Oil
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G
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·Amsoil 10W-40.
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Mobil 1 V-twin
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Yamalube.
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Whether you go conventional or synthetic you can't go wrong so long as you change it when you're supposed to and you use the factory Yamaha oil filter. I went with a quality oil that's readily available at most auto parts stores...that way i don't have to special order stuff.
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yamalube
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Has anyone tried this?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-26qq?itemIdentifier=853040&_requestid=112659
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-26qq?itemIdentifier=853040&_requestid=112659
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1,980 Posts
I am testing out that new App for Yamaha, and I was looking at the owners manual on my phone. I noticed it said not to use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. Is the Rotella or the other one not "CD"?
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398 Posts
Both delrin and rotella a couple of yrs and further back used to be jaso and MA approved for the longest time. All that is, is whether the companys wants to pay the testing for it or not. Like synthetic oil. I have HD riders use regular synthetic oil same as they use in the car. I do believe there is a certain blend for our wet clutch. But hands down, it can't be that magnificent of a change to where 2 oils run 2 different type of engines. Oil is oil in my oppion as long as you use top rated oils like Mobil, Pennzoil, ect. But if riders or myself are skeptic about oil they put in there bikes. By all means I would put strickly motorcycle oil in, jaso & ma approved....
Guys oil is oil till it leaves the manufacture. be careful using automotive oil in your motorcycle with a wet clutch. Alot of automotive and diesel oils have friction modifiers in them that allow metal to slip past each othere easier and have cleaners that break down carbon and such. These work just as good on the cylinder walls as they do on the wet clutch. I personally had made the mistake once out of nessecity to run castrol 10-30 in my dirtbike for a motocross race due to not having enough amsoil. Clutch made it about 10 laps.
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398 Posts
No. Truthfully it sounds the same. The only difference I've notice is, has a bit more torque. But then again every engine not the same. Try it, if your not pleased with it. Change it back to motorcycle oil, it jus takes about 15 min....
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398 Posts
Maybe this would help. Someone here in our old forum posted the whole thing. I just grab what was about the oil....
At about 50 miles, go home and change the oil and the filter. I strongly recommend you use a top quality oil filter, a Purolator Pure One, Mobil-1, Bosch, or SuperTech. I recommend you use a synthetic oil such as Shell Rotella, Mobil-1 SUV, or Delvac-1. If you simply can't bring yourself to use a synthetic in a new engine, use Chevron Delo-400. Don't use a 10w-30 oil. If your manufacturer recommends a 20w-50 oil, use Mobil-1 red cap or Chevron Delo-400 15w-40, which meets the high speed shear standards of a 20w-50 oil. Information on oils and oil filters is available on this web page, see the Lubricants section. When you take out your factory oil, if you hold it up in the sunlight you'll see the color is very good, it looks almost completely unused, but you'll see lots of reflections from metal flakes in the oil. These flakes are very bad for your engine, and can clog up your oil filter so that your filter bypass is activated, meaning you effectively don't have an oil filter. Notice that the factory says you should still be using the factory oil and oil filter. I think this is insane.
Corvettes and Porsches come from the factory with Mobil-1 in their engines. Remember, these engineers have designed world- champion engines for F1, Indy, Le Mans 24 hours, etc.
At this point, the bulk of your break-in is done. Your rings are substantially seated, your cylinder walls are scrubbed in, and your transmission gears have shed the bulk of their machining flaws. You can ride your bike now like it's broken in, except I recommend you try to avoid lugging the engine or running at a constant speed on the freeway for long times until after your next oil change.
When you have 500 to 800 miles on the bike, change the oil and filter again. Again, I recommend a synthetic oil, or Chevron Delo-400, or if the manufacturer recommends 20w-50 use Mobil-1 red cap or Chevron Delo-400 15w-40. If you have a drive shaft, now's the time to change your rear end gear lube. Use a good synthetic in there, like Mobil-1 or Valvoline synthetic gear lube. Continue to ride the bike normally. At this point, you can get on the freeway and drone if you simply must.
