There is a pretty good YouTube video on the basics of stalling the SlipStreamer
. The only thing I thought was missing were placement pictures. So to spare other Strykers the pain I went through I figured I'd post them here at least to give you an idea for where to place the claps and rod directions.
Lower rods from the front of the bike. Notice the rods\barrels are coming from the inside of the triple tree. I positioned the lower clamps about an inch from the top of the post.
I am replacing my headlight, so here is an older picture. I will update once I install the new headlight. Anyone doing this install is after the 'stealth' part.
Great group of pics. I've been thinking about ordering the ss-20 as well. I like the look of it but the big question is are you happy with its performance.
That is a good question! I have no other point of reference other than the bullet cowl I had on there before. I will put it like this way, at 90 mph I don't feel like I'm in a bubble but I don't feel like I'm about to be blown off the bike like I did with the cowl. I adjusted it and put it higher but I won't have an opportunity to test again for a couple of weeks. I will report back then.
Great group of pics. I've been thinking about ordering the ss-20 as well. I like the look of it but the big question is are you happy with its performance.
I feel like it performs better than the batwing fairing but I'm keeping the batwing for looks over function...:suspicious:
After I painted mine(on the inside) I was much happier with the look and people would ask me all the time where they could find the same "batwing". If it did not have the gnarly gap I would still be rocking it. I ended up putting my tool bag in the gap but it was still funky looking.
I feel like it performs better than the batwing fairing but I'm keeping the batwing for looks over function...:suspicious:
After I painted mine(on the inside) I was much happier with the look and people would ask me all the time where they could find the same "batwing". If it did not have the gnarly gap I would still be rocking it. I ended up putting my tool bag in the gap but it was still funky looking.
Yes, it's on the inside. First layer is metallic flake, covered that in white plasti-dip and then used chrome pinstripe on the outside to cover the line between painted/clear to give it a more finished look.
When you paint the inside you get a really great clearcoat effect from the shiny plastic.
Found a better pic, you can see that giant gap...it was killing me to look at.
With the help of Roger on this board I removed the dust cover on the rear disc. Only took about 30 min to complete and very easy. All you need is a dremel tool, 1 1/2 inch metal cutting disc and some wooden wedges. You will also need six washers to put on the screws you remove before putting...
For my first trick... I mean post..... I'll be writing up a brief quick tip guide for the Power Commander V Autotune on a bike with the stock exhaust set up. This will include everything I could remember from the install that I wish I'd explicitly known before hand.
There are plenty of threads...
I am looking for anyone that has replaced the clutch plates on their Stryker. I have a 2011 Stryker with 45k. No issues as of yet but with Yamaha not making the Stryker any longer I am worried about parts and their availability later. I was thinking of getting new clutch plates and replacing...
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