Anyone know how to change out the Break Pads On Our Stryker???? Also, I felt my Rear Rotor and it feels a lil bumpy and my front rotor is nice and smooth?? Am i able to get them turned at a shop??? Where and what type or part number do i go with?? Any and all details are much appreciated!! Please
Need Help!!!!
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Joined
·
837 Posts
2-11 and 2-12 in the Stryker manual gives the thickness limits. And it tells you how to change out the pads in 4-1.
The brakes should be really easy... any yammy dealer can hook you up with the part. The front I haven't had apart yet, but the rear you just remove the caliper and the pads clip in really easy. I'm sure the front isn't any harder. Have to see what the book says about loosening the calipers so the new pads fit in...My question is why on earth are you replacing brake pads with only 12k on it? They should be almost new... mine's up to 11k or so and there's not much wear at all...
I'm also interested in upgrading the brakes. The front sucks!
If you find and aftermarket pads (i.e. EBC or Galfer) let us know.
I was on the EBC site looking at their HH pads. It says to never put sintered pads on a bike that doesn't have them already. This is new to me as I've always put their HH pads on my rides. Mind you they were sport bikes.
Pretty sure the Stryker has organic pads.
I'd also like to upgrade the front lines to SS lines which are also hard to find at the moment.
If you find and aftermarket pads (i.e. EBC or Galfer) let us know.
I was on the EBC site looking at their HH pads. It says to never put sintered pads on a bike that doesn't have them already. This is new to me as I've always put their HH pads on my rides. Mind you they were sport bikes.
Pretty sure the Stryker has organic pads.
I'd also like to upgrade the front lines to SS lines which are also hard to find at the moment.
Well i have over 13,000mi on it now and ive been hearing a faint grind to the rear breaks/tire and when i felt the smoothness of the rotor it feels off and somewhat ridged but smooth so i know its not grinding metal..... like i mentioned the front rotor is nice and evenly smooth so i figure if the rear isnt like the front then i may need some pad changes??? better safe then sorry ya know.... Im planning on riding out from San Diego CA. To Long Beach CA. to a bike rally which is a lil over 120mi and need to make sure my bike is up to parMentat said:
My question is why on earth are you replacing brake pads with only 12k on it? They should be almost new... mine's up to 11k or so and there's not much wear at all...
I was under the impression you don't want your rotors smooth. I know when I worked in a shop we would turn the rotors, to correct them if they were warped and also to remove the smoothness / glossiness...lol... hope that makes sense. Obviously if you have deep grooves and or you can feel or hear a grinding, them it is time to replace the pads and if the damage is severe enough the rotors.
I have work on cars and trucks, so it could be different on motorcycles... I could be wrong, but to me brakes are brakes...
I have work on cars and trucks, so it could be different on motorcycles... I could be wrong, but to me brakes are brakes...
Joined
·
837 Posts
Typically you don't turn motorcycle rotors because they are so thin to begin with.
Joined
·
968 Posts
The grooves arn't as important on a bike as long as you arn't passed the minimum thickness. They should be stamped or you can get the measurement from the book. You ride the bike alot so I'd check, but you should be able to go through a couple sets of pads before you have to change the rotor.
That grind sounds more like norm build up...hard to believe you have worn out a back with 13k...pull the back and inspect and clean...my guess is there is no chance your ready and certainly the rotor should be fine. again just sounds way off to be in need of rotors..less your riding the rear brake all the time or something out of the ordinary.
Aight Soooo From the looks of it..... My rotor is starting to show wear/grindage on the outer edge of the rotor..... I know i will have to replace it but for now i was thinking of just replacing the pads only for the meantime??? is this a good or bad thing???
Joined
·
324 Posts
It's not worth it in the long run. Just buy a new rotor.
Do you have a pic of the rotor... typically.. if your brake pad is bad.. the grooves it produces are usually 2 slightly apart... it is the rivets that score the rotor. If your rotor is getting chewed up on the outer edge... I would look to if there is debris stuck in the caliper. as long as the chewed up part of the rotor is not "scaley" meaning VERY rough to the touch... probably no need to replace it. unless you just find it to be an eyesore...WLFPAK65 said:
Joined
·
968 Posts
Second on the outer edge wear, there shouldn't be any! I'd check that out soon! Probably got a rock stuck in there.
lmao!!! Yahh I Know.... I Didnt Think I Used Them That Much????? Guess I Was Wrong lol..... I Try And Use The Front Breaks Also But From The Looks Of It I Dont Haaaa..... Ill Change That Up From Now On Though...... Now I Have A Reason To Buy Some Nice New Custom Rotors..... Eventually lolMentat said:
Check Out My How Too, It Was Real Easy To Install!!
http://www.yamahastarstryker.com/index.php/topic,1675.msg24978/topicseen.html#new
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
