Rear Shock Adjustment

44256 Views 75 Replies 28 Participants Last post by gerdawg, May 27, 2017

canyon1

Discussion Starter · Apr 12, 2012

For those of you who have not figured out how to adjust the rear shock yet, here's how I did it and it's very easy.
Remove the upper belt guard and you have a clear shot to the adjustment holes. Using your adjustment tool (the dealer gave you one with the bike, didn't he?) insert it into the holes with the handle extension in place. I used a wood chisel inserted in the extension handle for additional leverage. Push away from you to soften the shock and pull toward you to stiffen the shock. If you want to stiffen it, it may help to jack up the rear wheel to take some of the load off it. The dealer where I bought it couldn't figure out how to do it. He said to bring it back when I needed a new rear tire and they could adjust it for me then. I guess they were just not familiar with the Stryker. Livin' & Learnin'.

41 - 60 of 76 Posts

SmokenJoe

· #41 · Sep 20, 2012

Nogard said:
If i do not have a jack, can i get this done? The dealership wants to charge me 50+ to give it a try.

Yes.................I pulled right side cover and lower cover under it. Reach in and adjust. Put a small pipe on the wrench.

nogard

· #42 · Sep 20, 2012

SmokenJOE said:
Nogard said:

If i do not have a jack, can i get this done? The dealership wants to charge me 50+ to give it a try.

Click to expand...

Yes.................I pulled right side cover and lower cover under it. Reach in and adjust. Put a small pipe on the wrench.

I did the same thing a month ago, and the wrench would not budge. I may try to use a hammer this time.

SmokenJoe

· #43 · Sep 20, 2012

Nogard said:
SmokenJOE said:

Nogard said:

If i do not have a jack, can i get this done? The dealership wants to charge me 50+ to give it a try.

Click to expand...

Yes.................I pulled right side cover and lower cover under it. Reach in and adjust. Put a small pipe on the wrench.

Click to expand...

I did the same thing a month ago, and the wrench would not budge. I may try to use a hammer this time.

Small pipe works better. More control.

nogard

· #44 · Sep 20, 2012

So if i'm on the right side and take off both side panels(real easy). I just put the supplied tool and bar attachment into a notch and turn it Right to tighten, or Left to Loosen?

Tried probably 20 mins a month ago, and the thing wouldn't budge. We'll see how it goes once my pipes cool off here in about an hour.

toby

· #45 · Sep 20, 2012

No hammer. It's really easy to loosen it but is a bit hard to turn to tighten it if you don't take some weight of the spring. I did mine from the left side to tighten it. I remove the upper belt guard and jacked the bike up a little. Put a pipe on the end of the provided tool for leverage and pulled toward me. Went from #1 to #7. A couple turns would not click all the way with one pull because it ran out of room, so I had to re adjust the bite on the tool. It was impossible to turn with the full weight of the bike on the shock.

nogard

· #46 · Sep 20, 2012

Toby said:
No hammer. It's really easy to loosen it but is a bit hard to turn to tighten it if you don't take some weight of the spring. I did mine from the left side to tighten it. I remove the upper belt guard and jacked the bike up a little. Put a pipe on the end of the provided tool for leverage and pulled toward me. Went from #1 to #7. A couple turns would not click all the way with one pull because it ran out of room, so I had to re adjust the bite on the tool. It was impossible to turn with the full weight of the bike on the shock.

This is what i'm thinking is going to be the case. I may just go to Seers and buy the motorcycle jack.

toby

· #47 · Sep 20, 2012

Nogard said:
Toby said:

No hammer. It's really easy to loosen it but is a bit hard to turn to tighten it if you don't take some weight of the spring. I did mine from the left side to tighten it. I remove the upper belt guard and jacked the bike up a little. Put a pipe on the end of the provided tool for leverage and pulled toward me. Went from #1 to #7. A couple turns would not click all the way with one pull because it ran out of room, so I had to re adjust the bite on the tool. It was impossible to turn with the full weight of the bike on the shock.

Click to expand...

This is what i'm thinking is going to be the case. I may just go to Seers and buy the motorcycle jack.

You can use a floor jack under the muffler mount. Then put a 4 by 4 or more under the center cross member of the frame and pull the bike up flat onto that . That's what I do to change the oil too.

BillyD66

· #48 · Sep 20, 2012

Nogard said:
Toby said:

No hammer. It's really easy to loosen it but is a bit hard to turn to tighten it if you don't take some weight of the spring. I did mine from the left side to tighten it. I remove the upper belt guard and jacked the bike up a little. Put a pipe on the end of the provided tool for leverage and pulled toward me. Went from #1 to #7. A couple turns would not click all the way with one pull because it ran out of room, so I had to re adjust the bite on the tool. It was impossible to turn with the full weight of the bike on the shock.

Click to expand...

This is what i'm thinking is going to be the case. I may just go to Seers and buy the motorcycle jack.

