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A while back I decided to tackle this and change my original flush brake light to this (See here: http://www.yamahastarstryker.com/20-how-tos/3218-how-flush-brake-light-fender.html ). Because I knew that someday I wanted to change the 210 to a 240/250. The problem was that as it stood, the light mount stood a good chance of being torn off with a larger tire. This way, we eliminate the extra mounting hardware and make room for clearance for a larger tire. 3,000 miles in all weather and so far so good; minus legality problems. These blaster units aren't DOT approved and I've been stopped twice for them now in CA.

Points to consider about this tutorial:
-This tutorial will not cover wiring installation. Each brand is different, therefore you should follow your wiring diagrams for your lighting setup.
-This does not include a way to mount the license plate. My setup includes a side mount plate which is not detailed here.
-Turn signals are integrated in my brake light. If you require separate lights for turn signals, this is not detailed here.

Here is the stock setup (except brake light is a Blaster-x in a smoked housing)


1: I find it easier to take the fender off and actually be able to work in an open space. If you need help removing the fender, check out step 1 in the link above.


2: Cut the plastic mounting piece to resemble the above left piece in the picture below. We will eliminate the metal mounting piece entirely. Also, you will notice the new brackets we will be using. I picked these up from home depot: simple 4" metal 90 degree brackets bent to any angle you want. I drilled new holes in these to accommodate the light position.


A better look at the brackets:


3: Secure the OEM wire harness to the inside of the plastic piece with zip ties and mount it to the inside of the fender as usual to keep the wiring out of the way.


4: Install the brake light and brackets to the side with the original 10mm bolts.


5: Finished Product:
 

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Mike you are the best. Im going to have my guy clean this up for me as he followed your original instructions but not as well as he could. Thanks again for alk the oms and communication. Also I hope everything is working out for you with those tickets!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You're most welcome, Jennifer! I was able to get signed off on my exhaust today by the local Highway Patrol. Even he told me that he doesn't bother with tickets like that and that some officers well, you know.
 

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I strolled into the CHP with the OEM setup. Then changed it back when I got home to make this writeup for ojhendrix. I bought the unmolested parts used from here so I could go to the CHP without leaving with another ticket
That's one way to be safe. I'll keep my fingers crossed that I don't ever get hassled for the Blaster X tail light. I also am not sure if my pipe is too loud. Maybe one day I will run across some other Strykers with aftermarket pipes.. maybe here how mine compare.
 

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I will add that mounting the blaster under the fender the way Kraaazymike has will clear the 240 tire, even after lowering the rear over 1.75"
The OTHER way will not.
If you try the other way to mount it flush, or tucked under the tire will rip it off and break things when you go over a speed bump :frown:

Ask me how I know!

I'll be making some of these simpler "L" brackets for mine now so I can tuck it under.
 

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I will add that mounting the blaster under the fender the way Kraaazymike has will clear the 240 tire, even after lowering the rear over 1.75"
The OTHER way will not.
If you try the other way to mount it flush, or tucked under the tire will rip it off and break things when you go over a speed bump :frown:

Ask me how I know!
This has not been my experience. I have my Blaster X light flush mounted the way Kraaazymike originally posted...I'm running the Avon 240 lowered 2.25" and have had zero clearance issues even with a passenger.
 

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This has not been my experience. I have my Blaster X light flush mounted the way Kraaazymike originally posted...I'm running the Avon 240 lowered 2.25" and have had zero clearance issues even with a passenger.
I mounted mine the "Other way" he showed in the other thread (Here) and the tire hit the bottom of the metal piece that the light attaches to, not the light itself, and bent the bolts to where I had to limp the bike home a hundred yards.
Doing the mount the way described in THIS thread eliminates the remaining metal plate that the light mounts to and give (The way it looks) an additional couple inches or so.
Once I adjusted the long screws tighter and pulled the light out from under the fender it no longer hit.
 

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I am doing this now. I am using the L brackets, but I didn't bend them like in the instructions above. I guess I'll see how it all fits together in the end. I am also trying to find a way to protect the wires, and not use any of the original plastic components. When I'm done I'll post some pics (if it turns out)
 

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I am doing this now. I am using the L brackets, but I didn't bend them like in the instructions above. I guess I'll see how it all fits together in the end. I am also trying to find a way to protect the wires, and not use any of the original plastic components. When I'm done I'll post some pics (if it turns out)
Use wire heat shrink tube to protect the wires.
 
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