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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi fellas, I'm relatively new to this forum, a proud owner of 2013 Raven. Obviously the mod bug has bitten me and the next on the list is VH big radius 2x2. So after getting opinions from some of you on my previous post, My mind was set on VH, PCV combo, which I was gonna get dynoed.

But after chatting with a service guy at my Yammy dealership, he told me that the stock ECU is programmable and he will be able to tune it based on CO emission readings. He said if I'm only concerned about chugging and decel popping, stock ECU tune will be sufficient. He acknowledged that it won't be the optimum performance setting but good enough.

How much truth is there in this? And if it's true, why are we all spending money on expensive FIs and tuners? Please ignore my ignorance. I'm new to the cruiser world. Just FYI, I also have a 2011 Kawi ZX14 dynoed with PCV. Makes me wonder now....:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
He is right, it is programmable... Where are you at? I would like to mess around with the settings on your ECU rather than to guess on mine.
I'm in Toronto, Canada. And I don't understand the rest of your comment. You would like to set mine but not your own?....lol. What setup are you running? Are you happy with it?

I was just wondering if ppl know this and if anyone has tried to tune the stock ECU ?
 

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I'm in Toronto, Canada. And I don't understand the rest of your comment. You would like to set mine but not your own?....lol. What setup are you running? Are you happy with it?

I was just wondering if ppl know this bad if anyone have tried to tune the stock ECU ?
There is another member here that found that the stock ECU is programmable, but I don't think anyone has tried it though. If you do this and get positive results please let us know.
 

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There is another member here that found that the stock ECU is programmable, but I don't think anyone has tried it though. If you do this and get positive results please let us know.

Hey, I am that other guy! lol That's what I tell the ladies at the bar!


Maybe you might be the first to see if you can access the diagnostic mode via the digital display to get the error codes.
Here is how you access it. Have not tried this so proceed at your own risk.


1. Press and hold the Reset button
2. Turn ignition to ON and keep holding the Reset until "diag" appears on the LCD (about 5 seconds).
3. Now press and hold Reset and Select buttons at the same time and hold for about 5 seconds until you enter the diagnostics list.
4. Now you can press Select to move up, or Reset to move back through all available code. Among them are throttle position sensor, temperature etc.

01 : Throttle position - must be from 15-17 (closed) to 97-100 (opened)
02 : Atmospheric pressure given in mmHg (normal is 760 - average weather)
03 : Differential pressure between air and intake pipe
05 : Air intake temperature (in Celcius)
06 : Cooling liquid temperature (in Celcius)
07 : Absolute speed (must be 000 in garage). Check with rear weel.
08 : Lean angle safety switch control - must be from 0.4-1.4 (upright) to 3.8-4.2 (horizontal). DISMOUT THE SWITCH FOR CHECKING !!!
09 : Battery voltage - must be above 12.0
20 : Side stand switch - displays ON or OFF
21 : Neutral gear switch - displays ON or OFF


Part II : ECU memory check.


60 : EEPROM error code presence - 00 means no default, 01 or 02 means default on corresponding cylinder (blinks if both cylinders).
61 : Error Code memory log - Displays 00 if no error code in memory, displays the Error Code if any (11 to 50). Display changes every two seconds if more than one Error Code in memory, then start again from first.
62 : Displays the number of Error Code in memory. To clear the memory, switch the Engine Run Switch to ON position (no backup).
70 : Check Code number, display from 0 to 255


Part III : Activators - To activate, turn Engine Run switch from OFF to ON - Engine check light is activated too.
30 : Coil 1 is activated 5 times per second.
31 : Coil 2 is activated 5 times per second.
36 : Injector 1 solenoid is activated 5 times per second.
37 : Injector 2 solenoid is activated 5 times per second.
48 : Air duct solenoid is activated 5 times per second.
49 : Air intake solenoid is activated 5 times per second.
50 : Fuel injection relay is activated 5 times per second.
51 : Cooler fan is activated every 5 seconds.
52 : Headlight relay is activated every 5 seconds (2 seconds ON, 3 seconds OFF) - 2003+ model only.


Error Codes
Error Number 11 : Cylinder identification sensor error - DIAG mode (none)
Error Number 12 : Crankshaft posiiton sensor error - DIAG mode (none)
Error Number 13 : Air intake pressure sensor error - DIAG mode 03
Error Number 14 : Air intake duct error - DIAG mode 03
Error Number 15 : Throttle position sensor error - DIAG mode 01
Error Number 19 : Sidestand sensor error - DIAG mode 20
Error Number 20 : Air pressure sensors error - DIAG mode (none)
Error Number 21 : Coolant temperature sensor error - DIAG mode 06
Error Number 22 : Air intake temperature sensor error - DIAG mode 05
Error Number 23 : Ambient air pressure sensor error - DIAG mode 02
Error Number 24 : O2 (lambda) sensor error - DIAG mode (none)
Error Number 30 : The bike went down - DIAG mode 08
Error Number 33 : Coil 1 open circuit - DIAG mode 30
Error Number 34 : Coil 2 open circuit - DIAG mode 31
Error Number 41 : Tilt sensor error - DIAG mode 08
Error Number 42 : Speed sensor error / Neutral sensor in short-circuit - DIAG mode 07-21
Error Number 43 : Battery voltage control error - DIAG mode (none)
Error Number 44 : EEPROM read/write error - DIAG mode 60
Error Number 50 : ECU memory error - DIAG mode (none)
Error Er-1 : ECU link error
Error Er-2 : ECU link error
Error Er-3 : ECU link error
Error Er-4 : ECU link error


