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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Re: stryker........baffles out

I removed my baffles tonight, the whole works and i have to say that it was a pain. It is loud and sounds great but if you are going to do this, get ready to work. The second one went a lot easier once you see how it is all mounted. I did not take pics while i was doing it but here it goes:

1) Remove exhaust, wrap in something (towel) i scratched mine
2) use a dremel, or drill enough holes to remove center of pipe, you want to make enough room to fit a reciprocating saw in there.
3) cut the center out about 2 in back
4) This is the awesome part and requires air tools, use a cut off wheel to cut around the outside edge, you will see 2 layers of metal at this point, one is what holds it in and the other is the actual baffle.
5) Use a chisel or screw driver and hammer to brake the "collar" you cut in step 4
6) At this point you can identify the collar and the baffle, the collar get smaller towards the rear of the muffler, you need, need to cut as far back as possible to get the baffle out.
7) Remove baffle, it will not come out easily, the best way is with a slide hammer with a vice grip attachment, you may be able to rent one from your local autoparts store.
8) Good luck, make sure you bring some alcohol to ease the anger
 

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Re: stryker........baffles out

dutchs said:
I removed my baffles tonight, the whole works and i have to say that it was a pain. It is loud and sounds great but if you are going to do this, get ready to work. The second one went a lot easier once you see how it is all mounted. I did not take pics while i was doing it but here it goes:

1) Remove exhaust, wrap in something (towel) i scratched mine
2) use a dremel, or drill enough holes to remove center of pipe, you want to make enough room to fit a reciprocating saw in there.
3) cut the center out about 2 in back
4) This is the awesome part and requires air tools, use a cut off wheel to cut around the outside edge, you will see 2 layers of metal at this point, one is what holds it in and the other is the actual baffle.
5) Use a chisel or screw driver and hammer to brake the "collar" you cut in step 4
6) At this point you can identify the collar and the baffle, the collar get smaller towards the rear of the muffler, you need, need to cut as far back as possible to get the baffle out.
7) Remove baffle, it will not come out easily, the best way is with a slide hammer with a vice grip attachment, you may be able to rent one from your local autoparts store.
8) Good luck, make sure you bring some alcohol to ease the anger
Super! Thanks for sharing this info. Will help many i'm sure!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I do not think you will like the baffles completely out. If you do decide to do the mod, try and deep the baffles in tack, you can cut off the last 4 inches on the end and stuff them back in, then they sound a lot better and will not be so obnoxious.
 

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Re: stryker........baffles out

tremorous said:
I just drilled four 1/2 inch holes to each pipe and like the sound but does anyone have a sound bit with the baffles completely removed?
I don't have a sound clip but if you're near northern Indiana stop by and listen to mine.
It's loud...my baffles are out..
 

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Re: stryker........baffles out

after searching many websites and forums to find out how to remove the baffles on my stryker i pretty much tried all the ways tried.

the first think i did was drill small holes in the cone at the end of the muffler. i started with 1/4" hole, 5 per tip. like anything addicting... i wanted more sound... but first rode the bike to see if there were any performance issues. none occured. 100 mile test...

so, i upped the whole size to 1/2 holes and it sounded great. same 100 mile run to make sure didnt have any issues, and again the bike was still running fine. this is where i got into actually taking the baffles out. im just going to say, it sucks. not only did it suck to remove them, i really didn't gain much more sound after removing the baffles then i did when i just had the 1/2 holes in it. personally, i like the look a lot better. big wide open pipes, but again, not much change in sound.

so first i modified a saw zaw blade to make it narrower, and just cut through the holes i had already drilled. first using the outer side as my final cut, and then again to give a gap between the baffle and actual exhaust pipe. thats the easy part.

some people said that they just wiggled the baffles back and forth a bunch to get the welds to break. i guess it could work, but i wasn't gonna spend an hour moving it back and fourth half an inch. i used a pair of vice grips, gripping inside of the baffle tip and then a 4 ft piece of steel with a notch that the vice grips fit in to turn it, took another guy (one holds the pipes in place, while the other torques the baffles, both popped right out... sweet. thought i was done. wrong. they slide out about 1 inch, and then that was it, they are flared on the end. so using a steel rod that i ground down on the end to a flat tip i pounded in around the hole around the baffle to get more room to slide it out. then they popped right out, then cleaned up the tips and was done, but again not too much more sound than just the holes.

among other forums i did read that some people were having issues with a rough idle at times, after completely removing the baffles. sadly i am going to have to confirm that indeed at times it does seem to bog down for a second after revving the engine, but as far as performance lag, i noticed no difference.

my next project will be to remove the catalitic converter that is it at the front of the muffler.

I also ran the bike with just straight pipes, (removed the entire muffler and just rode. There is a bit of performance increase, but it is one loud mf. does back fire a bit in down shifting, but nothing horrible.

it is not super loud. people keep saying its going to be so loud its going to hurt your head. no. the catty is still in the front of the muffler and muffles a lot of the noise, yes it is louder but nothing like having just straight pipes. its a nice mod for enough noise to be heard but not so much that is it bothersome. after about 40mph wind pretty much drones out the sound of the pipes.

other things i have done was replace the brake light with a intergrated turn signal, and cut off the back plastic under the light for a much cleaner and meaner look, new mirrors, forward extension controls, and a side plate mount. i will add pictures soon

feel free to email me questions.

light mod was 30 bucks, you can actually use the brake like off of an r6 i believe a 2004, its the same shape, same mount, and same plug, all you have to do is splice in the turn signals.
 
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