Question on How to change the speedometer faceplate
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Check that out ... Nyjol wrote it down. Step by step guide in pdf format.
http://files.me.com/nyjol3/3cvaf7
http://files.me.com/nyjol3/3cvaf7
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Like the instructions say: use a fork. Mine actually was on pretty tight and took a bit of effort. Just remember to pull straight out.
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Hi Nate,Natedog said:
its funny I just answered that in the Speedo Face thread in the Picture section. I can confirm that there is some kind of glue at the base of the needle. I saw it ...
http://www.yamahastarstryker.com/index.php/topic,1142.0.html
well after reading that low and means faceplates were just stickers, i decided screw paying them 45 bucks. so here is what i did
took the photoshop image shared on this thread (thanks) for sizing. did a screen print of the low and mean face plate that i liked, edited it some and then printed it on laminate paper. here's how
seperate the two pieces that you would normally slide the paper into. you will have to cut like 3/8's of an inch off one side to fit in the printer. using a standard printer, on the highest quality setting, i printed on the side thats supposed to heat. dont do it on the slick side, it wont stick. after printing, i let it sit under a fan for an hour to completely dry, and then put it in to laminate paper, and laminated. now i have see through numbers and images, that you cant get real well just using paper, and it was free... just have to have access to a laminater machine. if not, just buy laminate from staples or something, print it, dry it and bring it back to staples and have them do it for you.... all you have to do is cut a hole in the center for the needle to fit through, and your good to go... if you want it a little thicker, (it was pretty firm with just the way described before, but i actually laminated it a second time) and it was much more rigid... now just got to see how it lasts after everyone saying that theirs are bubbling.... i will let you know in a few weeks if its holding up, or sooner if it doesnt
photo is before i did any editing, just wanted to see if it would print ok on the laminate..... loooooks good
took the photoshop image shared on this thread (thanks) for sizing. did a screen print of the low and mean face plate that i liked, edited it some and then printed it on laminate paper. here's how
seperate the two pieces that you would normally slide the paper into. you will have to cut like 3/8's of an inch off one side to fit in the printer. using a standard printer, on the highest quality setting, i printed on the side thats supposed to heat. dont do it on the slick side, it wont stick. after printing, i let it sit under a fan for an hour to completely dry, and then put it in to laminate paper, and laminated. now i have see through numbers and images, that you cant get real well just using paper, and it was free... just have to have access to a laminater machine. if not, just buy laminate from staples or something, print it, dry it and bring it back to staples and have them do it for you.... all you have to do is cut a hole in the center for the needle to fit through, and your good to go... if you want it a little thicker, (it was pretty firm with just the way described before, but i actually laminated it a second time) and it was much more rigid... now just got to see how it lasts after everyone saying that theirs are bubbling.... i will let you know in a few weeks if its holding up, or sooner if it doesnt
photo is before i did any editing, just wanted to see if it would print ok on the laminate..... loooooks good
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Anybody else Get a faceplate and notice that it is starting to bubble?
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http://www.yamahastarstryker.com/index.php/topic,1142.msg44068.html#msg44068raven_stryker11 said:
Check out that link. A lot of people were getting bubbles. I think I heard there's a new manufacturing process so get in contact with him to send yours back to get a new one that's made differently.
yes the needle just pulls right off..... best way is using a kitchen fork..... slide the needle in between the ends of the fork, and gently pull up, slides right off.....
as for putting it back on, it can get frustrating... but not difficult.
with the needle off, start the bike, and let the warning lights go out.. the speedo will reset itself to zero.
at this time, you want to push the needle back on at the 0 position, ensuring that you get it as close as possible to the original height. if not, needle will stick, but once you do it one time, you see how easy it is and isnt a big deal, just annoying to have to dissassemble the speedo again.
good luck.
as for putting it back on, it can get frustrating... but not difficult.
with the needle off, start the bike, and let the warning lights go out.. the speedo will reset itself to zero.
at this time, you want to push the needle back on at the 0 position, ensuring that you get it as close as possible to the original height. if not, needle will stick, but once you do it one time, you see how easy it is and isnt a big deal, just annoying to have to dissassemble the speedo again.
good luck.