Following ERROR codes DO NOT allow engine to run :
11-12-19-30-41-50 and Er-1 to Er-4


Error code 11 allow engine to continue running only if fault appears after engine start.
Image
 

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Seems like part III is where the magic happens. I'll do some research on this keep ya'll posted. Meanwhile if anyone has already figured this out, please help.

Your welcome and good luck. Please keep us posted... Maybe you can find the setting that eliminates the chugging.
 

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I talked with one of Stratoliner riders that added a different exhaust. Lots of decel popping and backfireing. She went to dealer and they said they increased the fuel ratio by 5% through out the sequence. I asked him how they did that and she said it was a Yami tech in the back room that adjusted it. I keep trying to find out what, where, and how...................but nada.
SO, I think it is possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I talked with one of Stratoliner riders that added a different exhaust. Lots of decel popping and backfireing. She went to dealer and they said they increased the fuel ratio by 5% through out the sequence. I asked him how they did that and she said it was a Yami tech in the back room that adjusted it. I keep trying to find out what, where, and how...................but nada.
SO, I think it is possible.
The Yammy tech has quoted me 3 hrs of labour to do the setup which brings me close to PCV+dyno cost anyway. I'm very very confused as to which way to go......lol. Low and Mean's website says you don't even need a FI if you keep the stock air intake with VH big radius but I find that hard to believe.
 

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I'm running a Cobra Slip-On and stock filter and NO programer........Runs like a scalded cat.
Try it before you spend your $$$$$$$$$$$$. Then decide if you need it. JMHO
 

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Why do people insist on spending big money on PC5/dyno time or Cobra auto tune. My EJK tuner was $175 and works great. If I change something I can always press a few buttons. All good.

Sent from my Nexus 4
that is the same reason i went with the cobra fi2000r only 190 new and 3 small knobs to turn works great but iam also running the LA chopper XXX big air intake
 

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How do you tune an EJK tuner? I read their website and it says the stock setting should work but it can be tuned further by playing around with LED's on it. Sounded a bit of trial n error approach whereas dyno/PCV will give you an exact map with a graph to back it up.

I don't have the EJK tuner, I went the expensive route. That is the PCV, wide-band Auto-tuner and a dyno top that off. I would not recommend going this route unless you are a turbine head (sp) lol.
 

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If you have the stock air then try unplugging the O2 sensor when you get V&H. That is what I did when I put on me V&H Twins and also installed a wide band sensor with A/F gauge. It is dialed right in and runs great.
 

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Maybe you might be the first to see if you can access the diagnostic mode via the digital display to get the error codes.
Here is how you access it. Have not tried this so proceed at your own risk.


1. Press and hold the Reset AND SELECT button
I had a few minutes to try it out and came up with this change, I didnt see how to access the tuning part, you can cycle through trouble codes and such, but no changes yet. i would imagine if the injector cycle rate was changed then you would change how much fuel was put into the cylinders at a time (to richen youd increase the cycle rates, to lean out decrease). the timing i would think it works the same way, increase coil activation to increase the timing ect..

note: i would think youd have to access the tuning perameters through the access port on under the side cover, the dealer probably has the plugs for this (hint for the guys that find the plugs for the 02 sensor mods) then it would have to be with some sort of program to change these settings.. that would be interesting for someone to write the program for this, it would be a huge breakthrough for us at home mechanics, dyno'ing would still be necessary to get it tuned right but not spending the money on a piggyback tuner would offset the cost also.
 

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I had a few minutes to try it out and came up with this change, I didnt see how to access the tuning part, you can cycle through trouble codes and such, but no changes yet. i would imagine if the injector cycle rate was changed then you would change how much fuel was put into the cylinders at a time (to richen youd increase the cycle rates, to lean out decrease). the timing i would think it works the same way, increase coil activation to increase the timing ect..

note: i would think youd have to access the tuning perameters through the access port on under the side cover, the dealer probably has the plugs for this (hint for the guys that find the plugs for the 02 sensor mods) then it would have to be with some sort of program to change these settings.. that would be interesting for someone to write the program for this, it would be a huge breakthrough for us at home mechanics, dyno'ing would still be necessary to get it tuned right but not spending the money on a piggyback tuner would offset the cost also.
There are a few videos on you-tube that show you how to access it with your laptop.
 
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