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oil change for dummys

45K views 32 replies 16 participants last post by  BrettRTR 
#1 ·
This dummy in particular. I've never ridden a motorcycle until i bought my Stryker (used) last sunday and its due for it 6k oil change. I'm not incompetent, I change all the fluids on the cars and have a garage full of the right tools but i was never given the owners manual or anything else with the bike and i want to be sure i'm not putting oil in the trans fluid or some other dumbass move. so if anyone could tell me where to look, pictures help too, that'd be much appreciated. Also, i've heard i need a "crush washer" any details on that?

THANKS!
 
#2 ·
enjoithejello said:
This dummy in particular. I've never ridden a motorcycle until i bought my Stryker (used) last sunday and its due for it 6k oil change. I'm not incompetent, I change all the fluids on the cars and have a garage full of the right tools but i was never given the owners manual or anything else with the bike and i want to be sure i'm not putting oil in the trans fluid or some other dumbass move. so if anyone could tell me where to look, pictures help too, that'd be much appreciated. Also, i've heard i need a "crush washer" any details on that?

THANKS!
click on the following link and download the Stryker service manual PDF. Everything you need to know about oil changes are on page 149

http://www.mediafire.com/?1n2h5yjk1nlygwq
 
#3 ·
One thing I have finally learned over time. Go almost all the way back to the back tire to lift the bike. This goes for a jack or a motorcycle jack. That way the jack isn't in the way when you put the oil drain pan under it. It took me four oil changes to learn this easy step. lol.
 
#4 ·
Christopher said:
One thing I have finally learned over time. Go almost all the way back to the back tire to lift the bike. This goes for a jack or a motorcycle jack. That way the jack isn't in the way when you put the oil drain pan under it. It took me four oil changes to learn this easy step. lol.
I have a lift but for oil changes I just put a piece of wood under the kick stand so the bike doesn't lean so much...this allows me to slide a shallow plastic drain pan I got from Autozone under the bike to drain the oil. I think the pan was like $2. It works even with my bike lowered 2.25"
 
#5 ·
I’ve circled the oil drain plug in red in the image below. As mentioned in an earlier post I also prefer not to use a lift for an oil change, just slide some wood (about 3 ½” thick) under the kickstand to straighten the bike up. And to answer your question, YES replace the crush washer on the drain plug, they only cost about $1.25 Toby (the cheap bastard! :D ) will tell you otherwise but IMO it’s worth it. After you’ve put the oil in be sure to remember to put your oil screw cap back in place before you start the engine or you’ll have oil spraying everywhere. Shut the engine down and top off. You should use just sort of 4qrts.

 
#8 ·
Alright, I finally got the job done. Only 2 things I'm concerned about... the engine pissed out MAYBE half a qt of oil including during removal of the filter. Sadly I didn't think to check the window before hand but now after filling it with the manual recommended 3.59 qts the window is completely full. Did I do something wrong? Please help.
 
#9 ·
enjoithejello said:
Alright, I finally got the job done. Only 2 things I'm concerned about... the engine pissed out MAYBE half a qt of oil including during removal of the filter. Sadly I didn't think to check the window before hand but now after filling it with the manual recommended 3.59 qts the window is completely full. Did I do something wrong? Please help.
Sounds like you pulled the wrong plug. Read this...
http://www.yamahastarstryker.com/index.php/topic,2687.0.html
 
#10 ·
you're a freakin genius man thank you so much ha ha. i feel like an idiot but i'm so glad the jobs done right i dont even care. Thanks again! and for anyone else that reads this, the pic above is the bolt i pulled, the correct one is near it but not pictured and if you're still using the stock plug (i changed mine out for a magnetic) its the only 15mm one in the area and has a small guard around it. SUPER EASY to find if you're even just a beer less into the night as me haha.
 
#11 ·
enjoithejello said:
you're a freakin genius man thank you so much ha ha. i feel like an idiot but i'm so glad the jobs done right i dont even care. Thanks again! and for anyone else that reads this, the pic above is the bolt i pulled, the correct one is near it but not pictured and if you're still using the stock plug (i changed mine out for a magnetic) its the only 15mm one in the area and has a small guard around it. SUPER EASY to find if you're even just a beer less into the night as me haha.
Glad I could help.

P.S. it's 17mm not 15mm
 
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#12 ·
enjoithejello said:
you're a freakin genius man thank you so much ha ha. i feel like an idiot but i'm so glad the jobs done right i dont even care. Thanks again! and for anyone else that reads this, the pic above is the bolt i pulled, the correct one is near it but not pictured and if you're still using the stock plug (i changed mine out for a magnetic) its the only 15mm one in the area and has a small guard around it. SUPER EASY to find if you're even just a beer less into the night as me haha.
The bolt circled above (17 mm) is the one I pulled and I got about 3.6 quarts out of it. It took **** near 4 quarts to fill it back up.
 
#13 ·
I pulled the wrong one too. I went off the picture in this thread. Is it just me, or is the 12mm bolt the one circled in this picture? Maybe it is just the angle or something, but to me it looks like the wrong bolt is circles. I guess it's good to get all the oil out, so we probably should pull all the drain plugs.
 
#28 ·
--------------------

would it make sense to pull both bolts if they are both drain bolts?
I just had a new clutch installed a few weeks ago and was told to change the oil after 700 miles bc due to the new clutches being broke in there will be some metal shavings. i aim to get every bit out that i can so back to my question, both bolts? or just the 17mm?
 
#15 ·
sdsting said:
Yeah I posted that pic with the drain plug circled. There are 2 bolts in that circled image but it was assumed to be obvious that the oil drain plug is the large vertical bolt and not the small horizontal bolt. Does that make it a bit clearer?
Both are vertical. There is a 12mm and a 17mm bolt. They are pretty close together. I was just glad to see I wasn't the only one who pulled the wrong one. LOL
 
#19 · (Edited)
doh... I pulled the wrong plug as well...got very little old oil out and put new oil in...I was trying to drain the excess oil out then found the oil was so dark...then i found this thread and turned out I pulled the 12mm bolt...the shop gave me a copper gasket fitting the 12mm bolt while the 17mm bolt has an aluminum one, a little misled...
 
#25 ·
I bought the Rotella T6 synthetic heavy duty Diesel engine oil as recommended and a K&N filter. Pulled my manual and it says do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. Did I buy the right oil?
Should be fine. Eventually all oils will be above the spec originally quoted in an owner's manual... I think the specs generally change every 1-2 years but don't hold me to that. I'm sure Wikipedia has an article if you are really interested.

I guarantee my 98 & 02 cars speced oils that are no longer made :)
The key is to use the same weight etc.
Whether you go dino, synthetic or a blend is your choice on the Stryker since dino was specified and the others are a higher refinement. That said you should not go down in refinement if your vehicle calls for X. One of my current vehicles is dino, 2 are blends and 1 is synthetic.
 
#27 ·
I use Mobile 1 4T on the Stryker since I have always use Mobile 1 on all my vehicles and so far haven't let me down yet.

In regards to "Oil Change Intervals" same as my other vehicle. I always change my oil every 6 months regardless of mileage since if I follow the mileage route I would go more than a year before I change oil. When it comes with the Stryker I follow the maintenance schedule in regards to lube and check the mechanical/electrical components but follow my every 6 month rule when it comes to changing oil.
 
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