Joined
·
956 Posts
Progressive Front Springs part #11-1126
This kit comes with 1-10" spacer, 2-washers and 2 coil springs.
Tools neeed - Half inch drive socket to fit the cap (sorry I can't remember what size it was), rachet and 6 inch extension, 10 weight fork oil. (The reason for half inch is to ensure stability and maneuverability.)
Cover any painted surfaces to avoid dripping fork oil on them.
Jack the bike up and tie it down. If you have a chin scoop you may want to remove it to be sure the bottom part of the scoop is not damaged by the jack.
Raise the jack until the front wheel is off the ground and the forks are fully extended.
Have someone hold the bars while you remove the fork caps. The fork caps are a cast material so take care not to drop them and are about 3/4 inches long in the tube but the top of the cap is only 1/4 where you place the socket. You will need to keep downward pressure on the caps when removing them as there will be a slight amount of pressure forcing back toward you. You don't want to have the socket slip and strip the top nut. You don't want to get smacked with a steel spacer or have the fork cap strip on the last few threads as it comes out. (KEEP THE PRESSURE ON Until you are sure - remember the thread portion is 3/4 long this will help you determine if it is safe to relieve the pressure).
Once the caps are off, remove the spacer and lower the jack to bring the washer and spring closer to the top of the fork. You can remove the washer and spring with your fingers if they are long enough or use a hook or metal coat hanger (caution not to drop anything in the forks or scratch the inside of the tube).
Install the new springs, one end of the spring will be tighter wound then the other it won't matter which end goes in first. (Mine came out with the tight wound portion at the top but I installed mine with the tight wound portion down to be sure there was no noise.
Install the washer (supplied with the new springs), one on each side. When you drop them in be sure they lay flat on the tops of the springs. If they are not flat use a long screw driver or coat hanger to maneuver them flat.
If you lost any fluid during uninstall now is the time to replace it. With the forks compressed and only the spring and washer in use 10 weight fork oil to replace any fluid lost. Having the forks compressed at this point will help you be sure that the forks are evenly filled.
Time for the spacers. The spacer supplied with the kit is only 10 inches long and when split in half will be to short. You will need to reuse your stock spacers and cut them shorter. As a rule of thumb with the forks fully extended and spacer installed the top of the spacer should be flush with the top of the fork tube. I found that this caused the bike to lose some of it's height in the front and be a little to soft.
So with the tubes fully extended and the spacers in, I measured one inch above the top of the tube and cut the spacers there. (Approxiamately 6 3/4 inches - this may vary on yours so be sure to measure.).
Let's button it up - With the forks fully extended and someone holding the bars, place the cap over the spacer and push down. Once the cap starts to seat caution not to cross threads on the cap or over tighten it. I found it easier to use a 6 inch extension to help with downward force and tighten them.
This kit comes with 1-10" spacer, 2-washers and 2 coil springs.
Tools neeed - Half inch drive socket to fit the cap (sorry I can't remember what size it was), rachet and 6 inch extension, 10 weight fork oil. (The reason for half inch is to ensure stability and maneuverability.)
Cover any painted surfaces to avoid dripping fork oil on them.
Jack the bike up and tie it down. If you have a chin scoop you may want to remove it to be sure the bottom part of the scoop is not damaged by the jack.
Raise the jack until the front wheel is off the ground and the forks are fully extended.
Have someone hold the bars while you remove the fork caps. The fork caps are a cast material so take care not to drop them and are about 3/4 inches long in the tube but the top of the cap is only 1/4 where you place the socket. You will need to keep downward pressure on the caps when removing them as there will be a slight amount of pressure forcing back toward you. You don't want to have the socket slip and strip the top nut. You don't want to get smacked with a steel spacer or have the fork cap strip on the last few threads as it comes out. (KEEP THE PRESSURE ON Until you are sure - remember the thread portion is 3/4 long this will help you determine if it is safe to relieve the pressure).
Once the caps are off, remove the spacer and lower the jack to bring the washer and spring closer to the top of the fork. You can remove the washer and spring with your fingers if they are long enough or use a hook or metal coat hanger (caution not to drop anything in the forks or scratch the inside of the tube).
Install the new springs, one end of the spring will be tighter wound then the other it won't matter which end goes in first. (Mine came out with the tight wound portion at the top but I installed mine with the tight wound portion down to be sure there was no noise.
Install the washer (supplied with the new springs), one on each side. When you drop them in be sure they lay flat on the tops of the springs. If they are not flat use a long screw driver or coat hanger to maneuver them flat.
If you lost any fluid during uninstall now is the time to replace it. With the forks compressed and only the spring and washer in use 10 weight fork oil to replace any fluid lost. Having the forks compressed at this point will help you be sure that the forks are evenly filled.
Time for the spacers. The spacer supplied with the kit is only 10 inches long and when split in half will be to short. You will need to reuse your stock spacers and cut them shorter. As a rule of thumb with the forks fully extended and spacer installed the top of the spacer should be flush with the top of the fork tube. I found that this caused the bike to lose some of it's height in the front and be a little to soft.
So with the tubes fully extended and the spacers in, I measured one inch above the top of the tube and cut the spacers there. (Approxiamately 6 3/4 inches - this may vary on yours so be sure to measure.).
Let's button it up - With the forks fully extended and someone holding the bars, place the cap over the spacer and push down. Once the cap starts to seat caution not to cross threads on the cap or over tighten it. I found it easier to use a 6 inch extension to help with downward force and tighten them.