While you have that needle off how about changing that dull white to a powerful more visible neon?
You don't even need to pull the needle to brush on some color.
http://the-swatchaholic.com/?p=1790
You don't even need to pull the needle to brush on some color.
http://the-swatchaholic.com/?p=1790
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Yeah, I'm just getting the iCloud login also; I'm thinking Nyjol removed the file. Does anyone else have it and would like to post it?
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I got the same message, I would appreciate a reposted link :nod:
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I have this on PDF but don't know how to post as such. I may be able to email it but here is the write up.
Faceplate / LED Kit Installation
Step 1: Still gonna do it? OK: Remove the two
hex bolts securing the speedo cover and lift the
cover off of the speedo housing. (Fig 1)
Tools Needed: Metric Hex wrenches, Screwdriver - Install Time: 30-45 Minutes
Fig.1
Step 2: Tilt the front wheel all the way to one
side, and remove the three screws securing the
bottom of the speedo housing to its bracket.
(Fig 2) You may need to tilt all the way right,
then all the way to the left to get the "nal screw
without scratching the gas tank.
Fig.2
BY INSTALLING THESE YOURSELF YOU ACKNOWLEDGE THE RISKS OF DOING SO,
INCLUDING INJURY OR DAMAGE TO YOUR BIKE, AS WELL AS POSSIBLY VOIDING YOUR
WARRANTY, AND AGREE TO HOLD BIKERMOJO HARMLESS FOR ANY INJURY OR
DAMAGES YOU MAY INCUR. IF YOU HAVE ANY DOUBT REGARDING YOUR ABILITY TO
DO THIS INSTALL, PLEASE HAVE IT INSTALLED BY AN AUTHORIZED DEALER OR
SERVICE CENTER. Of course, any do-it-yourself-er knows this stuff already, but it has to be said anyways.
Step 3: Turn the speedo housing over and on the
bottom, remove the 6 screws holding the top and
bottom halves of the speedo housing together (3 on
top, 3 along bottom edge), and gently pry the top half
off. (Fig 3A) FOR FACEPLATE INSTALL WITHOUT LED,
SKIP TO STEP 5.
Step 4: Remove the three screws securing the control
board to the lower housing (Fig 3B), followed by the
plastic wire clamp (Fig 3C). Pull the rubber cover for
the wiring off of the lower housing, exposing the
wires. GENTLY pull the control board up, feeding the
wiring up into the lower housing as much as possible.
You’ll only get about an inch of space, which is
enough. Feed the female LED plug down through the
hole so the plug it above the control board and the
exposed wires are through the hole (Fig 4). Using
tapping end of the Posi-Tap connectors, tap into the
red wire with a white stripe (+), and the black wire
with dark green hashes (-)(Fig 5). At this point, turn the key
to “on”, plug in the male lead on the LED strip to the female
plug on the lead (CAREFUL not to bend the male wires
inside the female plug), and test the light strip. Uncap the
red connector caps of the posi-taps, and touch the wires of
the female plug to the inside of the Posi-Tap bodies to test
and verify the wire’s (+) and (-) wiring. ***(+) and (-) wiring
can be inconsistent with batches from the LED
manufacturer, so TEST YOUR LIGHT!!!*** Once you’ve
veri"ed that it works, connect the lead wires into posi-taps
as shown (Fig 5). Tuck the posi-taps up inside the
speedo housing, and re-secure the rubber boot and
screw in the plastic clamp (Fig 3C). Screw the control
board back into the lower housing (Fig 3B). Unplug
the LED strip.
Fig.3
Fig.5
Fig.4
Fig.6
Step 5: Place the speedo housing back in its bracket. Using only one of the three screws (Fig 2), cinch
the housing to the bracket (trust me, this will make life easier). STOP HERE AND TAKE NOTE OF HOW
MUCH SPACE IS BETWEEN THE NEEDLE AND THE FACEPLATE!!!! Using a fork, slide the tines under
the needle and GENTLY BUT FIRMLY move the speedometer needle STRAIGHT up and out of the
control board. Firm, even force is needed, applying the force straight upwards, OUT OF THE CONTROL
BOARD. (Fig 7A) TAKE
CARE NOT TO BEND THE
NEEDLE!! Take your time,
and don’t get impatient!!
