Yes please. :nod:AWESOME!!!!! I have been looking for a way to get around this(especially when I install the forward controls; horn is already gone). Thank you so much.
BTW, can you list the part number and where you got it?
Thanks again. Part of the job is easier for me because I have the Cobra slip-on. Have to check in the morning how to get at the reservoir but hoping not too bad or that some sort of syringe will make it better.Got it off eBay for $7 shipped from china. They have a wide selection of different styles. I got one like this as I liked the 90 deg. boot: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Press...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d5e8f4e1&vxp=mtr
I had to clip off their connector and put in my own bullet connectors, and then do the same with the stock light switch harness. Toughest part is bleeding the brakes: the swept pipes seem to be in the way of everything. Getting to the fluid reservoir is a PITA. Getting to the bleed valve is a PITA. I found that removing the lower wheel cylinder bolt let the cylinder swing down making access to the bleed valve a lot easier.
To get to the reservoir remove the black plastic triangular side cover and find the access hole to remove the one screw holding the reservoir. It will drop down to the point where removing the buddy peg bracket will expose the reservoir. The swept "hump" covers the lower bracket bolt which makes removing the bracket a PITA. If your bracket bolts are fully exposed its not too bad to deal with.Have to check in the morning how to get at the reservoir but hoping not too bad or that some sort of syringe will make it better.
Yes looked at the reservoir and thought the same. Not too bad...To get to the reservoir remove the black plastic triangular side cover and find the access hole to remove the one screw holding the reservoir. It will drop down to the point where removing the buddy peg bracket will expose the reservoir. The swept "hump" covers the lower bracket bolt which makes removing the bracket a PITA. If your bracket bolts are fully exposed its not too bad to deal with.
FTR: I have a Spiegler rear brake line (from extending the controls forward) which had firmed up the rear brake feel nicely. With the pressure switch in there the feel softened a lot. It now takes a good stomp to lock it up. My pedal travel is probably twice what it was before the pressure switch. Makes sense if you think about it. I would not advise using the pressure switch in combo with the softer stock brake lines.
I think you may have something there. Some slight softness would be expected to "press the switch" but not doubling the pedal travel.At the moment I'm thinking you still have some air in your line. That's the only way I've ever had a soft pedal but again I haven't done the actual job yet.
Problems with their online search. Can you list the part #?Thanks to the OP, I bought a switch from JPCycles and installed today. Also cut the other junk off. Had a beatch of a time trying to bleed brakes. Finally got on the internet and read up on some bleeding technics. Tried the Syringe method of bleeding from rear caliper bleed screw back to the reservoir and first try had it done. You can pick up a 20ml syringe at a Tractor Supply and hook small 1/4" clear vinyl tubing unto bleed screw. Loosen screw and push fluid direct to reservoir. 30 seconds later I got a hard pedal again. (Make sure you clear syringe and tube of any air before hooking on bleed screw)
The nicest thing about the backfill method is that there is no pumping brake. Just open bleeder once, push fluid threw till you see reservoir fill to level and then close bleeder. I did near empty my reservoir by trying to pump bleed my brakes with pedal ahead of time though.I bled my brake again today - the PITA way. Spilled brake fluid and cursed up a storm for five minutes. The syringe sounds like a neat trick.
Got rid of the soft pedal at least.