[dfw_rider]

I'm working on getting the Wolo Bad Boy installed. I'm going to mount onto the highway bar. And I'd prefer to have the relay and fuse under the seat. But I have questions regarding the cabling. I'm looking at the Stryker Service Manual and the Wolo Install Instructions as references.

The horn lead goes from the horn, along the down tube under the bike. Then it gets to a point and I assume it travels upwards but I can't feel it. Where does it go from there? How does it get to the horn switch?

The instructions say to use the existing horn wires, but if I can't trace them out, will I have to splice into them at the original horn location, then run new wires to under the seat?

 

[dfw_rider]

I've taken the tank off and see the horn switch is a grouped with 8 wires as it enters the first wiring harness, then it merges into a larger jumble, and into a third larger jumble.

I think I'm going to splice into the wires at the original horn. Then run those up, down the tank, and into the battery compartment. Then I'll run two more wires back to the horn's location.

 

[dfw_rider]

It's finished and working. I'll work on a DIY for others.

 

[Frag]

It's finished and working. I'll work on a DIY for others.

This is something I would be very interested in. I want to buy that bad boy for a while but feel that the installation will be a pain...

 

[SmokenJoe]

I didn't use a relay when I installed mine. The original set up is good for stock horn, why not for a different horn. It's not like it stays on all the time. Only when you push the button.
I used the same wires and "stretched" them a little by cutting some of the clips.

 

[roger]

I was thinking the something 12v is 12v why can't you use the original wires?

 

[11Stryker]

YEp Yep Yep!

 

[dfw_rider]

I don't know about the Stryker, but there are YouTube videos of installs using only the original wires then they pop a fuse. I'm fairly certain that the Stryker doesn't have a fused horn. So, if you held the horn down for an extended time, what might happen?
Well, you might draw enough current to fry your switch. The relay stands in for this current draw and protects your switch. You also add a fuse inline with the battery.

The relay and 20A fuse are recommended by Wolo and Stebel for a reason.

"why not a different horn?" Because this horn draws much more current than the stock.

 

[SmokenJoe]

There is a fuse for the horn.........same as directionals, 10amps.

 

[Frag]

There is a fuse for the horn.........same as directionals, 10amps.

I did not play around in the fuse box yet, and I am far from my bike now ... but could we just upgrade the fuse to 20 amps straight in the box?

 

[SmokenJoe]

There is a fuse for the horn.........same as directionals, 10amps.

I did not play around in the fuse box yet, and I am far from my bike now ... but could we just upgrade the fuse to 20 amps straight in the box?

Not necessary. Just leave it be. Rather have it blow a fuse than fry something. Haven't blown mine yet.

 

[kraaazymike]

There is a fuse for the horn.........same as directionals, 10amps.

I did not play around in the fuse box yet, and I am far from my bike now ... but could we just upgrade the fuse to 20 amps straight in the box?

Reiterating what DFW said earlier: The horn requires a larger current to operate than the stock horn. The relay takes fused power directly from the battery and uses the horn button to tell it when to turn on and off. You could change the fuse to 20 amps for the stock horn, but the weakest point in the horn system would be the switch. Over time, drawing all that power (20amps) from a line rated at 10 amps will inevitably fry your switch.

 

[Frag]

Ok so I guess it would be to have direct current from the battery connected (to a relay) to the airhorn ...and use the previous horn wire to activate that relay.

I did not open the fuse box yet. Is there any places for a a new 20amp fuse for the new horn?

 

[SmokenJoe]

Its a inline fuse.

 

[Craig]

I put the Wolo Bad Boy on my old vulcan and loved the sound, got some punch.
Would like one on the Stryker, but placement.
This thing is big, and hard to hide.
Without highway bars were would you put it?
Any alternative smaller loud horns?

 

[kraaazymike]

I put the Wolo Bad Boy on my old vulcan and loved the sound, got some punch.
Would like one on the Stryker, but placement.
This thing is big, and hard to hide.
Without highway bars were would you put it?
Any alternative smaller loud horns?

http://m.motorcycle-superstore.com/ItemPage.aspx?DivisionGroupId=3&DivisionId=13&DepartmentId=123&ItemStyleId=17147
With the steeble on my last vulcan, im in the exact same boat as you. I haven't used this one personally but I've heard lots of good things.

 

[1304cc]

I replaced my stock horn with a Fiamm Freeway Blaster. I didn't want to mess with extra wiring, and I'm very pleased with the sound.

 

[Craig]

Thanks wormburner, think I will try that one. Like the idea of just using the stock wiring.

 

[Saltyseafarer]

I put the Wolo Bad Boy on my old vulcan and loved the sound, got some punch.
Would like one on the Stryker, but placement.
This thing is big, and hard to hide.
Without highway bars were would you put it?
Any alternative smaller loud horns?

Good alternative is the PIAA Twin Slimline I have on my bike, talked about in this thread. YouTube video/sound bite follows.
http://www.yamahastarstryker.com/index.php/topic,1326.msg19121.html#msg19121

 

[mkohnen]

I've seen some threads on here about mounting and eyeing horns but nothing on which sounds the best or at least more manly than stock. Tips?