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When my bike hit 4K miles I wanted to get the dealer to do the inspection. But the weather was beautiful so it was almost at 5K by the time I took it in. When I picked it up and the first ride I noticed how smooth it was running. It wasn't busting and popping the way it was. So I got to getting down the road, about 60 or 70 and looked down and the oil light was on. I started slowing down and it went off. So I thought ok and continued on and sped up and it came back on. Once the bike warmed up it stays off. But now I notice that it does it when its cold. I called the dealer and they want me to bring it back. So I guess this will be my next step. the only thing I can think of is when I read the bill I saw they filled it up with 20w50. I usually use 10w40. I wonder if the 20w50 needs to warm up first to be thin enough to work at high RPM's. What do you think?
 

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Christopher said:
When my bike hit 4K miles I wanted to get the dealer to do the inspection. But the weather was beautiful so it was almost at 5K by the time I took it in. When I picked it up and the first ride I noticed how smooth it was running. It wasn't busting and popping the way it was. So I got to getting down the road, about 60 or 70 and looked down and the oil light was on. I started slowing down and it went off. So I thought ok and continued on and sped up and it came back on. Once the bike warmed up it stays off. But now I notice that it does it when its cold. I called the dealer and they want me to bring it back. So I guess this will be my next step. the only thing I can think of is when I read the bill I saw they filled it up with 20w50. I usually use 10w40. I wonder if the 20w50 needs to warm up first to be thin enough to work at high RPM's. What do you think?
Hey Christopher- I have always used 20w50 also, but I don't ride purposely below 50 degrees. I do notice that when cold out, clutch likes to not completely disengage when stopped at traffic light. Have to hold bike with brake- and yes- clutch is adjusted properly. Others have also stated that the oil needs to be at or near top of sight glass to eliminate oil light problems.
 

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Ya, this bike is somewhat hard to fill up with oil by yourself because of the placement of the filling hole, sight glass, and the bike needing to be straight up to get proper fill. I ended up putting a magnetic level on the side of the flat frame rail to be sure and block under the kickstand to help.Then fill to top of sight glass.
 

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Only problem on other end of spectrum with 10/40 is that it's upper safe temp is 110* F Outside air temp. While us up here in north don't have to much to worry, but the southern states, especially SouthWest do get above that temp regularily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It gets to be 100 degrees regularly in the southeast also. But rarely does it get over 110 actual degrees. Maybe heat index but not actual. Besides, once it gets that hot I have already swapped out to something with A/C.
 

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Most likely issue is that the oil is low... I noticed that the STRYKER has a tempermental low oil sensor... even if it is slightly low... and using thicker oil...when you rev it to about 2000-2200rpm... the oil light will flash... better to have just a bit more oil, basically it seems that the oil is picked up and splashed around, but because it is thicker... it takes time to drain back down into the pan were the sensor is.... 10w-40 means the oil is 10 weight when it is cold and 40 weight when it heats up... same with 20w-50... that is why the light comes on "after" it is warmed up. the changes in viscousity prevent it from flowing down faster than the oil is being pumped.

check this site out...

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
 

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Well, the owners manual calls for 3.59 qt of oil with filter. This fills my sight glass to 1/2 full so I got to assume this is correct. I thought about contacting Yamaha Corp. for clarification because I simply don't trust the dealers around here to give me the correct answer.

As for the oil light coming on, the thicker viscosity oil when cold could be the reason. I run 10-40 here in GA and try to avoid riding on days over 90 degrees simply because it's too hot for me, not necessarily the bike.
 

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I changed mine and it did the same thing. I was careful to measure the oil I replaced.
I stopped at the local parts store and added another quart. It still is in view of the sight glass.
I am wondering if it may be a typo in the books.
 

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I have done two oil changes on my Stryker so far. Both times I added just a little over 3.5 quarts of oil. This puts it approximately 2/3rds of the way up the sight glass. Never had the oil light come on with my bike and I do use 10W-40.

I noticed that the level showing in the sight glass can give a false reading if the bike is not perfectly straight side to side (or is it up and down). You know what I mean.
 

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I am used to holding the bike vertical to check the sight glass.
With all the engineers used to develop these bikes, you would think one would figure out where to place the sight glass while the bike is on the kickstand. I get tired of standing on my head while trying to see the oil level.
 

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With the bike balanced my oil level is in the middle, but on the the kick stand it is over the top. Even on a 2x4, 1.5 inch side the oil is over the top, it is probably the car tire. But we still have to stand on our heads to just see the level. **** dip-sticks do work, they put them on my yz450 it shouldn't be too hard to put them on a cruiser.
 

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szabla said:
I am used to holding the bike vertical to check the sight glass.
With all the engineers used to develop these bikes, you would think one would figure out where to place the sight glass while the bike is on the kickstand. I get tired of standing on my head while trying to see the oil level.
Heck why didn't someone tell the japanese the concept of a dipstick...really a sightglass..I hate em.

I was told the change required 3.9 qts
 
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