Nogard,
Just did mine the other day, tightened it, and didn't need jack etc. but that certainly might make the job easier. Make sure if you jack it up you have it strapped down tight since if it is tough to turn you'll be applying a fair amount of pressure.
Thoughts and procedure(sorry for the long post):
- My bike is new(less than 2 months old so might be easier to move than one that has been ridden more/older
- No lowering links or other suspension mods. If you have those they'll make the job much harder if they are compressing the spring
- Try squirting some sort of lubricant (WD40, liquid wrench etc.) on the collar to get rid of some of the built up gunk. You could also tap it with a hammer and long screw driver at a few points to break the seal like a jar of pickles
- I got access by removing the upper belt guard and going though that side(mentioned earlier in this post or another). The wrench just clears the stock 210 tire but gives you good leverage. You put the wrench in and feel for a good engagement point that is just slightly past midway on the rear tire. Then you'll have nice leverage to move it a notch at a time. This will make more sense once you put the spanner wrench in there.
- BTW, This approach works with the supplied Yamaha spanner wrench that comes w/ the bike and in 2 pieces. Other spanner wrenches might be too long/short
- To see the notches etc. you have to remove the muffler side small black cover that is just above the O2 sensor. Even then counting the notches requires you to get down on all fours like a friggin dog

Thanks Yamaha! And while I'm bitching they could have numbered or lettered them as well since seeing all the notches and counting them isn't very easy.
- Even on the jack, if you have the option of someone steadying the bike that would be great. Lord knows if it starts tipping you aren't going to stop it from the position you'll be at/in

- Oh yea almost forgot one last piece of advice: For stuck bolts etc. sometimes it's easier to go the other way first to get the whole thing to loosen up. In other words, loosen the shock first(which in theory should be a little easier anyway) and then tighten it once the mechanism is moving like it is supposed to. Best of luck.

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3c's stryker

· #49 · Feb 2, 2014

Nogard said:
This is what i'm thinking is going to be the case. I may just go to Seers and buy the motorcycle jack.

Need help man, once I take the two covers off the side of the bike. Which way do I need to turn the spanner to tighten the shock for a higher ride.. and cover turn equals what in weight or height.. help leave for a ride in two hours

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3c's stryker

· #50 · Feb 2, 2014

i tried what at everyone said and there is no way, that you can just take off the o2 sensor, and the belt cover. there so no way to get spanner where you need it to hook up to.. i do have the 240 tire, i did see where a few members stated that the size of the tire would make a little of a challenge to do. but that was really not the problem. to be able to make the adjustments as need you need to remove the battery box and at that point there's where you would be able to make the right adjustments.. just remember those members with the power commander, once you remove the battery box out the thus means you had to disconnect the battery to get the box out, the maps will be loss, and then you need to remap.. i tried over an hour to get the spanner to lock up. and i had a no go on the adjustment. so, i will be taking the bike to the dealer to have the right ride set. // but, again if someone would make a you tube video for this i would watch it over and over.. i am trying learn this bike cause up in the Atlanta the dealer love to charge out the a$$!!!!!!

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mikoloe

· #51 · Feb 2, 2014

3c's stryker said:
i tried what at everyone said and there is no way, that you can just take off the o2 sensor, and the belt cover. there so no way to get spanner where you need it to hook up to.. i do have the 240 tire, i did see where a few members stated that the size of the tire would make a little of a challenge to do. but that was really not the problem. to be able to make the adjustments as need you need to remove the battery box and at that point there's where you would be able to make the right adjustments.. just remember those members with the power commander, once you remove the battery box out the thus means you had to disconnect the battery to get the box out, the maps will be loss, and then you need to remap.. i tried over an hour to get the spanner to lock up. and i had a no go on the adjustment. so, i will be taking the bike to the dealer to have the right ride set. // but, again if someone would make a you tube video for this i would watch it over and over.. i am trying learn this bike cause up in the Atlanta the dealer love to charge out the a$$!!!!!!

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you have to try my way, first get a 12 pack and start drinkin..

2. Save your maps to your laptop....yes that is a good Idea. You can save several maps and change them out whenever. next.......ahhhhh what was the question?

raulgarzajr.1311

· #52 · Feb 2, 2014

The question was, how many beers before you start?

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Cwhethamrc

· #53 · Feb 2, 2014

Good Rule of thumb: Pre drink 1 for every 15 minutes of planned job, and maintain that during the job.

So 2 hour job = 8 beers before you start, and 8 during. So minimum of 16. Then factor in celebration beers after successful completion.

mikoloe

· #54 · Feb 2, 2014

raulgarzajr.1311 said:
The question was, how many beers before you start?

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Before you start? oh yeah , you have to go to 711 to buy your beer and don't forget to tell the Asian cashier how pretty she is.

FYI-Make sure the COPS aren't there before you get off your bike. They are there to do the same thing.

3c's stryker

· #55 · Feb 2, 2014

crown and coke only, not beer!!!!!

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mikoloe

· #56 · Feb 3, 2014

3c's stryker said:
crown and coke only, not beer!!!!!

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right on right on, there will be plenty of time to change up your choice of drink then come back to a full circle...

What? A perfect circle? That is one show I wont miss.

impact blue

· #57 · Aug 27, 2014

So what's the deal with this random piece of metal making things harder than it needs to be? I took off the panel on the other side and it's currently set to 4. If I move it one click will that be a noticeable difference? Also, one last rather stupid question. Should the tool have the hook on the left or right? Also, from the belt side of the bike, I assume that I'm pulling to the front of the bike to tighten? Any advice? I see the question multiple times but no straight answer.

Or

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impact blue

· #58 · Aug 27, 2014

Scratch the tool orientation. I see that depends on the direction you plan on going. So I just need to know - to the front to tighten, to the rear to loosen?

I need to tighten so I'll jack it up. I'll probably use a pipe too depending on the level of difficulty.

Rainami

· #59 · Aug 27, 2014

silverridge08 said:
immortal13, If your standing on the left side of the bike where the drive belt is, pushing towards the front of the bike stiffens the preload and pulling towards the rear tire softens the preload. If you go to the other side of the bike and peek through you can see the notch where the adjustment rides on.

Here you go. You will want to go towards the front of the bike.

impact blue

· #60 · Aug 27, 2014

Thanks. I got it done. Didn't know how much it should have been adjusted so I did a click and took it or a spin, didn't notice a difference so I went all the way and it feels good now. About half my riding is done with a passenger so this should make a huge difference I'm hoping.

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