great write up. I cant wait to try this mod. I will only do the 1in tho because of the 250 rear tire.
Thank you for clearing that up. Anyone that has installed a larger tire should know to check the clearance of the inner fender. When I did this to my VTX, I had to trim the inner fender to clear a larger tire. I'm sure that's the same issue with the Stryker. I have the 240 and will be installing the PCS lowering kit. I have it....just no time to install it yet. Come on weekend!!!Pacific said:We typically do our best not to inteject on forums, but in this case we have had several calls about Low and Means comment. Using lowering dog bones will not increase your chances of the rear wheel hitting the rear fender any more than any other type of lowering assembly. As with any modification you should always know, inspect and understand the limitations of the bike with regards to the modification you are installing.
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+1chubbleyum said:wow. that PCS kit really changes the geometry and balance of the bike. Almost have to learn to ride it again. feels great though to be huggin the road and flat-footed at stops is great. def worth the hour install and 50$
With all do respect, I was not directing my comment straight at PCS, this comment was for all aftermarket dog bones for the Star Stryker. Low and Mean has completely torn down our Stryker and worked out the geometry to come to the conclusion with lowering the Star Stryker. The done bones are a great cost effective solution with the stock tire, but you will have issues with the 240 tire.Pacific said:We typically do our best not to inteject on forums, but in this case we have had several calls about Low and Means comment. Using lowering dog bones will not increase your chances of the rear wheel hitting the rear fender any more than any other type of lowering assembly. As with any modification you should always know, inspect and understand the limitations of the bike with regards to the modification you are installing.
As a fellow business we would appreciate Low and Mean not making derogatory commnets about our products, or the products of other manufacturers.
You agree, through your use of this forum, that you will not post any material which is false, defamatory, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful, harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, adult material, or otherwise in violation of any International or United States Federal law.
Thank you and we wish Low and Mean the best with his products and business,
www.pacificcoaststar.com
Your exactly right, most of us will never bottom the shock out at 10.25", but everyone is different in size and who or what they carry on the back of the motorcycle. I can not confirm at what point in the shock travel the 240 tire on the stock rim (with the circumference of 6'10- 1/4") will touch the frame. I do know with the stock dog bones you will be ok, complete bottom out you'll have 1/2" (This is measure not in the center of the tire but 3" from center which is the lowest point of the frame. But now lower the bike 2.25" and subtract that from wheel travel and I'm guessing you'll hit with little effort over 60mph. This I can not confirm, but doing the math it would be my best guess.Bozzly said:L&M, When you did your testing, did you take into account making changes to the stiffness of the OEM Shock & Spring or was this only based on the original factory setting in the middle? If i read your statement correctly it sounds like the issue is if the shock compresses the full length of 10.25 then a 240 tire will hit the frame under the fender, but lets say a person weighs only 175 lbs and stiffens the stock shock & spring, I am thinking it would take jumping the grand canyon like evil knevil to compress that shock all the way to the 10.25 travel distance. Although, I dont know that for fact, I could be way off base here. Thanks