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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installed a pressure switch on the rear master cylinder and cut off all that mechanical brake light switch malarkey.

Before:


After:


The switch:


Really cleans up the look!
 

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AWESOME!!!!! I have been looking for a way to get around this(especially when I install the forward controls; horn is already gone). Thank you so much.

BTW, can you list the part number and where you got it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got it off eBay for $7 shipped from china. They have a wide selection of different styles. I got one like this as I liked the 90 deg. boot: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Press...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d5e8f4e1&vxp=mtr

I had to clip off their connector and put in my own bullet connectors, and then do the same with the stock light switch harness. Toughest part is bleeding the brakes: the swept pipes seem to be in the way of everything. Getting to the fluid reservoir is a PITA. Getting to the bleed valve is a PITA. I found that removing the lower wheel cylinder bolt let the cylinder swing down making access to the bleed valve a lot easier.
 

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Got it off eBay for $7 shipped from china. They have a wide selection of different styles. I got one like this as I liked the 90 deg. boot: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Press...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d5e8f4e1&vxp=mtr

I had to clip off their connector and put in my own bullet connectors, and then do the same with the stock light switch harness. Toughest part is bleeding the brakes: the swept pipes seem to be in the way of everything. Getting to the fluid reservoir is a PITA. Getting to the bleed valve is a PITA. I found that removing the lower wheel cylinder bolt let the cylinder swing down making access to the bleed valve a lot easier.
Thanks again. Part of the job is easier for me because I have the Cobra slip-on. Have to check in the morning how to get at the reservoir but hoping not too bad or that some sort of syringe will make it better.
All in all though a very worthwhile project since the whole rear brake/horn thing looked shoddy from the factory. Yamaha just didn't do some things as clean on the Stryker as the Raider IMHO. I mean how much would have this change cost them...
Right now the way they have it is like having a 3rd breast and once the uniqueness wears off it's just fugly :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Have to check in the morning how to get at the reservoir but hoping not too bad or that some sort of syringe will make it better.
To get to the reservoir remove the black plastic triangular side cover and find the access hole to remove the one screw holding the reservoir. It will drop down to the point where removing the buddy peg bracket will expose the reservoir. The swept "hump" covers the lower bracket bolt which makes removing the bracket a PITA. If your bracket bolts are fully exposed its not too bad to deal with.

FTR: I have a Spiegler rear brake line (from extending the controls forward) which had firmed up the rear brake feel nicely. With the pressure switch in there the feel softened a lot. It now takes a good stomp to lock it up. My pedal travel is probably twice what it was before the pressure switch. Makes sense if you think about it. I would not advise using the pressure switch in combo with the softer stock brake lines.
 

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To get to the reservoir remove the black plastic triangular side cover and find the access hole to remove the one screw holding the reservoir. It will drop down to the point where removing the buddy peg bracket will expose the reservoir. The swept "hump" covers the lower bracket bolt which makes removing the bracket a PITA. If your bracket bolts are fully exposed its not too bad to deal with.

FTR: I have a Spiegler rear brake line (from extending the controls forward) which had firmed up the rear brake feel nicely. With the pressure switch in there the feel softened a lot. It now takes a good stomp to lock it up. My pedal travel is probably twice what it was before the pressure switch. Makes sense if you think about it. I would not advise using the pressure switch in combo with the softer stock brake lines.
Yes looked at the reservoir and thought the same. Not too bad...

As for the loss in pedal feel I don't see the connection since it looks like a very small area is added for the switch. But until I have the part in my hand and installed I won't know for sure. And parts could vary in their effectiveness and engineering.
At the moment I'm thinking you still have some air in your line. That's the only way I've ever had a soft pedal but again I haven't done the actual job yet.

Sadly I'm thinking all my mods have to wait till spring because all the ones left take a fair amount of time and other fall chores await. Hard to do but better plan is to just take her apart in the spring and book multiple days to get everything done all at once.
Plus then on any given day that is good for riding I can squeak in another "last" ride!!
 

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I ordered a switch from JPCycles. I'm thinking you have a little air yet also. Last time I had rear line loose and tried to bleed it myself- I could not get a good pedal. Took to dealer and they worked 20 minutes to get it. Said they can be a bear sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
At the moment I'm thinking you still have some air in your line. That's the only way I've ever had a soft pedal but again I haven't done the actual job yet.
I think you may have something there. Some slight softness would be expected to "press the switch" but not doubling the pedal travel.

BTW, is that an XS650 in your Avatar?
 

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Thanks to the OP, I bought a switch from JPCycles and installed today. Also cut the other junk off. Had a beatch of a time trying to bleed brakes. Finally got on the internet and read up on some bleeding technics. Tried the Syringe method of bleeding from rear caliper bleed screw back to the reservoir and first try had it done. You can pick up a 20ml syringe at a Tractor Supply and hook small 1/4" clear vinyl tubing unto bleed screw. Loosen screw and push fluid direct to reservoir. 30 seconds later I got a hard pedal again. (Make sure you clear syringe and tube of any air before hooking on bleed screw)
 

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Thanks to the OP, I bought a switch from JPCycles and installed today. Also cut the other junk off. Had a beatch of a time trying to bleed brakes. Finally got on the internet and read up on some bleeding technics. Tried the Syringe method of bleeding from rear caliper bleed screw back to the reservoir and first try had it done. You can pick up a 20ml syringe at a Tractor Supply and hook small 1/4" clear vinyl tubing unto bleed screw. Loosen screw and push fluid direct to reservoir. 30 seconds later I got a hard pedal again. (Make sure you clear syringe and tube of any air before hooking on bleed screw)
Problems with their online search. Can you list the part #?
 

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Hey Billy- here ya is - Goodrich 561-787 The rubber boot you have to buy separate from the switch. Switch does come with new crush washers even though description does not mention it. I bought crush washers also and then found they 2 were in package with switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I bled my brake again today - the PITA way. Spilled brake fluid and cursed up a storm for five minutes. The syringe sounds like a neat trick.

Got rid of the soft pedal at least.
 

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I bled my brake again today - the PITA way. Spilled brake fluid and cursed up a storm for five minutes. The syringe sounds like a neat trick.

Got rid of the soft pedal at least.
The nicest thing about the backfill method is that there is no pumping brake. Just open bleeder once, push fluid threw till you see reservoir fill to level and then close bleeder. I did near empty my reservoir by trying to pump bleed my brakes with pedal ahead of time though.
 
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