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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've found the threads on how to remove the rear tire but I'm really looking for a video if there is one around. Googleverse was not able to find one but there is a very detailed video of a Raider... how similar is the Raider rear tire removal to the Stryker?
 

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The raider is probably pretty close. What video did you find that shows you?

I've had my rear wheel off enough times now that it's not a big deal. As long as the nut is on the exhaust side, there's nothing to it. Getting that stupid spacer back in place is the hardest part. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The raider is probably pretty close. What video did you find that shows you?



I've had my rear wheel off enough times now that it's not a big deal. As long as the nut is on the exhaust side, there's nothing to it. Getting that stupid spacer back in place is the hardest part. :)




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That's the one I figured you saw.

So as long as your rear axle nut is on the right hand side (exhaust side) there should be no need to do anything the with exhaust. Just put a wrench on that nut and loosen the bolt from the other side. Loosen the left side tensioner to give yourself enough slack to remove the belt. Then play with the jack to get the weight off of the rear tire and work the rear axle out and remove the belt and pull out the tire. The spacer on the brake caliper side will fall out. Remember where it goes to make your life easier. :) And you might have to jack the rear end up more to get the tire to come out from the rear fender and all that crap on the back for the license plate.

And installation is the reverse...and more difficult because you have to hold everything in place while you line it all up. Having a helper isn't a bad thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's the one I figured you saw.

So as long as your rear axle nut is on the right hand side (exhaust side) there should be no need to do anything the with exhaust. Just put a wrench on that nut and loosen the bolt from the other side. Loosen the left side tensioner to give yourself enough slack to remove the belt. Then play with the jack to get the weight off of the rear tire and work the rear axle out and remove the belt and pull out the tire. The spacer on the brake caliper side will fall out. Remember where it goes to make your life easier. :) And you might have to jack the rear end up more to get the tire to come out from the rear fender and all that crap on the back for the license plate.

And installation is the reverse...and more difficult because you have to hold everything in place while you line it all up. Having a helper isn't a bad thing.

Sounds like it will be easier to just pay the $100 to get the tire swapped at the shop.
 

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That's the one I figured you saw.

So as long as your rear axle nut is on the right hand side (exhaust side) there should be no need to do anything the with exhaust. Just put a wrench on that nut and loosen the bolt from the other side. Loosen the left side tensioner to give yourself enough slack to remove the belt. Then play with the jack to get the weight off of the rear tire and work the rear axle out and remove the belt and pull out the tire. The spacer on the brake caliper side will fall out. Remember where it goes to make your life easier. :) And you might have to jack the rear end up more to get the tire to come out from the rear fender and all that crap on the back for the license plate.

And installation is the reverse...and more difficult because you have to hold everything in place while you line it all up. Having a helper isn't a bad thing.
I'm going to attempt removing the rear tire this weekend. I watched the video and the only part that I'd like to skip is removing my exhaust since it's a cobra swept and it doesn't separate like the stock one.
My question is, can you still tighten the axle bolt to the proper spec when you're reassembling if you use a torque wrench on the bolt (left) side of the bike instead of the nut side (exhaust side) since the exhaust will be in the way?
 

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General rule if you need to torque the bolt instead of the nut is to add 10%. The maintenance manual calls for 110 ft-lbs on the axle nut so it would be 121 ft-lbs on the bolt head.
 
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