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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've looked at the PCS Lowering thread and I have a question... why is the L&M lowering kit $200, while others labeled as "lowering kits" are $49??? What's the difference? Is it necessary to change out the spring if you just use the linkage adjusters?

And at 290 lbs if I lower the bike will I have issues with bottoming out over potholes if I lower it? I'd really like to get a better feel with my feet for better overall control of the bike.
 

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AHam said:
I've looked at the PCS Lowering thread and I have a question... why is the L&M lowering kit $200, while others labeled as "lowering kits" are $49??? What's the difference? Is it necessary to change out the spring if you just use the linkage adjusters?

And at 290 lbs if I lower the bike will I have issues with bottoming out over potholes if I lower it? I'd really like to get a better feel with my feet for better overall control of the bike.
I'm not sure going with just the lowering links is the way to go for you. At that weight I'd recommend going with a "progressive spring" so the bike won't bottom out or ride like a old farm truck. I'm not too sure if that L&M lowering spring is progressive or not.
 

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skwerlee said:
AHam said:
I've looked at the PCS Lowering thread and I have a question... why is the L&M lowering kit $200, while others labeled as "lowering kits" are $49??? What's the difference? Is it necessary to change out the spring if you just use the linkage adjusters?

And at 290 lbs if I lower the bike will I have issues with bottoming out over potholes if I lower it? I'd really like to get a better feel with my feet for better overall control of the bike.
I'm not sure going with just the lowering links is the way to go for you. At that weight I'd recommend going with a "progressive spring" so the bike won't bottom out or ride like a old farm truck. I'm not too sure if that L&M lowering spring is progressive or not.
Info from my experience. With a combined weight of 380 pounds plus maybe 30 more pounds of gear on my Stryker rode to SF and back never once bottomed out even hitting serious pot holes on these mountain roads with the shock set on the softest position, stock tire and no lowering kit. Bike handled fine. Don't now the facts but wouldn't think that just lowering would cause bottoming out with the same weight.
 

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AHam said:
I've looked at the PCS Lowering thread and I have a question... why is the L&M lowering kit $200, while others labeled as "lowering kits" are $49??? What's the difference? Is it necessary to change out the spring if you just use the linkage adjusters?

And at 290 lbs if I lower the bike will I have issues with bottoming out over potholes if I lower it? I'd really like to get a better feel with my feet for better overall control of the bike.
The $49 kits are just replacement dogbones, so 2 pieces of steel. The L&M kit is a spring which replaces your stock spring on your shock absorber. The spring is not progressive, just shorter. They do sell a whole shocker that has the progressive spring fitted as well.
 

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There is also the option of the links and progressive spring. Works well on my Raider ... will probably do that to the missus' Stryker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So since I'm hearing that bottoming out doesn't sound like a big problem, AND I can get 1" to 2.25" from replacing the dog bones alone, that's probably the more economical choice at $49???
 

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AHam said:
So since I'm hearing that bottoming out doesn't sound like a big problem, AND I can get 1" to 2.25" from replacing the dog bones alone, that's probably the more economical choice at $49???
absolutely! this is the route i'll go if and when i decide to lower the stance.
 

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Hey Danny, Didnt your kit come with instructions. Mine did and thought all was explained well. You should be able to tell, because there is a big difference where your bike sits between stock, 1" and 2.5"
 

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Hey 11Stryker, I didn't even see the package it came in! When I purchased the bike Yamaha had me take it back he following day and they put it on. I didn't see the package and they did not allow me into the shop area. Needless to say, that was the last time they touched my bike! I have tried to look for a PDF or some instructions so I can verify but I have come up empty handed. To top everything off, I don't even know what brand the dogbones are!
 

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Hey Safety,

I installed the PCS dogbones a couple of weeks ago. If you look at the bottom of the dogbone and the bolt is in the longer of the slots, then you are lowered 2.5" This is true if the longer slot is above the shorter slot. It was a bit confusing to me also. Hope this makes sense.
 

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safetydanny said:
Hey 11Stryker, I didn't even see the package it came in! When I purchased the bike Yamaha had me take it back he following day and they put it on. I didn't see the package and they did not allow me into the shop area. Needless to say, that was the last time they touched my bike! I have tried to look for a PDF or some instructions so I can verify but I have come up empty handed. To top everything off, I don't even know what brand the dogbones are!
That sucks Danny, The Shop should have at least shown you how to change from highest to lowest settings and at very least where they put it. I'm sure someone will pipe up and help you out here. I never installed mine and just sold them last week, or I would help you out.
 

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Wow I've said it a half dozen times don't take your bike to any shop that has a closed door policy. Big RED flag.
I have 3 professional shops including a Yamaha dealer that lets me watch everything they do. Even a V Twin High Performance Shop that the owner Let me watch him put a tire on my 950 and I even moved the drive belt out of the way so he could lift the wheel into place. Anything short of that is a no no.
As for the lowering links I believe the longest slot leaves the most distance in highlight of the shock which equates to a 1" pull down. The smaller slot which is closer to the hole that the pin sits in pulls the shock down tighter equating to 2.5" haven't installed mine yet but that's the way it appears to me. if I got that backwards I'm sure someone will correct me and/or I will let you now when I do mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
First THANKS for all the insight I really appreciate it.

Now the final question... can I do the swapout/install of the dogbone lowering kit myself with simple tools and no lift???

Thanks again
 

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AHam said:
First THANKS for all the insight I really appreciate it.

Now the final question... can I do the swapout/install of the dogbone lowering kit myself with simple tools and no lift???

Thanks again
I didn't have a lift either. I raised my bike to install the dogbones using a 2x4, a couple of large rocks, and a scissor jack from my pickup. About as far from the optimal setup as you can get, but it worked.

One of my friends called while I was installing them, and after telling him what I was doing I informed him that I expected the ordeal to end in 3 possible outcomes.

1. I install the dogbones successfully and rise to the top of the hillbilly evolutionary ladder.
2. I lay the bike over on me, and either need help getting it off of me, or at the worst require a ride to the hospital for a broken leg, neck, etc.
3. I lay the bike over without harming myself, and need shot with a tranquilizer in order to calm down.
 

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Toby said:
Wow I've said it a half dozen times don't take your bike to any shop that has a closed door policy. Big RED flag.
I have 3 professional shops including a Yamaha dealer that lets me watch everything they do. Even a V Twin High Performance Shop that the owner Let me watch him put a tire on my 950 and I even moved the drive belt out of the way so he could lift the wheel into place. Anything short of that is a no no.
As for the lowering links I believe the longest slot leaves the most distance in highlight of the shock which equates to a 1" pull down. The smaller slot which is closer to the hole that the pin sits in pulls the shock down tighter equating to 2.5" haven't installed mine yet but that's the way it appears to me. if I got that backwards I'm sure someone will correct me and/or I will let you now when I do mine.
Toby, lesson learned! I went by my yamaha dealer today and raised **** with them! The outcome, I received all my stock parts, instructions for my dogbones, and a free yamaha shirt! lol This will not happen to me again! Just to help you out now, the Baron dogbones I have are labeled with "1" and "2", making it very simple to identify the lowering heights. The hole in the middle is stock height, "1" is a 1 inch drop and "2" is a two inch drop.

Again, thank you for all the information and your guidance! I guess I was just a newbie victim!!!
 
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