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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
STEPS TO REMOVE FORKS
1. Loosen the 4 12mm bolts on front fender and remove.
2. Loosen the 2 12mm bolts holding the brake caliper to the left fork and pull it back out of the way. Tie it to the shifter peg.
3. Loosen the 2 axle holddown screws from the bottom of the right fork just below the axle. Evenly lift the bike under frame in front so that the pressure is off of the front tire. You don't have to lift far off the ground. Use tool to loosen axle (counter-clockwise) Just make sure that bike is secure before tugging on axle to loosen, it is very tight and will require some force to break it loose. Completely unscrew axle and pull it out. If needed you may tap on the other end of the axle with a wooden dowel or a #2 pencil. (Don't use a screwdriver, you may damage the threads or mushroom the axle.)
4. Once axle is out, carefully slide wheel forward and out. There is a spacer bushing on each side of the wheel. Don't lose or damage these. Now you can start the fork removal process.
5. Loosen the 2 smaller allen screws on the top triple tree fork clamp
6. Loosen the 10mm nut on the turn signal clamp. If you are not re-using the signals then also remove the 10mm nut mounting them to triple tree.
7. Loosen one of the larger allen screws on the bottom triple tree fork clamp and hold the fork while loosening the other allen screw so the fork does not drop out. Turn fork while pulling it down and out.
8. If you are not re-using turn signals, cut each wire seperately and tape them up individually until you get ready to mount lights and connect wiring.

CUSTOMIZING ROCK GUARDS
1. There is no need to remove the rock guards from forks if you are not painting or customizing. Clear Coat will make them black instead of charcoal gray and they will match the bottom fork assy.
2. Lay the fork on it's side and use a small block of hard wood to gently tap from the bottom side of the rock guard. Turn the fork and tap around the guard until it pops free. Slide it from the fork and customize as desired. I used a rotozip cutting disc to cut to a point and then filed and sanded to dress it up. I cleaned with alcohol and clear-coated. Let dry for 12 hrs and reinstall by aligning the groove and tapping them down onto the fork. Be careful not to damage the edges of the plastic.

MAKING/INSTALLING THE BLACK TUBE INSERTS
1. If you are using the shopvac tubes, one end is a larger diameter than the other end. Start 7" from the small end and cut it off. Move up the tube 8 7/8" and cut it off again. Try to make your cuts as straight as possible. The tubes will be too long to fit, you will need to use a sander to trim them down so that they fit snug in between the triple trees. Just keep trimming and checking fit until they are right. They need to be snug so they don't rattle or show any of the chrome from underneath.
2. Once you have checked both tubes for proper fit and cleaned up edges, check to make sure that they slide over the forks okay, clean with alcohol and let dry good. Put two light coats of Dupli-Color Clear Acrylic Enamel and let dry for 12 hours. I slid them over a broomstick to coat them and let dry.
3. Slide tubes between triple trees and reach thru with your finger and make sure that they are aligned with the fork holes so that the forks will slide up through them with no problems. Now you are ready to insert forks.

RE-INSTALLING ALL PARTS
NOTE: Don't forget to put the rock guards back on prior to installing forks.
1. Everything will be done in reverse order.
2. You don't have to worry about how the forks are turned, the bottom section will still turn even when the forks are tightened down. Insert each fork up through the bottom triple tree, into the new tube and then through the top triple tree rotating as you go. Make sure that both fork assemblies are at the exact even height with each other. You may recess them in the top triple tree but not more than 1/2".
3. When installing the front wheel, make sure that the spacer bushings are in place before you insert the axle. Tighten the axle and all other fasteners to factory specs. It's easy to forget the two allen screws below the axle. Double check all fasteners for tightness.
4. Install whatever turn signals you are using and connect wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That looks nice. But wouldn't have been easier to pull the top triple tree clamp?
Joe, you would be correct. there would be less to do but it is difficult to support the top tree section with the bars and cables while you are working. I wrote the "How To" so that it could be used to do anything on front end area. Also I wanted to customize the rock guards which requires entire fork to be removed. Sometimes you get more out of a "How To" than just what the intended project is. Let's just say that someone wanted to put on a new front tire. It is cheaper to remove your wheel yourself and take it to shop for tire change than it is to drive your sled in for tire. Now they know how. Or maybe changing a shock spring themselves. I love this forum. I have gotten so many ideas and had tons of help from everyone.
 

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I did the tubes yesterday, what a great mod. I just removed the forks (easy). The hard part was seeing if they were level on both sides when I reinstalled them. You should post a pic of the Home Depot coupler used to remove the front axle for reference as well. That coupler was a great idea reaper, it's an axle removal tool for less than $2!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did the tubes yesterday, what a great mod. I just removed the forks (easy). The hard part was seeing if they were level on both sides when I reinstalled them. You should post a pic of the Home Depot coupler used to remove the front axle for reference as well. That coupler was a great idea reaper, it's an axle removal tool for less than $2!
Thanks delta, here is the coupling that is used for axle removal tool
 

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