[usmarinedelta]

Someone else posted up a pic how it looked and I wanted to show my process as well. This was kind of a pain. It required about $50 worth of supplies.

It took 5 days, 4 of it was soaking in concentrated bleach. Every 24 hours I would wear gloves, and scrub them under warm water with a wire brush then replace the bleach. Then the last day I let it sit in Muriatic acid. I spend an hour or so with various dremel attachments sanding off the rest of the copper underneath the chrome. I also hand sand everything to give a rough surface for when I paint them. The weather here has been cold/rainy so I figure why not do this since I won't be riding the bike. Just have to wait till it gets warm to paint.

The benefit of doing this is eventually all painted over chrome parts will flake. I spoke to a professional body shop who restores classics and he said he did his grille once and in 3 months it slowly started chipping. I'm assuming the copper/nickle under the chrome is porous causing it to vent and flake? Sanding it to bare plastic is the best way to ensure that it won't flake off. If you have any questions let me know! :thumb:

Oh and I did try plasti-dip, had ok results but here's why I hate it. If it peels/flakes you would have to redo the entire thing, you can't "touch up" and have it smooth. Also the headlight is a pain, you would have to take everything apart to redo it and getting the wires back in through the back will cause it to rub on the edge causing it to rub off.

 

[bmoreraven]

Looks good. I just scuffed up plastic with some sandpaper then primed and painted. It's been about 9 months and still have not noticed any chipping. I'm in the same predicament with the cold rainy weather, I just got my LED kit and wanna install it.

 

[usmarinedelta]

Ok here's an update. They came out looking horrible because I messed up, the scratches from the sandpaper show and look bad. Well I left them black and plan on using plasti-dip over it, so even if it chips, it's still black underneath.

 

[mikoloe]

no plasti dip son, just a few more coats.... :thumb: Heck you still cant ride till summer. whats that 3 more months ?:thumb:

 

[christopher]

It wouldn't take much to scuff them up a little and shoot them with a couple coats of fill primer. Then sand them down with some 1000 grit. Do this couple of times and they will look really nice. And you don't even have to breath anymore bleach.

 

[Mr monte]

Ok here's an update. They came out looking horrible because I messed up, the scratches from the sandpaper show and look bad...

Did you do any sanding after 1st round of primer? If so what grit?

At this point you could wet sand with 320 to clear up those scratches & prime/paint again & will look much better. After wet sanding pour some water on the part then what you see is close to what the painted surface should look like.

 

[usmarinedelta]

Here's what I did, I cleaned them up with rubbing alcohol. Then I saw the small scratches which I assume the paint would have filled but guess not. So what I did was take adhesion promoter, sprayed it on twice (did not sand) and just started painting. From what I've read I thought adhesion promoter and paint was enough. So what you folks are saying is to wet sand, then adhesion promoter and primer?

 

[kraaazymike]

Here's what I did, I cleaned them up with rubbing alcohol. Then I saw the small scratches which I assume the paint would have filled but guess not. So what I did was take adhesion promoter, sprayed it on twice (did not sand) and just started painting. From what I've read I thought adhesion promoter and paint was enough. So what you folks are saying is to wet sand, then adhesion promoter and primer?

Here's what I would personally do: hit it all with ~180 sand paper until all the scratches are gone. Then work your way up to 1000 grit until the surface is uniform and smooth. Then wash with mild soap and water. Spray adhesion promoter, at least two coats of primer. Wetsand primer with 1000-1200 grit until surface is smooth, dont' sand through the primer though. Shoot at least two-three coats of color. Use two-three coats of clear to really make it pop.

When it comes to painting, 95% of the job is the prep. You half-ass the prep then it will always show in the end.

OR, sand it all down until the surface is smooth then plasti-dip everything. Much easier.

 

[christopher]

I wouldn't try to sand the scratches out because then it make the plastic thin and weak. You should build it up with fill primer. dry sand it with 400 untill the scrathes disappear. It will probably take about three coats. Make sure its sandable fill primer. The coats are good and thick.

 

[usmarinedelta]

Thanks, the scratches just look deeper than they are in the pics, they are not that deep at all hence I thought the paint would cover it but I guess that's what primer's for. I didn't know that Primer was used to fill in scratches, I just that it's to make the paint stick more but thought I didn't need it since I used adhesion promoter. I'm planning on dry sanding with 400 then up to 800, then use primer for a few coats. Now do I have to sand in between the coats of primer? Thanks again folks.

 

[christopher]

Yes because as you sand each coat the low spots will disappear. Before you paint it again wet sand with some 1000.

 

[Mr monte]

When doing body repair I dry sand & may use 80 grit then work up to a higher grit. When its time to work out the sanding scratches I like to start off with 2-3 coats of high build primer then wet sand with 320 or even 400 grit. Reprime again then wet sand with 600 before painting.

Always use a degreaser on the surface before painting.

The primer will fill in the scratches so the surface is smooth.

 

[usmarinedelta]

Ok, question. What's the point of wetsand? To reduce friction? I bought some 400 and 800 grit sandpaper yesterday. I was going to sand it with 400, clean. Then 800, then primer? Is that a bad way?

 

[mikoloe]

Alright young soldier, if you have to ask then you already know the answer. Or you can just buy new ones they way you want them. There are a lot of veterans here with a lot of knowledge. :nod:

 

[usmarinedelta]

Alright young soldier, if you have to ask then you already know the answer. Or you can just buy new ones they way you want them. There are a lot of veterans here with a lot of knowledge. :nod:

If I have to ask obviously I don't know, I know there's lots of veterans hence I'm asking :thumb:

Some say wetsand in between coats of primer but some say just drysand then primer. Obviously I suck at this hence I'm asking.

 

[Mr monte]

Ok, question. What's the point of wetsand? To reduce friction? I bought some 400 and 800 grit sandpaper yesterday. I was going to sand it with 400, clean. Then 800, then primer? Is that a bad way?

With wet sanding you have a wet mess vs a dusty mess.
Wet sanding doesn't leave as deep as scratches vs dry sanding giving the same grit. (this could be all in my head)
Wet sanding keeps the sand paper cleaner so it doesn't clog up.

If you still see scratches (other than what the 400 grit leaves) after sanding with 400 grit then you need to prime again then resand.

About 90% of a paint job is the pre paint prep. The painting show how good your prep was.

 

[usmarinedelta]

Thanks!