At 2000 to 2500 miles, change the oil and filter again. Your bike is now pretty much completely broken in. There will still be a small amount of break in stuff happening until up to 10,000 miles, but it's nothing you have to think about. You can now get onto a sensible oil change schedule. I recommend changing your oil every 2500 miles if you use a normal automotive oil. If you use one of the recommended synthetic oils and recommend oil filters, you can confidently go 5,000 miles between changes. I go 8,000 to 9,000 miles on an oil change, and I measure the oil viscosity and detergent after every change. A good synthetic will hold up this long in a modern water-cooled engine. Except for the Ural, every motorcycle made after about 1985 has what I consider a modern engine. Even Harleys.
At about 50 miles, go home and change the oil and the filter. I strongly recommend you use a top quality oil filter, a Purolator Pure One, Mobil-1, Bosch, or SuperTech. I recommend you use a synthetic oil such as Shell Rotella, Mobil-1 SUV, or Delvac-1. If you simply can't bring yourself to use a synthetic in a new engine, use Chevron Delo-400. Don't use a 10w-30 oil. If your manufacturer recommends a 20w-50 oil, use Mobil-1 red cap or Chevron Delo-400 15w-40, which meets the high speed shear standards of a 20w-50 oil. Information on oils and oil filters is available on this web page, see the Lubricants section. When you take out your factory oil, if you hold it up in the sunlight you'll see the color is very good, it looks almost completely unused, but you'll see lots of reflections from metal flakes in the oil. These flakes are very bad for your engine, and can clog up your oil filter so that your filter bypass is activated, meaning you effectively don't have an oil filter. Notice that the factory says you should still be using the factory oil and oil filter. I think this is insane.
Corvettes and Porsches come from the factory with Mobil-1 in their engines. Remember, these engineers have designed world- champion engines for F1, Indy, Le Mans 24 hours, etc.
At this point, the bulk of your break-in is done. Your rings are substantially seated, your cylinder walls are scrubbed in, and your transmission gears have shed the bulk of their machining flaws. You can ride your bike now like it's broken in, except I recommend you try to avoid lugging the engine or running at a constant speed on the freeway for long times until after your next oil change.
When you have 500 to 800 miles on the bike, change the oil and filter again. Again, I recommend a synthetic oil, or Chevron Delo-400, or if the manufacturer recommends 20w-50 use Mobil-1 red cap or Chevron Delo-400 15w-40. If you have a drive shaft, now's the time to change your rear end gear lube. Use a good synthetic in there, like Mobil-1 or Valvoline synthetic gear lube. Continue to ride the bike normally. At this point, you can get on the freeway and drone if you simply must.
At 2000 to 2500 miles, change the oil and filter again. Your bike is now pretty much completely broken in. There will still be a small amount of break in stuff happening until up to 10,000 miles, but it's nothing you have to think about. You can now get onto a sensible oil change schedule. I recommend changing your oil every 2500 miles if you use a normal automotive oil. If you use one of the recommended synthetic oils and recommend oil filters, you can confidently go 5,000 miles between changes. I go 8,000 to 9,000 miles on an oil change, and I measure the oil viscosity and detergent after every change. A good synthetic will hold up this long in a modern water-cooled engine. Except for the Ural, every motorcycle made after about 1985 has what I consider a modern engine. Even Harleys.
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If you have the service manual in PDF format looks at page 149 section 3-11. The different oil weights have different operating temps. 20w-50 is good for 50-110+ fahrenheit. I live in Texas and ride in cooler temps than 50 so I run 10w-40 which has a operating temp range of 10-110 fahrenheitHere's what the manual says.
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This is the oil that I use now. When my bike was stock I was getting 200 miles a tank. ( I have been called out on this by people on this site but come to find out, I am not the only one.) I have not checked what I get now but I fill up at about 145 miles and put in anywhere from 3.6 to 4 gallons.
p://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/MAXIMA-SEMI-SYNTHETIC-4STROKE-ENGINE-OIL-10W40
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p://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/MAXIMA-SEMI-SYNTHETIC-4STROKE-ENGINE-OIL-10W40
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