustment for the Red Fuel mode. Adjusting the Red LED to a higher number delays transition from Yellow to Red Fuel Mode. (Delaying transition into the Red Fuel Mode can reduce power during full throttle roll-ons, leaving this adjustment for the experienced dyno tuner."

"To make changes to the Bully on a bike Running Lean or with Lean Surging issues follow these steps:
• With engine idling, push the center Mode button once. The Green light (Green Mode) should start flashing, if not push the mode button until only the flashing Green light appears.
• While the Green lights is flashing, push the (+) Right Button, adding fuel to the Green (Cruise) Circuit (the target is to add enough fuel to stop the bike from it’s lean condition, usually adding 1 light will do the job)
• The Bully will reset itself to this new setting within five seconds of no button activity then the Green light will stop flashing. (You can ride during the five second program acceptance period with no problem).
• Go for a ride, noting if the lean condition is minimized or stops. If not, add ½ light more and retest until satisfied.
Fuel Mileage Maximization: (Fuel Mileage Increasing)
To adjust for Maximum Fuel Mileage make sure the Green LED’s are displayed during your chosen reasonable cruising speed. If the Yellow light is showing while at constant cruise, adjust the Yellow/ Blue Mode to a slightly higher Yellow LED setting (Blue light does not adjust). This will move the cruising LED back to Green increasing fuel mileage at your desired cruising range, possibly decreasing power slightly. To regain power change the Yellow/ Blue LEDs back to the previous setting when the cruise portion is complete."
"Helpful Information for Advanced Tuners:
• Familiarize yourself with how your bike feels running lean and rich so you know the difference so you can tune accordingly.
• Most bikes perform best on the edge of leanness and even though extra lean can net better fuel mileage it can also reduce performance, increase heat and shorten the bikes longevity.
• The Green, Yellow, Red Modes are Fuel Modes. Increasing/Decreasing LED’s for these Modes changes the fuel used while in those modes.
• Green Mode should be considered Economy Mode, Yellow Accelerate Mode while Red is Wide Open.
• The Yellow/Blue & Red/Blue Modes are Load Based adjustments for transitioning between the Green to Yellow and Yellow to Red Fuel Modes respectively. Increasing the Y/B and R/B LED’s increases required throttle pressures to transition into the next higher fuel mode.
• For improved mileage (see info above) at the higher sustained freeway speeds when the Yellow LED’s are showing, select Yellow/Blue Mode and increase the Yellow LED light. This will delay the transition to the Accelerate Mode and move you into Green (cruise) Mode for better mileage.
• Remember to keep these instructions handy and if you get confused just restore the original light settings for your Stage and try again. It’s that simple.
• Your light settings should never vary more than 1-2 LED’s either way for your selected Stage.
• LED’s during riding display pulse width. Pulse Width is basically how much fuel is being used. The more LED’s that show means the more fuel being used at that time."

Enjoy your ride, I am!

Bill
Phjoenix, AZ
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No popping or back fire.
I'm thinking about going to the Cobra Slip On then all I have to do is adjust the LED if it needs it. I used this FI on 2 other bikes and it works great.
You could even change settings for fuel savings or more power while your riding .
Bill
 

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thanks for the review and install. This sounds heads and tails better then the cobra auto + less expensive. The bully is now ob my list.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The Cobra Auto supposedly "automatically" is adjusting "constantly" from what I've read, but I also have heard about allot of bugs and not working correctly and needing replacements.

The Bully advantage is you can control your own settings, even as you ride and adjust on the fly. And you don't have to stop and remove the seat to change settings, or use a screw driver--you just push a button with live LED's showing the response - pretty cool.

Bill
 

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Stryker Bill, I installed my bully controller. however, when i stared my bike the green light never stops blinking. did yours do this also? i am waiting to call into Gman but thought i'd ask you in the meantime. The idle seems fine but according to the instructions, you are supposed to get a steady green light.
 

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For those of us without fairings how clean does the control set look, and is there a spot to tuck it away where you can still access it?
 

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Johnboy said:
Stryker Bill, I installed my bully controller. however, when i stared my bike the green light never stops blinking. did yours do this also? i am waiting to call into Gman but thought i'd ask you in the meantime. The idle seems fine but according to the instructions, you are supposed to get a steady green light.
I have one and it blinks while idling. I called about it to.
 

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I talked to Gary at Gman and he said that the blinking is ok. If you turn the throttle the lights will turn to steady green. I noticed a differance witht his controller and the fact thtat you can change your settings is great. I think Gman needs to do a better job writing their instructions.
 

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How often do you guys actually change the settings? I ask for the simple fact that after pipes and air box, can it be set in performance mode and hidden under the seat. After those 2 mods there isn't much to change that would require auto tuning.

Just started for reference, I don't care about gas mileage so I wouldn't change it anyway.

Thanks in advance
 

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I have mine installed under the seat because I didn't want to be distracted by the LED dislplay. I had to change settings once to eliminate a slightly lean condition and then I was good. I am running with V&H pipes, and a Barron's big flow air kit. The controller works great and the bike runs like a champ.
 
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