(I typically use my thumb
and fore"nger on both
hands at the same time to
gently but "rmly ease the
needle up by putting
even pressure from all
four digits underneath the
needle - kind of like
‘rolling’ the "ngers up
underneath the needle,
leveraging against the
s p e e d o f a c e p l a t e . )
Remove the two faceplate
screws holding the faceplate to the control board (Fig. 7A). Pry the faceplate up and off of the control
board using one of the tabs on either side and/or the bottom. Use a "ngernail or small #at
screwdriver to get a hold of it. Don’t force it - it’ll come off if you gently pry your way around the tabs.
For Make sure to replace any of the rubber LED tubes that may have fallen out of the control board.
FOR FACEPLATE INSTALL WITHOUT LED, SKIP TO STEP 7.
Step 6: Decide the positioning of your 3M strips BEFORE APPLYING ADHESION PROMOTER - the stuff
is WICKED sticky, and once you apply the strips, you will not be able to reposition them easily!!
Prepare the inside surface of the lower housing for the 3M strips by using the adhesion promoter
sponge. Lightly rub the sponge along the inside edge of the lower housing, CAREFUL NOT TO DRIP
PROMOTER DOWN ONTO THE CONTROL BOARD. Allow the promoter to sit for 3-5 minutes before
placing the 3M strips. Remove the backing and position the four 3M strips to be just above the edge
of the control board, staggering them between the bumps as seen in Fig 7. Press the strips "rmly
against the housing to ensure adhesion. If your LED strip has pre-applied strips, they may have
detached slightly during shipping. Press them "rmly against the strip before attaching the LEDs to
the housing. If yours are not pre-applied, remove the backing from both the LED and the 3M strips.
Place the smaller 3M strips (thinner; typically packaged attached to each other in your kit) on the back
of the LED, spacing them in accordance with your housing strips. Plug in your LED and tuck the wires
underneath the control board. Place the BlackBack light blocker on the control board. Be sure to line
it up so that there are three indicators on the left and four on the right. Because the BlackBack is too
thin to be laser cut at fabrication, you may need to trim it with scissors in order for it to lay #at without
buckling once you put the faceplate over it.
Fig.7
Step 8:Remove the single screw holding the housing to its bracket, and WITH THE POWER “ON”,
screw 3 of the 6 screws back in to re-join the upper and lower housings. AT THIS POINT, VERIFY THAT
THE NEEDLE IS STILL WORKING PROPERLY. Once you are con"dent in the function of the needle, turn
the key “off”, screw in the other 3 screws and "nish reassembling the speedometer, following steps
1-3 in reverse order. That’s it - now go "re that beast up and take a ride!
Step 7: Place your BikerMojo faceplate into the housing, and after con"rming the "t, secure it
using the two speedo faceplate screws. Turn your key to “on” so that there is power to the speedo.
Let it go through the startup sequence until the display reads normally. At this point, the needle
housing will have set itself at “0”. GENTLY BUT FIRMLY, using steady, even pressure on BOTH sides of
the needle hub, press the needle down into its hole until you feel some resistance, stopping at the
same distance from the faceplate as noted in Step 4. IF YOU DON’T PUT THE NEEDLE FAR
ENOUGH IN, IT WILL “STICK” WHEN YOU GO ON A RIDE, REQUIRING YOU TO TAKE IT APART
AGAIN TO RE-SET THE NEEDLE. Switch the bike back off and on again, and verify that the needle
goes from 0 to 130 (200 if KPH) and back, stopping at 0. If it descends below 0 or stops above it,
remove the needle, “reboot” the bike, and repeat until you have the needle in the proper place. IF
YOU DON’T PUT THE NEEDLE FAR ENOUGH IN, IT WILL “STICK” WHEN YOU TAKE A RIDE, REQUIRING
YOU TO TAKE IT APART AGAIN TO RE-SET THE NEEDLE.
