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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's a lift some members from the ol VolusiaOwnersLeague created. A lot of us on that foerum wound up building these. Sturdy and easy to use to get the bike level.


Here's a link to the PDF, and I'll put the instructions below so everyoen can see before downloading.
http://www.mediafire.com/?mzqa5r99q9ax3k9
Inexpensive Bike Lift
Design by Rikko / Photos by Rikko, Zeb_UK

Here is the shopping list: (If you already have some of them laying around your garage you'll $ave even more!)

Qty Item
1 3 ft. long 4" x 8" (2 3’ 2”x8” pieces can be used bolted together)
1 4' x 3/4" galv. threaded pipe
1 3/4" galvanized pipe flange
4 3" x 1/4” lag bolts
6 3” x 5/16” lag bolts if bolting together 2”x8” pieces

You'll need the following tools to assemble your lift:
• Pencil & Ruler
• Electric Drill. You WILL run down a cordless drill!
• 1” & 1 ¼” Paddle bore drill bit (Will cost about $5 at Home Depot)
• 3/16" Wood drill bit
• Socket set to tighten lag bolts
• Small pipe wrench


Instructions:
1. Locate and mark a point on the 8" wide side of the 4"x8"x3' piece of wood that is 3 " from end and on the centerline of its length
2. Using the 1” paddle bore drill bit, drill a hole through the 4" thickness of the wood centered at the point marked above.
3. Countersink one side of the hole with the 1 1/4” paddle bore bit so you can place the pipe flange flush into the hole with the raised part of the flange in the hole. Mark the four Lag Bolt hole locations on the wood.
4. To ease screwing in the Lag Bolts, pre-drill each lag bolt hole with the 3/16" bit.
5. Re-seat the flange in the countersunk hole, then screw the lag bolts in securely with the socket wrench.
6. Insert the 4' galvanized pipe through the bored hole threading it into the flange and tighten with the pipe wrench. You may have to tap the pipe into the hole, Try some dish washing liquid to ease the pipe in. It’s a tight fit, allowing the pipe to take some of the load form the flange. If need be, remove the lag bolts, pull the flange out, place the pipe all the way through the hole, then tighten the flange on the pipe. Pull the assembly back down and put the lag bolts back in. Tighten the bolts, then with your pipe wrench, tighten the pipe as far as you can into the flange. Be careful, the pipe will not thread all the way to the bottom of the flange.
7. Additionally, for safety and security you might purchase two 1" eye-bolts. These would be fastened to the lift so you could run a strap through them and over the seat to keep the bike from falling on either side. Place these eyebolts a few inches from each end of the lift, on the “top” of the lift. The top would be the skinny side that faces up after you’ve lifted the bike.

Your done! You may want to paint the pipe red or orange so it stands out and alerting you not to accidentally trip on it. Another suggestion is to wrap some duct or electrical tape around the handle end of the same pipe for comfort and maybe, stapling or tacking down some old carpet over the lifting edges of the 4" x 8" will keep the wood from removing paint from your frame each time you lift your beautiful ole scoot.
To operate your lift:
Insert the wood directly under your frame somewhere beneath the engine. Check that you won't be putting pressure on something you shouldn't and insure the ground beneath your bike is level). If you can, with your left hand hold your bike upright leaving the kickstand extended outward.


Now push the handle of your new lift rearward and downward. Wah-laa! Your bike is lifted and in an upright position making it easier to work on, clean and to check the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I forgot to mention, some of us would put eye hooks on the very ends so we could attach tie down straps.

Also make sure you are clear of the oil filter. I crushed the life out of one not paying attention.
 

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This is awesome. I saw one of these from some company online and it was like $119 or so. It's super simple, and fairly easy to find a place to store it. I was like, there's gotta be a way to make one of these for just a few bucks. And this is it. Looks awesome. I'll probably build one soon. Thanks for the info!
 

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BigDaddyTX said:
I forgot to mention, some of us would put eye hooks on the very ends so we could attach tie down straps.

Also make sure you are clear of the oil filter. I crushed the life out of one not paying attention.
thanks again
 

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I own a bike lift but its at my brothers house, i live in an apartment this would be perfect to check oil before a ride.
 

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Roger said:
I own a bike lift but its at my brothers house, i live in an apartment this would be perfect to check oil before a ride.
forgive me if this is a stupid question but don't you want to check the oil when the engine is warm?
 

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StrykenShane said:
Roger said:
I own a bike lift but its at my brothers house, i live in an apartment this would be perfect to check oil before a ride.
forgive me if this is a stupid question but don't you want to check the oil when the engine is warm?
No such thing as a stupid question in my book. I was going to check the book and see what it said but i just wanted to give you my reasoning if the bike is level and i check the oil i know i have enough for the ride if i have to wait for the oil to get warm not hot but just warm couldn't i damage the engine by not having enough oil in it? Maybe my theory is wrong?
 

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Book says " stand bike upright, warm up engine, stop, let oil settle, check oil level.
Pg. 7-11
 

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Yep, exactly what my tech at the local Yami shop said this morning, he went on to say if the oil was too low your warning light would come
 
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