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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just purchased a new 2013 stryker.

looking to do some mods and upgrades, but have some questions....

i would like to change out the foot pegs and possibly change foot brake and foot clutch levers as well. Tried searching online but have not had much luck on finding what will work for my bike.
Would like to see what you guy use, have,and like. And where i can purchase those items...

I already purchased a cobra intake for the bike and will be purchasing some vance and hines pipes 2 into 2 big radius. now for those of you who do have the V&H 2 into 2 big radius pipes i noticed they run pretty close it looks like to the ride side of your leg. Is it just me or are the pics deceiving? i love the sound of them but don't want to get them if im going to burn my leg every time i ride.

video below of the exact pipes im looking to get....



and last of all ive been reading that if i change out the intake and put some pipes on the bike i will have to have a power commander, or something of the sort. ive been reading there are a few different types of units out there and what to know what will work best for my set up and why.

thanks for all the info guys! much appreciated!
 

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Before I got my Stryker, I tested out a friends Harley Rocker with the Vance and Hines Big Radius 2 into 2. I made the mistake of wearing shorts . So let's just say they do get **** hot. Scar is barely visible now, but it sure did hurt when my leg touched it only for a second.

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I don't recall seeing many posts about changing the foot brake and shift lever. Just curious why? If you have difficulty operating the shift lever I will say this, changing out the pegs will make a huge difference. The stock one as a huge rubber top and made if difficult for me to get my boot in and out. After market pegs and mini boards will give you more clearance without having to monkey with shift lever adjustment screw. I am going to go with the Kuryakyn 7579 mini floor board (just came out) for comfort reasons but I adjusted the screw when I first got it.
 

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I don't recall seeing many posts about changing the foot brake and shift lever. Just curious why? If you have difficulty operating the shift lever I will say this, changing out the pegs will make a huge difference. The stock one as a huge rubber top and made if difficult for me to get my boot in and out. After market pegs and mini boards will give you more clearance without having to monkey with shift lever adjustment screw. I am going to go with the Kuryakyn 7579 mini floor board (just came out) for comfort reasons but I adjusted the screw when I first got it.
They have some cool shift pegs to match the foot pegs. Or even to just look better. They make one that slips over the stock one, but I would rather replace it. Others have done it, but you need to cut the stock one off, and drill a hole , then you can use the Harley style.

Sent on the run from Tapatalk.. cuz that's how I roll...
 

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Just purchased a new 2013 stryker.

looking to do some mods and upgrades, but have some questions....


I already purchased a cobra intake for the bike and will be purchasing some vance and hines pipes 2 into 2 big radius. now for those of you who do have the V&H 2 into 2 big radius pipes i noticed they run pretty close it looks like to the ride side of your leg. Is it just me or are the pics deceiving? i love the sound of them but don't want to get them if im going to burn my leg every time i ride. and last of all ive been reading that if i change out the intake and put some pipes on the bike i will have to have a power commander, or something of the sort. ive been reading there are a few different types of units out there and what to know what will work best for my set up and why.

thanks for all the info guys! much appreciated!
I have the Big Radius pipes and I LOVE them...you will not be disappointed in neither looks nor sound. I've heard them next to the Cobra Swepts and the Big Radius sounds much better/deeper IMO. Yes the rear cylinder header pipe sticks out a bit on the big radius so they provide a spacer to move the right side peg/brake assembly out about 1" to keep your leg off of it so it’s a non-issue.

As for fuel management it is indeed recommended when running both and exhaust and a BAK together. There are several capable units out there so it really comes down to your budget. If you don't mind spending the money the Cobra Auto Tuner is a fantastic solution. It is the only fuel management tuner that's truly plug and play...no manual tweaking or adjustments required at all. Also if you make future upgrades it can compensate accordingly on its own. Another very popular option is the EJK Tuner...it's much more affordable *about $225 with our forum discount* and you can fine tune things to your liking which some folks prefer.


http://electronicjetkit.com/Cruiser/viewproduct.asp?partnumber=9120292
 

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Foot controls

The shifter peg can be cut-off and drilled, then install many aftermarket peg. Also brake pedal can be modified such as in my attached pics to accept many different pads also. Cobra FI2000o2(206.00), or Autotune(469.00) are good choices. Rider Floorboards from VStar 1100 are direct replacement with no mods needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks for all the helpful info guys!

when it comes to my toys i don't usually cheap out. im all about having the nicest and the best and taking care of things and doing it right the first time around. Im not the kinda person who half asses stuff.

sounds like the cobra auto tuner is the way to go. The pipes and intake as well as the auto tuner ill be having a local shop do all the work for me.

where do you guys suggest i purchase the cobra auto tuner? best price?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
as for the foot pegs i ride in boots and those stock foot pegs were just not doing it. I found my self constantly trying to re-adjust my feet to get them comfortable.

the stock shift and brake foot levers are not that bad and i could live with them. but id prefer to having a matching set with the foot pegs.

you guys have any suggestions on which ones look and perform good?
 

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The shifter peg can be cut-off and drilled, then install many aftermarket peg. Also brake pedal can be modified such as in my attached pics to accept many different pads also. Cobra FI2000o2(206.00), or Autotune(469.00) are good choices. Rider Floorboards from VStar 1100 are direct replacement with no mods needed.
I was wondering how people have been changing their pegs.

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I was hanging out with an YMC employee yesterday and the stock pegs conversation came up because I mentioned about how tall that rubber section is and the extra room gained between the shifter and peg if I swapped it with aftermarket. Apparently The tall rubber top is by design to reduce foot vibration for comfort. The ribbed finger design reduces engine vibration to feet and allows water to quickly escape if your feet are wet much like tread on a tire. The engineers must like them because they put them on the new Bolt.
 

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Yeah my peg were not doing it either. I got the Kuryakyn Black Trident pegs and adjusted my shifter rod forward a little bit which pushes the shift pedal up creating more space. It's still not exactly how I prefer but it's much better than stock. With the Trident, I don't notice any vibrations at all. If I could do it all over again I would get the mini floor boards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
im liking the factory look of the foot pegs on the raider. im looking to see if anyone knows where i can pick up a pair of them. new or used.... BUT, i prefer new of course.

here is a pic of the ones im looking for.

 

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im liking the factory look of the foot pegs on the raider. im looking to see if anyone knows where i can pick up a pair of them. new or used.... BUT, i prefer new of course.

here is a pic of the ones im looking for.

Those look nice for stock ones. It looks like they pivot more front to back, then up and down like the Stryker. Maybe it's just the angle of the picture..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Those look nice for stock ones. It looks like they pivot more front to back, then up and down like the Stryker. Maybe it's just the angle of the picture..
This is my bosses raider. We had both our bikes side by side. And neither of us can see a difference. Im sure they will bolt right up and go. Just need to find a pair first...
 

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This is my bosses raider. We had both our bikes side by side. And neither of us can see a difference. Im sure they will bolt right up and go. Just need to find a pair first...
They are very easy to take off. Just pull a cotter pin, and then the pin will slide out. Maybe better to try it, before you buy.. would just cost you a cotter pin... and maybe a beer.. LOL
 
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