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Re: PCS Lowering Connectors

48404 Views 176 Replies 63 Participants Last post by  BrettRTR
Re: PCS Lowering Connectors

The PCS directions were mediocre but installing these was not that bad. Here are some tips, and I
will plug in the photos of progress later.

1) I removed the upper and lower belt guards to make life easier. Two things, the upper and lower bolts on the rear of the guards do not need to be removed since they are only attached to a backing plate, and it’s easier to remove the lower guard by turning it upside down in place,,,just make sure you don’t lose the little bushings.

I found it helpful when aligning the lift under the frame to put blocks under the kickstand to stand the bike upright.

2) I used a long box end wrench on the right side of the dog bones wedged against ground or swing arm and a ratcheting box end on the left. Once the left bolt broke free it was easy.

3)I found that placing different sized boards under the rear tire and working the lift height made removing the dog bones and bolts a snap. The bushing on both can move quite a bit and is necessary to clear the frame on the lower bolt ,and the coolant reservoir on the top bolt.

4) Putting the new connectors on is the reverse operation. PLEASE note – the end of the connectors with the round hole goes on the top. This had me scratching my head for a minute since it is not mentioned at all in the instructions. Both connectors need to face the same way and the longer detent faces the front of the bike. I found it easier to put the bolt in at the bottom first and then do the top.

5) I put loctite on the threads and finger tightened the nuts(don’t forget the washers). I ratcheted down the nuts enough to allow just a little play in the connectors. Lowering the jack a bit seated the connector and I then tightened it completely.

6) Put the belt guards back on and set the bike back down on the ground.

The 1 inch drop is not that noticeable in the picture, but I can now plant both feet firmly on the ground wearing flat shoes and I have an inseam of 30 inches. One person can do the job, but 2 would make it much easier. Any questions….just let me know.

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Re: PCS Lowering Connectors

Hey PCS- I got divorced from first wife 26 years ago. She has spread alot of **** over those years, but I always took the attitude of I can't control what she says or whether who she tells wants to believe it or not. So I don't let it get to me. I just remain positive and ignore what I hear and try not to say anything negative. I take the High road and let it be. Most people can judge for themselves what they want to believe. otherwise it could turn into a Witchhunt.
Re: PCS Lowering Connectors

Sold! Just Bought Them! Thanks!!
Re: PCS Lowering Connectors

Go for it! Hopefully they dont throw down salt on the roads like they do here in NYS.
Re: PCS Lowering Connectors

That sucks, We always have to wait for a good heavy rain here in the Spring after Winter is over before take bikes out on the road.
Re: PCS Lowering Connectors

Re: PCS Lowering Connectors

midasp said:
I have the link and spring combo. I have it on the lowest setting. No problem with riding with wife on stock tire. I'm 250 and shes about 130lbs so total at 380 and no rubbing. I did notice the progressive spring is a bit bigger then the stock one so just make sure you center it evenly on the shock purches. I have put about 400 miles on it since with wife on it about 50% of those 400 miles. No issues what so ever. great product!!!
So I take it that progressive makes just a spring without the shock? My 1" lowering Progressive is a Shock /Spring assy. and is infinitly adjustable.
If you ride 2-up or have your rear shock preload set low- you will most likely have problems with the links set at 2-1/4 with even the 240 tire.. Many have found that out already. with the 240, you may only need to add washers between the lower guard and their mounting bracket to eliminate any scuffing. The 250, you will have to do some trimming of the lower guard and maybe add washers between your upper guard and their mounts. Also keep in mind the different heights of each brand of tire. Avon is lowest, Metzler & Michelin midway, and Dunlop being the tallest of the 240's. You only have the option of Avon or Dunlop for a 250. This is pic with 250 Avon on 8" PM wheel: http://www.yamahastarstryker.com/me...s-11stryker-s-ride-picture6394-52013-007.html And a pic of my 260-35R18 that I am running on 9-1/4" widened rim now: http://www.yamahastarstryker.com/me...4-widened-rim-picture24330-dscn1088-copy.html Here is pic of 240 Avon on 8" PM wheel:
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I know this is for lowering the rear but does any one know if there is a 1" lowering kit for the front as well? I would really prefer to do both over just the rear as that is how I had my Vulcan 900
Just loosen your pinch bolts on the triple trees around the fork tubes and slide
the whole forks up through the trees an inch and then retorque the pinch bolts. you will want a bike jack to hold bike while you are doing this.
It's really that easy and not going to mess anything up
Seriously that easy.:nod: Just consider that it will be extremely easy to scape pegs lowering both front and back of bike. More so because of the lowering in front.
Do you have any pictures of what it looks like? I'M moving my pegs forward as well. I have the kit but can't do it till next weekend
I have 2" fork extensions on mine. Opposite of what your looking to do.
Where did u get the fork extensions?

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