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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed a dynojet power commander 5 and autotune and now my bike runs like ****.

I talked to the Dynojet tech support and the guy told me that the problem was that when I installed my auto tune I removed the stock O2 sensor to put in the 2 that came with the auto tune. He wants me to drill a third hole in my pipes so I can run with the stock O2 sensor AND both the wideband sensors that came with my Auto Tune. This seems stupid to me because won't the ecm just fight against my auto tune? Is there a better way than running with three O2 sensors?
 

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I just installed a dynojet power commander 5 and autotune and now my bike runs like ****.

I talked to the Dynojet tech support and the guy told me that the problem was that when I installed my auto tune I removed the stock O2 sensor to put in the 2 that came with the auto tune. He wants me to drill a third hole in my pipes so I can run with the stock O2 sensor AND both the wideband sensors that came with my Auto Tune. This seems stupid to me because won't the ecm just fight against my auto tune? Is there a better way than running with three O2 sensors?
I've never heard of having to add bungs to install multiple o2 sensors on these bikes. You should of checked this site first and seen the best option is the tune from Ivan. Sounds like you got an incorrect model of programmer. You should of gotten the single channel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have 2x2 pipes with no crossover, (V&H twin slash staggered) so having two O2 sensors make sense, but I don't understand why disconnecting the stock O2 sensor would make it perform so badly. Is there some way to tell my bike not to look for a signal from the stock O2 sensor anymore?
 

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The area controlled by the O2 sensor and the stock ECM is not adjusted by the PCV. Probably not having it connected is creating issues with the air/fuel in that zone.
When I had my bike dyno'd to set up my PCV, the guy doing it didn't realize that and he was having a heck of a time getting the fuel/air right because he'd make a change and then the bike would adjust and mess up anything he set. My bike ran like crap, especially while in that zone for fuel/air (mainly cruising speeds). Missing, and backfiring. I contacted Dynojet and they requested a copy of the map he created. They returned the map to me with that area of the map with all the same neutral values. The bike did run a lot better after that. That way the bike wasn't dealing with different air/fuel values and was able to make it's minor adjustments as necessary.
But I ultimately went with Ivan's flash. I wish that was available when I started out, I would have saved a fair bit of $$. With Ivan's flash and his map, I no longer have the O2 sensor installed.
 

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I have 2x2 pipes with no crossover, (V&H twin slash staggered) so having two O2 sensors make sense, but I don't understand why disconnecting the stock O2 sensor would make it perform so badly. Is there some way to tell my bike not to look for a signal from the stock O2 sensor anymore?
I understand that as those pipes I run also, and technically and logically you want to have a sensor on each cylinder to properly measure output, but for practical reasons (as most don't have capabilities to weld or modify correctly) or no one wants to chop up their $600 pipes, to make a $500+ programmer work, not to mention the only way to remove the stock O2 from the stock ECU is to get it tuned professionally, IE Ivan.
 

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Solve the issue.. Get Ivan's ECU tune done.. !!!!
 

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At the moment I removed the factory O2 sensor and O2 optimizer, I installed the WB O2 sensor in the factory bung and wired it directly to the autotune. I have not experienced any issues that I know of with how it runs. Puzzling why I have not noticed anything????
 
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