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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello again!
To start with, yes I did a search and found a few things answered about the question I have but not all.
I'm thinking that once I do the integrated tail light and move the license to the axle that the bike is going to need to be lowered a little to look right without all that mess hanging off the rear fender.
I'm looking at the PCS Stryker Lowering kit rather than the lowering spring simply because of all the labor or expense to do the spring.
I have read that it really hampers the turn radius and that I'll be scraping my pegs in a 90* turn.
I also have speed bumps in the neighborhood that I need to take into consideration.
If I lower it only 1" to the fender measurement will it also lower the frame of the bike that might scrape a speed bump an inch or is that frame far enough forward that it doesn't lower the full 1".
I'd love to go the full drop with those brackets but If it's really going to hamper performance I'm guessing it's not worth it?

 

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I dont know the mathematical formula but you are on the right track. Lowering the rear an inch will only lower your pegs a very small fraction, maybe a quarter inch at most i would think. Just a guess on the actual amount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Most people who have lowered their Stryker have added a 240 tire to accommodate it.
My 210 is brand new and I just cant justify spending on another brand new tire right now!
I don't necessarily need it lowered, I think it will look funny once I remove the license, turn signals and plastics and shove the light up and farther fwd. Too much empty space I think
 

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I ride it like I stole it so I am always scraping no matter what.

PCS lowering kit~ Very easy to change up from 1" to 2.25". One person can do this.

1" drop. its great if that is what you are looking for.

2.25" drop ~ I did this after put the metzler 240 on so its not a true 2.25' drop.

This is the best thing I did as far as increasing bike performance except I have a different scrape every now and again. I think its the sub-frame. I did grind the notches underneath. I think I just need to keep in mind that I am lower when riding. As far as Speed bumps in the garage at work. I think they are pretty high but I slowly clear them .
 

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With the stock tire and having mine lowered the 2.25 I didn't bottom out. I also didn't scrape my pegs much but could if I leaned into it. With that being said, the dragging of the pegs is all a out the person, if you want to you can but if you don't then you won't. I personally drag them every single time now that I have my swing wing pegs on and love the sound! Plus the looks you get from people are priceless when they see now low you are and hear that sound. I personally think the "performance" or look is so much better with the full drop. For me I feel like I am part of the bike more. Personal preference, but try both settings out for the look and feel and go from there, very simple to go from one setting to another.
 

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I just looked up what a lowering kit is. I am shocked that it is only $50. Is it really as easy as it looks? I am pretty mechanical, so I can handle most things, but would hate to lose riding time if I got in over my head. Also, do you have to move the license plate first, or can it be done with the back end as is?
 

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I just looked up what a lowering kit is. I am shocked that it is only $50. Is it really as easy as it looks? I am pretty mechanical, so I can handle most things, but would hate to lose riding time if I got in over my head. Also, do you have to move the license plate first, or can it be done with the back end as is?
It's actually very easy to swap out the links. You don't even need to put it up on a lift (Although I did you see under it a little better.) It took me about 30 minutes.

I got the Soupy's Performance lowering links, for 2 different bikes, and they are super high quality, very precision pieces. I like the Soupy's links, because they are infinitely adjustable, not just 2 settings like the PCS links. You can get them for the Stryker for $83.
 

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You will love the feeling of the 2.25" drop and it's fine for solo riding with stock or 240 rear tire, trimmed duck tail or not. Here is where the problems begin though. With stock tire on I would drag the end of tail pipe in hard turns if I hit a bump. Even worse hit the bottom of the tail pipe mount and end of frame. But these are extreme cornering and hard dips. Not something you will find under normal conditions. On left turns hitting a dip would hit the kick stand and end frame. This is right at max lean angle, just dragging pegs, for that setup Bottoming out before hitting the pegs.
Putin the 240 help a lot, but still could find the pipe mount in those extreme conditions if I wasn't careful. Adjusted the pre load to #7 help but made the ride rigid.
Again under normal riding conditions your fine except for hitting the pegs just a little sooner. It's the bumps in turns that will get you.
One thing you will wont to do with a 240 is grind the pointed rub tabs off the frame under the fender because they will gouge your tire if you bottom out.
The other problem is with the 2.25" drop and 2 up riding with more than a 350 lbs combined weight is almost a no go. You will bottom out much easier.
I run with the 1" drop and #2 pre load now and have virtually non of those issues even 2 up. I still find the pegs on occasion. The 1" drop seems to just make up for the 240. I do like the feel of the 2.25" drop much better but the wife likes to get on the back every now and then and I do like to ride hard when I'm not following her.:nod: I will get the multiple adjustable links some day. . And yes. to switch from the 2.25" to the 1" is a relatively easy job that takes 15 or 20 minutes.
 

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I've got the Soupy's links on mine. As stated very good quality parts. I left them adjysted as they came which amounts to somewhere near a 2" lowering. I have dragged the pegs a few times on corners, sometimes when making sharp turns at intersections. Other than that I haven't had any issues with bottoming out or lack of clearance. I tend to be a bit more on the conservative side when riding the Stryker. After all it is a cruiser not a sport bike. I have to admit I was a little more aggressive when I had my VTR. Not a bad thing, I'm enjoying a little more laid back riding style.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've got the Soupy's links on mine. As stated very good quality parts. I left them adjysted as they came which amounts to somewhere near a 2" lowering. I have dragged the pegs a few times on corners, sometimes when making sharp turns at intersections. Other than that I haven't had any issues with bottoming out or lack of clearance. I tend to be a bit more on the conservative side when riding the Stryker. After all it is a cruiser not a sport bike. I have to admit I was a little more aggressive when I had my VTR. Not a bad thing, I'm enjoying a little more laid back riding style.
I'm also a very laid back rider.
I'm now looking to get a 240 and the lowering kit, I want it lower! Thanks for all the great suggestions Y'all.

"AR"
 

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Just bought the PCS links and plan on installing for a ride before the weather gets ugly. I have 1 more season on the 210 and will go to the 240 next fall. Looking forward to the change in ride with the links. Any other comments would be appreciated.
 
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