Re: PCS Lowering Connectors
Does anybody know if there are front fork extensions available for the Stryker?
Does anybody know if there are front fork extensions available for the Stryker?
Re: PCS Lowering Connectors
Re: PCS Lowering Connectors
The PCS directions were mediocre but installing these was not that bad. Here are some tips, and I
will plug in the photos of progress later.
1) I removed the upper and lower belt guards to make life easier. Two things, the upper and lower bolts on the rear of the guards do not need to be removed since they are only attached to a backing plate, and it’s easier to remove the lower guard by turning it upside down in place,,,just make sure you don’t lose the little bushings.
I found it helpful when aligning the lift under the frame to put blocks under the kickstand to stand the bike upright.
2) I used a long box end wrench on the right side of the dog bones wedged against ground or swing arm and a ratcheting box end on the left. Once the left bolt broke free it was easy.
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3)I found that placing different sized boards under the rear tire and working the lift height made removing the dog bones and bolts a snap. The bushing on both can move quite a bit and is necessary to clear the frame on the lower bolt ,and the coolant reservoir on the top bolt.
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4) Putting the new connectors on is the reverse operation. PLEASE note – the end of the connectors with the round hole goes on the top. This had me scratching my head for a minute since it is not mentioned at all in the instructions. Both connectors need to face the same way and the longer detent faces the front of the bike. I found it easier to put the bolt in at the bottom first and then do the top.
5) I put loctite on the threads and finger tightened the nuts(don’t forget the washers). I ratcheted down the nuts enough to allow just a little play in the connectors. Lowering the jack a bit seated the connector and I then tightened it completely.
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6) Put the belt guards back on and set the bike back down on the ground.
The 1 inch drop is not that noticeable in the picture, but I can now plant both feet firmly on the ground wearing flat shoes and I have an inseam of 30 inches. One person can do the job, but 2 would make it much easier. Any questions….just let me know.
![]()
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The PCS directions were mediocre but installing these was not that bad. Here are some tips, and I
will plug in the photos of progress later.
1) I removed the upper and lower belt guards to make life easier. Two things, the upper and lower bolts on the rear of the guards do not need to be removed since they are only attached to a backing plate, and it’s easier to remove the lower guard by turning it upside down in place,,,just make sure you don’t lose the little bushings.
I found it helpful when aligning the lift under the frame to put blocks under the kickstand to stand the bike upright.
2) I used a long box end wrench on the right side of the dog bones wedged against ground or swing arm and a ratcheting box end on the left. Once the left bolt broke free it was easy.
3)I found that placing different sized boards under the rear tire and working the lift height made removing the dog bones and bolts a snap. The bushing on both can move quite a bit and is necessary to clear the frame on the lower bolt ,and the coolant reservoir on the top bolt.
4) Putting the new connectors on is the reverse operation. PLEASE note – the end of the connectors with the round hole goes on the top. This had me scratching my head for a minute since it is not mentioned at all in the instructions. Both connectors need to face the same way and the longer detent faces the front of the bike. I found it easier to put the bolt in at the bottom first and then do the top.
5) I put loctite on the threads and finger tightened the nuts(don’t forget the washers). I ratcheted down the nuts enough to allow just a little play in the connectors. Lowering the jack a bit seated the connector and I then tightened it completely.
6) Put the belt guards back on and set the bike back down on the ground.
The 1 inch drop is not that noticeable in the picture, but I can now plant both feet firmly on the ground wearing flat shoes and I have an inseam of 30 inches. One person can do the job, but 2 would make it much easier. Any questions….just let me know.
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Re: PCS Lowering Connectors
Skematik said:i agree, i have the Cobra 250 and am lowered 1" but rarely scrape.Bozzly said:If your riding that aggresively to scrape that much now, You mine as well stock up on pegs if you lower the bike, Cause you will be going through them...mx918mx said:
Wow ... no kidding. I've still got the stock 210 tire on and before I lowered, I'd occasionally drag pegs around corners,..... but since I've installed my PCS lowering links, (I have them at the 2.25" drop notch) .... I'm now dragging the heck right out of both of my new Kury zombie pegs, plus the stilettos I had on before these. I just ordered my 240 tire last night so if I'm lucky I get it mounted this weekend or beginning of next week and that should help give me just enough additional ground clearance to make me a bit more comfortable going into corners a bit hotter than I get to since the 2" drop. If you have a 240 you might be ok, but if you're on the stocker 210, I'd opt to change out to a 240 or 250 before you lower your bike.
1 - 7 of 177 Posts