Faceplate / LED Kit Installation
Step 1: Still gonna do it? OK: Remove the two
hex bolts securing the speedo cover and lift the
cover off of the speedo housing. (Fig 1)
Tools Needed: Metric Hex wrenches, Screwdriver - Install Time: 30-45 Minutes
Fig.1
Step 2: Tilt the front wheel all the way to one
side, and remove the three screws securing the
bottom of the speedo housing to its bracket.
(Fig 2) You may need to tilt all the way right,
then all the way to the left to get the "nal screw
without scratching the gas tank.
Fig.2
BY INSTALLING THESE YOURSELF YOU ACKNOWLEDGE THE RISKS OF DOING SO,
INCLUDING INJURY OR DAMAGE TO YOUR BIKE, AS WELL AS POSSIBLY VOIDING YOUR
WARRANTY, AND AGREE TO HOLD BIKERMOJO HARMLESS FOR ANY INJURY OR
DAMAGES YOU MAY INCUR. IF YOU HAVE ANY DOUBT REGARDING YOUR ABILITY TO
DO THIS INSTALL, PLEASE HAVE IT INSTALLED BY AN AUTHORIZED DEALER OR
SERVICE CENTER. Of course, any do-it-yourself-er knows this stuff already, but it has to be said anyways.
Step 3: Turn the speedo housing over and on the
bottom, remove the 6 screws holding the top and
bottom halves of the speedo housing together (3 on
top, 3 along bottom edge), and gently pry the top half
off. (Fig 3A) FOR FACEPLATE INSTALL WITHOUT LED,
SKIP TO STEP 5.
Step 4: Remove the three screws securing the control
board to the lower housing (Fig 3B), followed by the
plastic wire clamp (Fig 3C). Pull the rubber cover for
the wiring off of the lower housing, exposing the
wires. GENTLY pull the control board up, feeding the
wiring up into the lower housing as much as possible.
You’ll only get about an inch of space, which is
enough. Feed the female LED plug down through the
hole so the plug it above the control board and the
exposed wires are through the hole (Fig 4). Using
tapping end of the Posi-Tap connectors, tap into the
red wire with a white stripe (+), and the black wire
with dark green hashes (-)(Fig 5). At this point, turn the key
to “on”, plug in the male lead on the LED strip to the female
plug on the lead (CAREFUL not to bend the male wires
inside the female plug), and test the light strip. Uncap the
red connector caps of the posi-taps, and touch the wires of
the female plug to the inside of the Posi-Tap bodies to test
and verify the wire’s (+) and (-) wiring. ***(+) and (-) wiring
can be inconsistent with batches from the LED
manufacturer, so TEST YOUR LIGHT!!!*** Once you’ve
veri"ed that it works, connect the lead wires into posi-taps
as shown (Fig 5). Tuck the posi-taps up inside the
speedo housing, and re-secure the rubber boot and
screw in the plastic clamp (Fig 3C). Screw the control
board back into the lower housing (Fig 3B). Unplug
the LED strip.
Fig.3
Fig.5
Fig.4
Fig.6
Step 5: Place the speedo housing back in its bracket. Using only one of the three screws (Fig 2), cinch
the housing to the bracket (trust me, this will make life easier). STOP HERE AND TAKE NOTE OF HOW
MUCH SPACE IS BETWEEN THE NEEDLE AND THE FACEPLATE!!!! Using a fork, slide the tines under
the needle and GENTLY BUT FIRMLY move the speedometer needle STRAIGHT up and out of the
control board. Firm, even force is needed, applying the force straight upwards, OUT OF THE CONTROL
BOARD. (Fig 7A) TAKE
CARE NOT TO BEND THE
NEEDLE!! Take your time,
and don’t get impatient!!
