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Discussion Starter #1
2011 stryker... went for a short ride yesterday. Came home and put my bike away and it stalled. Look at the dash and the gages and lights flickered a bit like tourning ignition on and off....
Okay I turned the key off and back on a couple times. Sometimes power would come on and sometimes not. When it did the bike a couple times it acted like a bad battery hit the starter and just click... try it again and it would start and purr like a kitten. Finally shut it off and figured I'd charge the battery. Fully charged now and tests at 12.8 volts...
Bike is in neutral... full battery... turn key and no power... no gages nothing.... checked main fuse and its good.
Got an awesome trip coming up in 2 Weeks and I'm dead in the water...
Anyone else have this problem??? Recommendations??? Don't wanna miss my trip... thanks in advance...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got the battery last summer... kick stand up turn key on absolutely nothing... lights fuel pump nothing....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Up.... down... turn key key nothing like not having a battery installed and you turn the key on.... nothing....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not being a smart ass... want to ask for my own knowledge. The kickstand switch will stop the motor if put down in gear... if its the ks switch how does that prevent any power showing (gages.. etc). I could see it preventing starting but no power at the key???
 

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In this tutorial, we learn how to bypass the kickstand safety switch on a motorcycle. If you have broke your kickstand switch, you can easily bypass it while you are on the road so you can set your bike. All you need to do this is a piece of electric tape. If you don't have this on your bike, the vehicle will completely turn off while it's in use. To do this, unplug the switch that is the kickstand safety switch. There will be two electrical tabs in this, stick a screwdriver in them to remove the wires from each side. Next, connect these two loose wires with electrical tape, then test your bike to see if it's connected properly. When finished, place this back into a spot where you won't hit it and ride your bike!

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay so the video showed a bike that had power and it shut the motor off. I have no power to begin with. Correct me if I'm wrong but theoretically I should be able to do the bypass first. If I get power back it's definitely switch. I just don't understand how the KS switch kills all power at the key....
 

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It sounds like a bad battery to me. It may charge and hold a charge, but when loaded is bad. Or the run stop switch is bad. Your right kickstand down in gear doesn’t take all power away, you still have lights /dash power. There is a great troubleshooting Guide in the service manual for testing no power issue. Step by step. I don’t have access to it at this time or I’d post it for ya.
 

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Start with the easiest thing and make sure the cables are tight on the battery. You reported flickering power, then fine power and then no power so to me you have a break in the main power circuit(if it were just one of the other circuits then just that circuit would be affected).

If this is true, turn on ignition and no lights, gauges etc. then do the following(and I assume you have a multimeter):
  • Follow both the positive and negative cables from the battery posts to their next location. Make sure everything is tight, connected and no visual breaks.
  • Assuming that is fine, take a reading at the battery. Then take a reading from the positive battery post to ground on the bike. They should be identical or very close. Now do the same and try and wiggle the negative and then positive cables to see if there is any fluctuation(easier to do if you have alligator clips for this part)
  • Note: Often people focus on the power 12V side and forget about the ground. Bad/weak grounds can cause all sorts of electrical issues!!
  • Assuming the above was fine then I'd move to the ignition switch and associated starter relay. The service manual gives a test for these components but I'd start by making sure I have 12V present into the ignition switch. This switch/circuit is what powers up the bike so it is the next logical place for a broken circuit.
If nothing is obviously broken visually, then this becomes a point A to B to C test. My final advice is don't assume anything or skip any steps. With a long ride coming up you want to be sure you fixed it vs. just throwing parts at it and later getting stranded... :(
Also, have you done any mods semi-recently that could have affected things? Doesn't necessarily have to be electrical either. Had a buddy put a screw through a wire on a car that took 4 years to show up...

Best of luck and please post the solution!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey thanks for the info, going to try you guys recommendations and I'll get back to you.
Otherwise... please keep up with the suggestions. This is killing me knowing I got a ride coming up that I don't want to miss...
 

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Would agree with BillyD. Check battery cables and grounds. Battery may be relatively new but still be bad/weak.
 

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The Battery was my first guess but he said its a year old. The next suspect is the kickstand switch. My buddies went out, but I dont know if someones else's would go out the same way. Pending Stryker 66 response.
 

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I had a new battery fail after a year - towards the end wouldn't hold charge and no end of trouble. Some batteries are just cheap rubbish. If you're replacing, worth paying a bit more for something decent.
 

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I think you should have the battery tested. Sounds like a bad cell to me. Most places will test it for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey guys... Thanks for all the input seriously. Here's the verdict.... started at the battery and started tracing from there..... so I have my trusty voltage meter with me and i head out to spend some time with my significant other...(My Stryker).
Starting at the battery I tested it again and it read 12.72 volts.... however what caught my attention was.... (you should be able to get a good reading wherever you touch the battery posts, nuts or anything connected to the posts. So there I am trying to get a voltage reading and have to keep moving the probes around to get the battery reading. I look a little closer and the posts look like they have oxidation on them. if I scratched the post a bit it made contact.
That's when my brain light came on.... so I get my wire brushes and battery terminal spray cleaner out.... took my battery out.... cleaned the terminals on the battery as well as the bike leads. 15 minutes later it's reinstalled and I hit the key....... SHE's Purring like a kitten again boys..... I kinda feel a bit silly but in all my years with cars and bikes that was a first for me. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. You all pretty much reassured what I was already thinking as far as a cure.
Woot!... Woot! boys's... going cruising in Colorado state and nation forests in 2 weeks. Beautiful out there... thanks a million guys. Stay safe and have some fun ridging this summer guys.
Thanks Again.....
 

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**** mountain air! Get some terminal protector it’s like a red spray it will prevent that.
 
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