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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that there is another thread but I figured this would save people the time of reading through 10 pages of posts.
So this is the new 3" Forward Controls kit from Pacific Coast Star.
It has the brackets, spacers and bolts for the controls, a short rubber line to go from the reservoir to the brake master cylinder and a new brake line with banjo bolts and copper washers. The directions that came with the kit are basic and very easy to understand.

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10

The left side ( gear shifter ) was super easy and took about 15 minutes to install.
Loosen the lock nuts ( 10mm ) on the shift linkage.. Pay attention because one side if reverse thread.

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10
Once these are loose, just screw the rod and that's it. Remove to the two ( 12mm ) bolts that holds the bracket to the frame.
Install the extension bracket with the two ( 12mm ) bolts you just removed. ** Be sure to have the threaded holes towards the front of the bike.

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10

Put the spacers on the back of the original control bracket and use the bolts ( 17mm ) that came with the kit. I used red loctite on all bolts. That's it.. that side is done.

Before:

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10
After:

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10

With the spacers installed it does push the controls out about an 1"
These are both After shots, I didn't get any before.. duh.. brainfarted that one..lol..

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10

NOW!!! For the other side. You will have to remove the exhaust and three side covers.

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10
I didn’t' take any pictures of the brake lines, because it is pretty straight forward.
Once you get this done, undo the zip ties holding the brake lines, remove the brake line from the master cylinder to the caliper.
Remove the same ( 12mm ) bolts from the original bracket and repeat the same steps as the other side.
Once you have the controls mounted install the brake lines and bleed the system.
I removed the reservoir and bolted here temporarily to help with refilling it. ( ****ty location of the res ).

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10
Before:

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10
After:

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10

By rage1973 at 2011-09-10

I removed the horn and brake light switch wires and moved them from the front to the back of the bracket. That gave me plenty of room to clean up the install.

Total time was 2.5 hours from start to finish.

Review:
PROS:
Extension brackets are beefy and will do the job of supporting the weight
A sh!tload more comfortable while riding now... seriously... feels totally different.
Being able to stretch my legs out..lol...
Fairly easy install

CONS:
The new brake line is skimpy and I will be replacing in the future once I find the steel braided lines for the entire brake system.
I need to press down the rear brake lever more to get the same results are before. I think because of the smaller brake line.
The brake line also should have a 45 degree instead of a 90 degree fitting. It makes it a little more awkward when installing the brake line.
Since the pegs are a little further out, you will scrape a little sooner, but not much.

I would recommend this to others that are taller that me ( 5'11"). I hope this helps and if you have questions let me know!

Laterz
 

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clar2001 said:
Nice write up , that rear brake line does look pretty skimpy , to me it was a different bike being able to streach out, I was under the impression it would be harder to scrape the pegs being moved forward.
Nice job thanks.
It looks like they not only move forward but down a little as well. Maybe that's why they scrape sooner. I put on swing out pegs which will also scrape a little sooner but it's a rush I can deal with. Very nice write up Urban.
 

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Excellent write up. I just got back from a long ride to and from a bike show, and I am seriously considering giving these a try for comfort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know that if the spacers weren't installed it would not rub as easy. They are on becuase you can't mount the orginal bracket flush, because of the orignal ( 12 mm ) bolts. I am sure that I could notch out them out, if it really bothered me, but it doesn't.....yet.....lol

Definatly worth it!! Like Clar2001 said " feels like a different bike"
 

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what if you changed the bolts out with some counter sunk allen bolts. I think thats what im going to do. I got the kit just sitting here waiting for my bike to show up.
 

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UrbanRage said:
I know that if the spacers weren't installed it would not rub as easy. They are on becuase you can't mount the orginal bracket flush, because of the orignal ( 12 mm ) bolts. I am sure that I could notch out them out, if it really bothered me, but it doesn't.....yet.....lol

Definatly worth it!! Like Clar2001 said " feels like a different bike"
I did not install any spacers on mine had to grind a notch out of the control base so the one bolt would fit.
But I had the old kit that was done the hard way.
 

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I've never removed a brake line before. Do you have to drain the fluid out of the system before replacing it? Or does it have some sort of valves that keep the fluid in place while replacing?
 

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wouldnt worry about draining the fluid. it is going to leak when you take off the brake line. but once the new line is installed you will have to add brake fluid then bleed the brakes then add more to the correct level.
 

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Yosemite said:
wouldnt worry about draining the fluid. it is going to leak when you take off the brake line. but once the new line is installed you will have to add brake fluid then bleed the brakes then add more to the correct level.
Cool. Thanks Yosemite.

Thanks for the write-up Urban.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yosemite said:
wouldnt worry about draining the fluid. it is going to leak when you take off the brake line. but once the new line is installed you will have to add brake fluid then bleed the brakes then add more to the correct level.
Yep and Yamaha put the brake res in a terrible spot.. PITA to refill
 

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While searching the net for an old pcs kit without the brake line I stumbled across this kit. Its listed for the 1300 just like the pcs kits, and they have 4" and 6" kits. Unfortunately I cannot find any contact info which leaves me wondering if they would fit the stryker.

For those of you with the 3" kit installed, do you think the 3" or 4" would be better?

http://www.scootmods.net/product.php?id=34


 

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That looks ok not sure about ajusting the angle part of it , I would of bought that kit just to get the rod extention piece for the brakes,4 inches all depends how tall you are and how far forward you want your controls on the bike, go to far and it would look funny out in front by them self.

Thats a good find I might try the 4 inch.
 

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Rodekill said:
While searching the net for an old pcs kit without the brake line I stumbled across this kit. Its listed for the 1300 just like the pcs kits, and they have 4" and 6" kits. Unfortunately I cannot find any contact info which leaves me wondering if they would fit the stryker.

For those of you with the 3" kit installed, do you think the 3" or 4" would be better?

http://www.scootmods.net/product.php?id=34
Great find. I'm ordering these puppies for sure! An extra inch and no messing with the brake line - a win/win!
 

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I'm going under the assumption that a longer brake line will probably still be necessary as iirc the cylinder moves with the footpeg on the stryker. Either way, I'm sending my order off tomorrow to see what I can make of that kit.
 

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Rodekill said:
I'm going under the assumption that a longer brake line will probably still be necessary, but I'm sending my order off tomorrow. Guess I'll find out one way or another.
I don't think so the ss rod keeps your master back and just the controls move forward , 4 inches sounds nice I might try this to and to be able to ajust angle to could be interesting.
 

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I thought it was attached to the same piece the footpeg is attached to on the stryker, but I havent paid that much attention to it and I could be way off.
 
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