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I was wondering if anyone has put a bigger cam in their stryker and if so has it changed the performance and sound. Also how big of a cam did you replace the old one with.
Has anyone put a bigger cam in their star stryker
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Well my local star dealer and owner of the shop said he could put one in for 500 bucks and It would give the bike that HD lobed out sound. Not sure if its bs or not. Havnt been able to find anything on the Internet but I havnt really tried that hard. I figure a two or three size bigger cam would really wake the stryker up though. It has the wheels turning that's for sure.
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Without innovation we would still be driving model T's.UrbanRage said:
The lope on the Harley comes from the long stroke and firing order more than the cam timing, I believe. I ride a Shovelhead as well as the Stryker. Both are pleasing but in different ways. The Stryker is much more fun for me although the Harley handles a little better in the curves. I sit "on" the Harley and sit "in" the Stryker and go much faster on the Stryker. No surprise here...the Harley is 30 years old. ;D
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HDs get the loping sound from the more radical cam that they have from the factory the lobes are bigger on the cam causing the valves to say open longer allowing more gas to enter the cylinder causing a larger combustion which in turn makes the increased loping sound. But all in all I think I agree with you both bikes have a great and unique sound that is all their own. I am more curious as to how the increased cam size will increase the performance of an already awesome machine. It's winter here where I live so I won't be doing anything to my ride till this spring. I am hoping someone has already done this if possible so I have a base line to work off of this spring. Thanks everyone for the continued input. Can't wait to here some more.
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The Stryker is a very under-powered bike, but doing a few external mods to help it “breath” you can bring it to life to become a very responsive machine. But I seriously doubt that cracking open the engine and replacing parts will result in a performance/cost-reward investment. If you feel the need to do that I would start with a different bike. Just a thought..
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Replace the front pulley with the Vstar 1300 front pulley, you will be pleased with the results, turned mine into a screamer
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Great idea thanks have been thinking about changing the pulley also. To me the price was right for the stryker and I can have fun moding and tinkering with the extra money I saved instead of going with the raider. I liked the size feel and ride better then the raider. But both bikes are great bikes.
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Interesting. So basically this is what you would do to make the bike quicker off the line right? And since it can’t reach redline in 5th anyway you probably aren’t sacrificing any top end either.. am I on track here? Any drawbacks? 1st / 2nd gear winding up too often?StrykenShane said:
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You will lose some top speed but I didn't buy mine to go top speed, but the takeoff is awesome now and it levels out the gears, all the credit goes to 11Stryker, he was the one to do it 1st
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Lets make sure everyone has a clear understanding of what makes the unique sound of a running HD and what it is caused by. It's the design of the "V" configuration being close together and the connecting rods to a single crank pin and the piston firing order one right after the other and a pause while the crank makes another revelation before firing again. Making the pop-pop-- pause--- pop-pop-- pause--- pop-pop sound as opposed to a more steady pop-pop-pop-pop.kbaker1985 said:
http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/1464309/posts
http://www.wildwestcycle.com/f_firing.html
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Got this from google;
If you reduce the number of teeth of the rear sprocket, you will reduce the rpm's at cruising speed.
If you reduce the number of teeth of the front sprocket, you will increase the rpm's at cruising speed.
Divide the number of teeth of front sprocket into rear sprocket.
This is your final drive ratio.
Say 15/45 = 3.00
Change the rear 45 for a 43 tooth sprocket.
15/43 = 2.867. This ratio will reduce the rpm's at cruising speed.
Smaller the number, the less rpm's needed at a given speed.
31/70=2.258
30/70=2.333
Not really much difference
If you reduce the number of teeth of the rear sprocket, you will reduce the rpm's at cruising speed.
If you reduce the number of teeth of the front sprocket, you will increase the rpm's at cruising speed.
Divide the number of teeth of front sprocket into rear sprocket.
This is your final drive ratio.
Say 15/45 = 3.00
Change the rear 45 for a 43 tooth sprocket.
15/43 = 2.867. This ratio will reduce the rpm's at cruising speed.
Smaller the number, the less rpm's needed at a given speed.
31/70=2.258
30/70=2.333
Not really much difference
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