(I typically use my thumb
and fore"nger on both
hands at the same time to
gently but "rmly ease the
needle up by putting
even pressure from all
four digits underneath the
needle - kind of like
‘rolling’ the "ngers up
underneath the needle,
leveraging against the
s p e e d o f a c e p l a t e . )
Remove the two faceplate
screws holding the faceplate to the control board (Fig. 7A). Pry the faceplate up and off of the control
board using one of the tabs on either side and/or the bottom. Use a "ngernail or small #at
screwdriver to get a hold of it. Don’t force it - it’ll come off if you gently pry your way around the tabs.
For Make sure to replace any of the rubber LED tubes that may have fallen out of the control board.
FOR FACEPLATE INSTALL WITHOUT LED, SKIP TO STEP 7.
Step 6: Decide the positioning of your 3M strips BEFORE APPLYING ADHESION PROMOTER - the stuff
is WICKED sticky, and once you apply the strips, you will not be able to reposition them easily!!
Prepare the inside surface of the lower housing for the 3M strips by using the adhesion promoter
sponge. Lightly rub the sponge along the inside edge of the lower housing, CAREFUL NOT TO DRIP
PROMOTER DOWN ONTO THE CONTROL BOARD. Allow the promoter to sit for 3-5 minutes before
placing the 3M strips. Remove the backing and position the four 3M strips to be just above the edge
of the control board, staggering them between the bumps as seen in Fig 7. Press the strips "rmly
against the housing to ensure adhesion. If your LED strip has pre-applied strips, they may have
detached slightly during shipping. Press them "rmly against the strip before attaching the LEDs to
the housing. If yours are not pre-applied, remove the backing from both the LED and the 3M strips.
Place the smaller 3M strips (thinner; typically packaged attached to each other in your kit) on the back
of the LED, spacing them in accordance with your housing strips. Plug in your LED and tuck the wires
underneath the control board. Place the BlackBack light blocker on the control board. Be sure to line
it up so that there are three indicators on the left and four on the right. Because the BlackBack is too
thin to be laser cut at fabrication, you may need to trim it with scissors in order for it to lay #at without
buckling once you put the faceplate over it.
Fig.7
Step 8:Remove the single screw holding the housing to its bracket, and WITH THE POWER “ON”,
screw 3 of the 6 screws back in to re-join the upper and lower housings. AT THIS POINT, VERIFY THAT
THE NEEDLE IS STILL WORKING PROPERLY. Once you are con"dent in the function of the needle, turn
the key “off”, screw in the other 3 screws and "nish reassembling the speedometer, following steps
1-3 in reverse order. That’s it - now go "re that beast up and take a ride!
Step 7: Place your BikerMojo faceplate into the housing, and after con"rming the "t, secure it
using the two speedo faceplate screws. Turn your key to “on” so that there is power to the speedo.
Let it go through the startup sequence until the display reads normally. At this point, the needle
housing will have set itself at “0”. GENTLY BUT FIRMLY, using steady, even pressure on BOTH sides of
the needle hub, press the needle down into its hole until you feel some resistance, stopping at the
same distance from the faceplate as noted in Step 4. IF YOU DON’T PUT THE NEEDLE FAR
ENOUGH IN, IT WILL “STICK” WHEN YOU GO ON A RIDE, REQUIRING YOU TO TAKE IT APART
AGAIN TO RE-SET THE NEEDLE. Switch the bike back off and on again, and verify that the needle
goes from 0 to 130 (200 if KPH) and back, stopping at 0. If it descends below 0 or stops above it,
remove the needle, “reboot” the bike, and repeat until you have the needle in the proper place. IF
YOU DON’T PUT THE NEEDLE FAR ENOUGH IN, IT WILL “STICK” WHEN YOU TAKE A RIDE, REQUIRING
YOU TO TAKE IT APART AGAIN TO RE-SET THE NEEDLE.
Joined
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138 Posts
PDF file
Yeah Joe, if you want to email the PDF file to '[email protected](letter after F)mail.com I will host it so that we can create a link with pictures etc. On the email address, just take out everything in parentheses so it looks like "gmail.com".
Yeah Joe, if you want to email the PDF file to '[email protected](letter after F)mail.com I will host it so that we can create a link with pictures etc. On the email address, just take out everything in parentheses so it looks like "gmail.com".
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