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Stripped drive pully/Output shaft

1701 Views 9 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Jamiehays
Hey everyone. So I was riding yesterday and started hearing a bad grinding noise. When I pulled in the clutch and shifted into neutral it was still there. I ended up having it towed home and started investigating. Basically the nut that holds the front drive pulley on came loose somehow and the pulley started wiggling off the output shaft and totally ground down the splines on the pulley and output shaft. It's pretty bad... So called a local dealer and they said it would be over $2,000 to fix this the correct way. They have to remove the engine and transmission and open the case just to get the shaft out. So I am going to try and ghetto rig this instead. I am looking for a new pulley... I know a lot of you have swapped out to the 30 tooth instead and was wondering if anyone had the original laying around they would sell/part with. Any help or suggestions on what to do here would be greatly appreciated. Automotive tire Gas Cylinder Engineering Auto part
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Wow, that is toast, rigging it in my opinion isn’t smart. You could get a complete used motor for half that cost!
I know this was a big problem on the Road Star's and I checked mine every year. I didn't know this was an issue on the Stryker, although yours is the first I've heard of I will probably check mine before spring. Thanks for bringing this to our attention.
Never heard of this - something for me to check into as well.
There are tabs that you must bend, to prevent the nut from loosening, also installing the conical washer properly prevents this from happening

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Thank for the replies guys. [B]preacherman[/B], This nut is from the factory, I dont think I've ever looked at it, let alone messed with it. Not sure how it came loose.
Wow, sorry!! IMO, there isn't enough teeth left on the shaft to make a new pulley a possibility. If there was at least 50% left, I'd say worth a shot but the way it is now I'd bet they'd shear off the minute you got on it going up a bigger hill... :(
One jury rig possibility would be to drill through the whole assembly and use something like a selloc(sp??) pin. That would require really precise drilling best done by a machine shop who more than likely won't touch this. Still, I'd hate to rely on this either since to handle the stress you'd have to drill a good sized hole for a bigger pin and in the process weakening the shaft. If it is a total loss, welding is a possibility but again...

I guess my point is that riding a motorcycle will always have some inherent dangers. I accept those and try to minimize/mitigate them as much as possible. A jury rig fix here would really be a 180 there IMO.
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Thank for the replies guys. [B]preacherman[/B], This nut is from the factory, I dont think I've ever looked at it, let alone messed with it. Not sure how it came loose.
Sorry to hear that. It came loose because the lock tabs were not properly crimped or broken the tabs- IMO.
Hey everyone. So I was riding yesterday and started hearing a bad grinding noise. When I pulled in the clutch and shifted into neutral it was still there. I ended up having it towed home and started investigating. Basically the nut that holds the front drive pulley on came loose somehow and the pulley started wiggling off the output shaft and totally ground down the splines on the pulley and output shaft. It's pretty bad... So called a local dealer and they said it would be over $2,000 to fix this the correct way. They have to remove the engine and transmission and open the case just to get the shaft out. So I am going to try and ghetto rig this instead. I am looking for a new pulley... I know a lot of you have swapped out to the 30 tooth instead and was wondering if anyone had the original laying around they would sell/part with. Any help or suggestions on what to do here would be greatly appreciated. View attachment 123996 View attachment 123998
Another thing I've learned is, the factory was notorious for sendin these bikes out of the factory with the drive belt tension way too tight. This too will cause that bearing to fail. Even the manual you get with the bike belt tension recommend is on the tight side. I been running mine at 10 to 12 mm deflection @ 10lbs of pressure. Seems to be the general consensus in all the Yamaha forums I'm involved in. It's quite possible this could have been the originating cause of your bearing failure.
I'm constantly checking in on my belt tension...🏍✌
Hey everyone. So I was riding yesterday and started hearing a bad grinding noise. When I pulled in the clutch and shifted into neutral it was still there. I ended up having it towed home and started investigating. Basically the nut that holds the front drive pulley on came loose somehow and the pulley started wiggling off the output shaft and totally ground down the splines on the pulley and output shaft. It's pretty bad... So called a local dealer and they said it would be over $2,000 to fix this the correct way. They have to remove the engine and transmission and open the case just to get the shaft out. So I am going to try and ghetto rig this instead. I am looking for a new pulley... I know a lot of you have swapped out to the 30 tooth instead and was wondering if anyone had the original laying around they would sell/part with. Any help or suggestions on what to do here would be greatly appreciated. View attachment 123996 View attachment 123998
No ghetto rigging is going to fix that. New shaft or scrap the bike. Welding on that shaft to try to build back up the splines as it sits will create more problems. You are sitting on thousands of dollars worth of parts. Part it out, buy another one.
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