Yamaha Star Stryker banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

Few months ago, a lot people here took part of a group buy from Low & Mean for the fenders and chin scoop.

I was wondering ... Any of you guys painted their fender themselves? I have the fender in hand, but I do not really have the money to send it to the paint shop for now. Someone did it himself with good result?

I mean ... I was able to paint the plastic parts of my bike with no issues. Could it be that simple for the fender?

Frag
 

· Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
You know, I was going to post this question but not exactly the same.....I should have my fender from L&M early next week and I was going to paint it with a rattle can (I got mad rattle can skills) but I wanted to know if anyone else has found an exact paint color match (black), paint can number, place where you got the paint.....that kind of thing. (I want to make sure I get a good match)
Also, once you paint it and you want to shoot it with the clear coat make **** sure you do it on a bright sunny day with no humidity and once it is done, get it in direct sunlight right away...the UV from the sunlight makes the clearcoat dry hard and shine like a new penny...Also, once it is dry..wet sand it VERY LIGHTLY with 1000 grit, dry and clean it, and shoot it again....It will look amazing...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Jeremyf073 said:
You know, I was going to post this question but not exactly the same.....I should have my fender from L&M early next week and I was going to paint it with a rattle can (I got mad rattle can skills) but I wanted to know if anyone else has found an exact paint color match (black), paint can number, place where you got the paint.....that kind of thing. (I want to make sure I get a good match)
Also, once you paint it and you want to shoot it with the clear coat make **** sure you do it on a bright sunny day with no humidity and once it is done, get it in direct sunlight right away...the UV from the sunlight makes the clearcoat dry hard and shine like a new penny...Also, once it is dry..wet sand it VERY LIGHTLY with 1000 grit, dry and clean it, and shoot it again....It will look amazing...

http://www.colorrite.com/matrix-colors.cfm?CFID=1164135&CFTOKEN=25933151

I used their paint on my other bikes and it was always a perfect match.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does one can enougn for the front fender? I do not think so right?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Frag said:
Hi guys,

Few months ago, a lot people here took part of a group buy from Low & Mean for the fenders and chin scoop.

I was wondering ... Any of you guys painted their fender themselves? I have the fender in hand, but I do not really have the money to send it to the paint shop for now. Someone did it himself with good result?

I mean ... I was able to paint the plastic parts of my bike with no issues. Could it be that simple for the fender?

Frag

11 oz. AerosolsThe painting process takes some practice - we'll admit it - and it's important for you to work with a medium you're comfortable using. That's why ColorRite offers a complete line of urethane aerosol motorcycle paint for all of your OEM-matching needs. When you select aerosol, you've got an ultra-convenient, quick-access delivery method that's easy to approach for anyone who's shot a can of Krylon. Of course, ColorRite is much better stuff.ColorRite's selection of manufacturer-approved paints for your bike, quad, jet-ski, moped or whatever you ride are available at this website - OEM-matching is what we do. With a can of aerosol (11 ounces in each), you can spray a fender, helmet or a wheel, and with two you can complete a tank or a big fairing. It'll take four or five cans to do all the panels on your bike. A spray-out (that's a test application of the color on something other than your intended subject) is essential to assure that you're getting the color you expect, and that you're applying coats as the paint requires.When you're spraying panels and parts, it's important to remember other elements necessary to do the job right: aerosol primer (MAPRI) and aerosol clearcoats (UCA150, KK7, or KK8). Primer bonds with fiberglass, plastic and metal much better than color paint, and color paint bonds much better with cured primer than fiberglass, plastic or metal - get the picture? A clearcoat is necessary to keep that color sealed and UV-protected, and many colors won't cure right at all without a clear over them.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
I took my fender and spoiler into a auto body shop and had them paint it. I know its not motorcycle paint, but I also didn't pay that ridiculous price. They did the whole prime, paint, clear coat for $200. Photos will come in the spring when I can get to the bike and install.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top